10R80 Owners - ULTIMATE M6G 10R80 Facts + Resolutions to harsh or no shift conditions

[MNstang]

So my 2019 A10 with 14000 miles had a very abrupt jolt when shifting from R to D. This car was bought used so I don't know if this problem was always present. Strangely, this only occurred when the transmission was warmed up. There was also some harsh downshifts especially in sport mode.

Took it in, dealer fortunately was able to replicate the problem. Cleared adaptives, still harsh so they replaced the valve body and updated the software. Took them a few days to get everything done.

The harsh shift into drive is gone. I also noticed shifting with the paddles is distinctly sharper and quicker. I previously thought the transmission did shift slow when using the paddles, but assumed that was a characteristic of the car.

Just wanted to share my experience in case anyone else was on the fence of taking the car in.

This sounds very similar to my trans - did you have them check the fluid level?

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[Thegipper]

Does anybody have a harsh 4 to 5 shift where the car bucks while in sport+ mode?

 

[Hsq91]

This sounds very similar to my trans - did you have them check the fluid level?

They went straight from clearing adaptives to valve body replacement so I didn't even bother asking about fluid levels. I figure with a valve body replacement they'll have to replace the fluid anyways so if it was low, it'll get fixed and I get new fluids.

 

[gmupatriot]

Does anybody have a harsh 4 to 5 shift where the car bucks while in sport+ mode?

I have 38,000 miles on my GT and yes the 4-5 is so harsh sometimes it seems I got rear ended. I also have the 2-3 lurching shift which makes the car seem as if someone pushed it from the back during the shift. Its not the nice crisp shift that should happen in S or S+ mode, rather it feels like something will break. I have not taken it to the dealership yet.

Do keep in mind the transmission was not like this when I got the car new. This started happening around 20,000 miles.

 

[Zathras]

4 to 5 shift w

Yes, even at light or moderate throttle, the 4-5 (or 5-4) shift is often very jerky for me (in Sport+ mode). I don't mind firm shifts when I've got the hammer down, but it shouldn't be this harsh just in normal driving in traffic.

 

[NeedForGreen]

.

 

[Det_Riot]

I happened to be googling information on the issue I have and found an old thread then this one. I have a 2019 auto with digital dash where the rpm's drop slightly in 5th gear to 6th. You can even hear my exhaust sound like its struggling and losing power. It's only from 5th to 6th. In any other drive modes no issues. I even got a Ford Performance calibration tune and it still does it. I never get codes so at first I thought the new throttle body was an issue, but then I figured since it only happens in normal mode it was what others said in other places.... converter lock up. Annoying to say the least. My shifts are smooth. Nothing rough. Originally last year even before I had the FP tune I was having rough shifts especially in sport plus. Dealer looked at it (so they say) and reset the kam. I told them to check the fluid. It did fix the issue I was having at that time.
Only other issue I have is the dreaded reverse to drive delay.

reverse to drive delay is 9/10 times a valve body issue. Also sounds like it could be the issue with the delay from 5-6 as a valvebody solenoid is likely sticking.

 

[Dominant1]

The factory tune from Ford is fubar, Chevy's 10-speed factory tune is better, but I would recommend a trans tune from any of the reputable tuners like PBD, Lund, etc It's more than likely to be leaps and bounds above the Ford factory tune..

 

[mustangpegasus51]

So I actually had to lemon law my 2019 over some issues with hesitation and some CEL misfires. Definitely thought the transmission issues were a part of it.

However, now have a 2020 and the transmission is definitely still jumpy and erratic sometimes. Park to Drive etc. is fine. However, I think a lot of it has to do with the software, and that this trans needs to warm up a bit.

I also noticed a lot of these reports picked up during covid, including mine. I take many more short trips than normal where I would do a few medium-length commutes a day, so am wondering if maybe the adaptive transmission adapts to this over time and then when we actually want to have fun it gets confused. Still doesn't excuse poor programming, but chocking a lot of this up to the adaptive trans might give folks some peace of mind.

However, those with heavy delays from P to R etc, this thread if I remember correctly, as well as others, confirmed that a quick trip to the dealer and a new valve body should fix it.

 

[MichaelMV]

Hello everyone! I have 2019 Mustang 2.3 with 26k mi. I think I have a known problem with the 10R80 transmission: "6) Extremely harsh engagement from Park into Reverse OR from Reverse to Drive (1st gear). Exterior temps do not matter. The engagement can be so harsh that it feels as if the car has been hit by another vehicle or like the driveline will rip the rear from the car."
Can anyone tell me how to solve this problem?

 

[NeedForGreen]

Hello everyone! I have 2019 Mustang 2.3 with 26k mi. I think I have a known problem with the 10R80 transmission: "6) Extremely harsh engagement from Park into Reverse OR from Reverse to Drive (1st gear). Exterior temps do not matter. The engagement can be so harsh that it feels as if the car has been hit by another vehicle or like the driveline will rip the rear from the car."
Can anyone tell me how to solve this problem?

