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10R80 Owners - ULTIMATE M6G 10R80 Facts + Resolutions to harsh or no shift conditions

Rodpwnz

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I just recently bought a 2019 ford mustang gt premium and coming from 3 dodge challengers scat packs/srt/Se
I knew something was wrong with the transmission hard shift in any drive setting right away so I took it in the dealership today and was updated with a software update and it’s a worlds difference in driving!!! Thank you guys at this forum for all the information given!
Just FYI, I feel that the trans drives much better after reset and before the adaptive learning takes place. I wish I knew how many miles till adaptive kicks in, but maybe update us in a few hundred miles.
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Strokerswild

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So I had the exhaust side VCT solenoid replaced and it seemed to fix all of my shift issues.
All four of the VCT solenoids were replaced on my F150, but my shift woes remain....

Just FYI, I feel that the trans drives much better after reset and before the adaptive learning takes place. I wish I knew how many miles till adaptive kicks in, but maybe update us in a few hundred miles.
Is there a way to do the reset at home?
 

cocopanda

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All four of the VCT solenoids were replaced on my F150, but my shift woes remain....



Is there a way to do the reset at home?
Have you had them add an extra half a quart of oil? Originally, I had them check my fluid and found it was about half a quart low and that seemed to fix my stutter and no shift issues. But the solenoid replacement turned the engine into an entirely different driving experience when it was replaced. Have a look at your dipstick if you know where to get at it on the 10R80.
 

Strokerswild

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Have you had them add an extra half a quart of oil? Originally, I had them check my fluid and found it was about half a quart low and that seemed to fix my stutter and no shift issues. But the solenoid replacement turned the engine into an entirely different driving experience when it was replaced. Have a look at your dipstick if you know where to get at it on the 10R80.
No trans fluid has been added to my knowledge. I mentioned the crap shifting one of the first times the truck was at the dealer for an unscheduled visit for another issue, but there was no mention of them checking or adding any fluid on the paperwork. As I understand it, the markings on the stick are somewhat cryptic as to when they're actually full, but the thing acts like it's low on fluid to me when it's cold so I should just crawl under there and dump in a half quart when things are cool (cat is right next to the fill port).

A curse on whomever at Ford that decided not to put a conventional f*cking dipstick on these things so a person can perform basic checks....

I hear you on the solenoids though, my truck idled rough and eventually started stalling at stoplights. All solved with a new set of solenoids, which I hope doesn't recur. Didn't affect shifting though. The truck doesn't even have 30K on it, and I have real reservations about keeping it.
 

gone_n_60

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General to Folks on this thread as I can't read everything. Any talk here about the big Class Action Lawsuit that appears to be proceeding related to this transmission, 10R80?
 

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Buldawg76

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A curse on whomever at Ford that decided not to put a conventional f*cking dipstick on these things so a person can perform basic checks....
Absolutely agree 1000%, they need to be hung by the gonads till they fall off IMO.

'10-19 Ford F150 Locking Transmission Dipstick (sdhqoffroad.com)

22200 B&M Locking Automatic Transmission Dipstick & Tube - Billet Aluminum/Stainless Steel Braided - JEGS

There are ones for the F-150 and could be used for mustang although it will be longer than needed and way overpriced.

I made my own dipstick using an engine oil dipstick from an ecoboost. See posts 1044,1048 and 1053 for descriptions and pics.
BD
 

rickytan05

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So far everything checks out perfect I figured out what was causing my shudder/shake issue
My intake map sensor was dirty so I took a clean microfiber towel and wiped it while unplugged.Now the car shifts and ride so smooth now!!!

IMG_0019.jpeg
 

Flyhalf

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Good morning. I need your help. 🙂please take 1 min to read this.
Story:
Racecar only.
On april Was testing for wheel 2 wheel racing
After 20min oem clutches started to slip .
as you know i have a bypass and the temps were 180f.

Brought the car at ford in may.
Authorized the repair
So we changed :
Clutches with after market better clutches
Suncoast extra capacity E and F DRUMS with one extra clutch

Raytek Spring kit in the valve body and my bypass. and some other minor stuff. (Solenoid Holding clips main pressure reg )
New oem converter.

