NIB Boundary OPG and CS for "2011+ Coyote V8 / GT350" purchased about a year ago, never installed. NIB. Located in Michigan. Price: $175 Shipped lower 48 Paypal.
(I totaled my Mustang GT before I had the chance to upgrade them. It was a sad day)
Thanks!
J
I was going to lower, STH, etc a bunch of suspension work to auto-x it, you know, before I totaled it.
Anyway, if you lower it, and need to go on a dirt road, basically ever (highway turn-around, two-track, MTB trailheads, fishing, even some event parking) you can't do it without highly risking...
That car was the favorite (and most expensive) thing that I have ever owned. I would like to get the 2024, but I think that I will be looking at F-150 for my next ride. I really want to be able to tow a small boat, use the bed for a kayak, 4x4, and snowmobile. I used to live in a city with a...
Just for data points, the car is totaled. Good news is that the value is high ($30k) for a car that I bought for about $27,500 - two years and 20k miles ago. I put enough maintenance and upgrades into it that I didn't "make money", but I did pretty well to not lose my a$$.
Mine **doubled** when I moved from Denver, CO to Escanaba, MI, and then of course right after I move, I have an accident, preventing me from changing for a little while.
Ya, I believe that was a red herring, because what else would cause things to bind, but ONLY after 45 mins of stop and go driving. I still cannot figure out what the actual problem was. Ford's shifter swelling from the heat? lube rubbing off?
I have a lot of variables in play. I moved from 5000Ft+ to 600Ft (keeping the same tune). If I ran it no prep at 5k ft, it was a 13.3-ish car. Running at a mile less altitude made a huge difference, and I ran a 12.7 at 600ft, no tune change. I think that I could have gone faster. 0-60 was...
I just wanted to follow up to my original problem in this thread. What was happening was that when the Ford Racing short shifter got hot (45 mins of driving), it would get EXTREMELY stiff, and I could push it from N all the way to the LEFT and have it just stick there, against spring tension...
Well, we had to find out who that was first. I went through the sheriff, county, and now we have found out that it's owned and maintained by the state (DNR). I have to return their call on Monday.
I took the flashlight out to check things out today, and aside from a ton of plastic crap that's falling off, all of these spots "look" ok to the naked eye. The AC condenser is toast, rad is toast, both wheel wells, lower front bumper, fogs, grille, lights are prob toast, rear wheel liners...
I am guessing that this is what happened, and I hope that it is.
Total it out vs waiting 3+ months for parts and labor, paint, blah blah. I personally don't think that I could have spanned the ditch, even if I was going 50+ MPH.
I have literal decades of experience on dirt roads. I was born in MI and have just returned to the UP (50 miles from the crash site).
I used to jump my F150 in my 20's, and in my experience, that front engine (5.4L) comes down HARD and FIRST. I have no idea how it spanned the culvert like...
I think that’s about right. 70% ish. Also need to check the oil pan/starter/transmission/ shocks and towers, etc and other underbody parts.
I just don’t see it costing 20k. I hope that I’m wrong.
We are in a delicate dance. One person says that it’s a county road. Another says that it’s an “abandoned county road”, another says that it is a county road that was bought by a private landowner and gates were illegally installed (1/4 Mile after my washout).
google told me to take that road...