Take it to the dealer for them to look at it.

 

[Thegipper]

Take it to the dealer for them to look at it.

My 10r80 was replaced due to a similar issue, among others. The new one still feels like the car has been rear ended when it goes from 4-5.
I agree with taking it to another dealer; but I’m not hopeful it will solve anything.

 

[MichaelMV]

Take it to the dealer for them to look at it.

Yeah that would be the easy way to go!) But my Ford dealer doesn't service mustangs and doesn't know about the 10R80 transmission. So I would like to know how other people have solved this problem.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Yeah that would be the easy way to go!) But my Ford dealer doesn't service mustangs and doesn't know about the 10R80 transmission. So I would like to know how other people have solved this problem.

Seeing you’re located overseas - it seems you don’t have many options if your Ford Dealer does not service Mustangs (why?).

If you go back to Page 1, Post 1 of this thread to the “FACTS” - the only options to possibly help your situation are:

FACT 4 - checking the fluid level of the transmission. Many M6G owners have found that the factory fill was low and not correct. Fact 4 from the first page has the links for DIY checking and knowing proper fill level. Only fill the transmission with the Trans fluid noted in FACT 1.

FACT 3 - After checking the fluid level and making sure the Trans is filled to the proper level, you can reference Fact 3 section for resetting the 10R80 adaptive learning tables. In that Fact section, follow the posted instructions to doing this per the Service Manual instructions OR if you have Forscan, the Forscan instructions posted will also perform a reset. Follow the posted instructions exactly as noted.

If after resetting the adaptive learning tables you’re still experiencing harsh shifts or abnormal shifts, the problem is most likely a hardware problem (see Notes section at bottom of Post 1). A KAM reset of the tables is only a software “fix” and will not fix any hardware related issues. FACT 2 of page 1, Post 1 contains all of the current Ford docs pertaining to known 10R80 concerns, including the most common internal hardware issues.

If you check the fluid and do the KAM reset and there’s still shift issues, the most common hardware failure was the valve body. If you can’t do that repair yourself, the car definitely needs to be taken to a shop that can do the R&R properly.

Hope the above helped.

 

[Rickloreto]

So here are my findings after a year and two months battling the car from vibrations and shifting issues (mainly atributed to the mods made to the car but only one mistake on my part for half of the year of issues (3.73 torsen swap from a gt350 didn’t swap to automatic ponion flange and that cured all the vibration lol)
So all in all i’m still in love and more now that its fixed. The only caviat i’ve noticed on 3.73 torsen is they are noisy meaning the thud when the driveshaft loads/unloads since I asked for more throttle sensitivity in my tune but thats about it and quite forgivable after the vibration.
The main concern is when modding the car either axle ratio/tire size change from the oem size you do have to use forscan to change the code values for one or the other or both if doing these mods in the AS BUILT files and do a PCM relearn to learn the new values and finalize with a transmission adaptive learning table reset and drive the car for about 150 miles (will drive weird for that amount of driving) until its smooth as butter but essentially the shifting problems and harsh shifting even the torque application when going P to R and D where it seems to leave without you is mainly attributed to those mode without the PcM changes which ford usually has a brain fart with and tuners will say (it’ll learn it or say will make the changes but they don’t work) I noticed since my car was reading 3-4mph higher in the analog speedo compared to digital being we have both abs and output shaft speed sensors and when not reading the same speed (the car calculates shifting based off rpm but it goes crazy with two speeds on up/down shifting and with time it gets worse and worse potentially damaging stuff or all together what tuners call it will never drive like stock when tuned lol so in my experience the car protected itself by not giving me all the torque making it drive like crap and of course noisier like many that seem to not move as fast but crazy loud. After all these changes and having the pcm relearn everything from codes for the mods and tune itself it now drives like it did or would stock only with the added power of mods/tuning and its nice having both speedos read the same speed (potentially have to change the tire size value every time you get the radials/slicks in since its usually a tire size change so shift points don’t give us issues, also notices the famous idle jerk when cam falls out of phase is gone, but most of all the car is 1000% enjoyable and way more quiet since it now has all the torque applied when it pulls it back its like the reason for it to seem to fall on its face when shifting or even stutter etc which leads to the valve body replacement (of course there are others that do end up having mechanical issues but thats another story just bad apples I guess. But all this in my 2018 A10 Mustang GT. Just make sure of using Forscan to make the corrections as if ford made them with the IDS software from factory when coding the pcm. Hope this helps a lot of you. Of course there are many things we are able to modify in the pcm if you check on the forscan forum (even having fog lights on with high beams ) just for a $70 dollar cable for using forscan and ford would charge the $200+ diagnostic fee to usually pay someone that probably farts and smells his finger after poking his but Just the blunt truth.

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