Got car back. With full throttle big vibration/shaking around 3k and clearly no all power was trasmitted to the wheels.
Happens All gears.
We data log and we so oscillations on the torque converter.
We disengage the lockup clutch of the converter (the clutch that locks transmission to the input shaft) and problem went away. So main suspect was converter

So we proceed by steps.
1. Remove the modified valve body. And install an oem one because .Problem still there
2. Change converter with a new one and re install the modify valve body. But problem still there

I thought maybe some engine problem but why when disengage the lockup clutch the problem goes away?

Could a bad installation of the extra clutches create this?
Anyone installed that kit and had issues?


before ditching my 5th rebuild and going DCT...(a story for another day) Id like to understand what's going on.
Thanks guys if you can contribute

PFA

PXL_20231103_225242576.jpg
Good Morning guys. I forgot to give you an update on this.
Summary . after changing my last transmission under warranty just before the 5years limit,
I started to have strong vibration in full acceleration.
the mods we made were :
ratiotek kit ( not the extreme one)
sun coast extra clutches kit
better clutches
and of course my THERMOSTAT BYPASS
SO I GOT A NEW TRANSMISSION .( with clutches ,thermostat bypass and ratiotek) and nothing problem was still there
So I started to understand it wasn't the trans
well I found the issue.
almost 2 years ago i started to have random misfire. during my national championships i decided to de activate the monitor of misfire to avoid limb mode while racing.
WELL I FORGOT to re activate it. Turned out for 4 of the 8 direct injector were toast or exploded.
i suspect i had this issue since 2021.
any how changed them and the problem is gone.
LONG STORY SHORT . I HAVE 2 TRANSMISSION AND BOTH WORKS LOL.
the key for me was the temperature control. the thermostat bypass has been for me the most important piece. however i would not recommend if the ambient temps you have are really low (freezing low)

I do have now a new possible issue. RIGHT TURNS AT SUSTAIN HIGH G ( 1.7-2G) THE 6TH GEAR START TO SLIP . I will investigate. looks like a pressure issue. need to find out how to increase it . or maybe i'm low in fluid lol

20240302_194922.jpg
 

ArgentumS550

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Newest TSB is #24-2101.
 
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Cobra Jet

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Yep, another 10R80 TSB update (the 10R80 TSB link in 1st post, page 1 of this thread has been updated too).

24-2101 attached
 

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Jstang23

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Once again it looks like cars built after Aug 2022 don't qualify for the TSB. Does anyone know if they fixed the CDF drum issue in August 2022?
 
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Cobra Jet

Cobra Jet

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Once again it looks like cars built after Aug 2022 don't qualify for the TSB. Does anyone know if they fixed the CDF drum issue in August 2022?
Just because a TSB has certain year range on it doesn’t mean it can’t be applied to a model year not listed or a vehicle that was built outside of “xx/xx/xxxx”.

If the car has the same transmission, is having similar drivability issues AND it can be proven/documented via a test drive with a Tech, Shop Foreman OR the Service Writer - then when they do diagnosis the most recent TSB is usually applied….

TSB’s are nothing more than a guidance and “found” solution to what Ford has accumulated as a common or known issue…. It’s not to be taken as a literal “can’t look at a 2022 S550 since it’s not listed in the TSB” type of thing…. There’s been many TSB’s over the years that have been applied as solutions to vehicles not listed by a date range.

Newer TSB’s usually supersede prior TSB’s and that is usually noted right within the TSB as to which one or which series it replaced. Sometimes a new TSB may have similar diagnosis/fix/part listings than a prior BUT there may be a new found issue where that TSB is now “new” and doesn’t supersede any prior related TSB.

If anyone is having difficulties with their 10R80 and it’s still under the 3/36 OR the 5/60 Powertrain Warranty, take it to Ford.

I’ve always recommended when taking it in to Service - DON’T just drop the car and leave. Tell the Service Writer you need to take him/her, a Shop Foreman OR a seasoned Tech on a good test drive to demo the concern. Don’t just do a scripted “around the dealership block” drive at 25mph and within a 5 minute time span. Take it out on the highway and demo the problem at varying speeds when it happens OR varying drive modes OR varying Trans modes - THEN tell the Service Writer, Shop Foreman OR Tech to drive it back so they too can experience the problem (as you tell them when you’re feeling/observing it)….
 

CFrog

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tl:dr - 2020 Mustang GT, 10R80
-slam shifting, stutters, hung shifts, metallic noises from transmission
-in and out of warranty work for 2 years until Transmission replaced Dec 2023
-shifts ok in N + Normal or Wet/Snow
-slam shifts (bad in 2-3/3-4/5-6) in N + Performance modes and S.
-stutter at low rpms.
-returned for service, and transmission issues at 58k miles. Conditions noted, no codes, software is up to date. Car is scheduled for a full warrantied tear down of transmission next week.

I've got a 2020 Mustang GT, purchased new in 2021. Went through two years of in and out with complaints about the transmission. Mine had the classic slam shifting, stutters, sticking, and occasionally pings from under the car. Although my original dealer was good for sales, service department lost me at the 'they all do that'. Fortunately, closer dealer had drastically improved their service department. I worked with them for about 10 months to try to address the problems. At the same time, I filed with Ford directly and had a case number. I was patient, kept notes about specific symptoms, and listened to the mechanic. We worked through lesser warranty fixes until eventually Ford approved replacement of the entire transmission (after a tear down showed that, among other things, the two clutch assemblies were eating each other). Drove the car for the next year. Operating in N and 'Normal' or 'Wet/Snow', the car generally shifted well. In performance modes, or in S, it still slam shifted with the odd hanging revs followed by 'shift-slam', especially in 2-3, 3-4, 4-5. Changes in weather seemed to alleviate some of the harshness. Additionally, I found that a very firm foot on the brake when placing the transmission into gear made a difference in harshness. Recently, I had time to get the car back to the dealer for other service, and noted the symptoms. I was hoping it was a software issue, but it appears to be more than that. No codes are thrown, and the software is current. The issue is clearly present, and now I've got a date to go in for warranty evaluation and a tear down, which I am happy for as they know the car and I'm not dealing with any squirming from Ford or the dealer. This is also good as I was close to the end of the powertrain warranty based on mileage (58k on the odd). Apparently, the stated policy is that work done under warranty is only warrantied to the end of the original powertrain warranty. I was not going to debate that as I was inside the original covered period anyway, but that just doesn't sound correct (what if a defective part is placed on the car at. 59k, then fails 3k miles later? It's not warrantied? Of course the part is warrantied, otherwise the manufacturer would have an incentive to use defective parts to get a car out of the warranty period. I'm fairly certain most Federal and State consumer protection laws already guard against that).
 

ChitownStang

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Question for all you 10r80 guys. Mine is tuned with Livernois but did the same thing when on stock Mach 1 tune.
Coming to a stop driving very normal, not fast at all and a gradual slow down, not hitting brakes hard, the car will do an aggressive lurching downshift from 2nd to 1st. It only does it in S or S+ and it only happens 10-15% of the stops. Is this a transmission defect or a tuning issue?
I am seriously contemplating going with Wengerd which is well known to have the best 10-speed tune, and dumping another $900 on a new Tune but not sure if it will fix the issue.
Other than being quircky or confused sometimes the Trans doesn't have all the other symptoms of being broken.
Thoughts?
 

Flyhalf

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Question for all you 10r80 guys. Mine is tuned with Livernois but did the same thing when on stock Mach 1 tune.
Coming to a stop driving very normal, not fast at all and a gradual slow down, not hitting brakes hard, the car will do an aggressive lurching downshift from 2nd to 1st. It only does it in S or S+ and it only happens 10-15% of the stops. Is this a transmission defect or a tuning issue?
I am seriously contemplating going with Wengerd which is well known to have the best 10-speed tune, and dumping another $900 on a new Tune but not sure if it will fix the issue.
Other than being quircky or confused sometimes the Trans doesn't have all the other symptoms of being broken.
Thoughts?
Mine does the same. With a different tune. I paddle shifting on Track but When I go to a stop I have that issue.
Different tunes. Different transmissions. But still The same thing
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