when using an alignment conversion chart, one uses the wheel diameter to be able to convert millimeters to degrees.
i have 19 in wheels, but if you actually measure the face of the wheel it is 20.5 in in diameter. should i use the 20 in scale on the chart?
i figured out a stringless method to do make sure thrust angle is zero:
a) cut a 24 in level to the exact width of your wheel at centerpoint
b) glue a laser level to it
c) bungee cord it to the wheel
d) set up a ruler at hub height
e) turn on laser
measure where the laser scribes the...
i believe that is correct.
however, with toe plates i think all you can get is total toe and not toe specifically for each side., hence you wont know the thrust angle
looking to try a hone alignment using an angle finder and toe plates. im not sure how to get the thrust angle right this way. any tips? the string/pvc pipe method would work but jacking the car up, adjusting, putting it back down and setting the strings back up over and over looks like it would...
just picked up a set of these.
a couple of noteworthy things:
a) this part does not use a spherical bearing. there is a rubber bushing connecting the steel sleeve the strut shaft goes through to the rest of the plate(see pointer in pic).if nvh is your concern i think these plates should be...
the factory approved procedure is to oval out the strut to spindle mount hole on the strut.
by the way, does anyone know the nonsplined strut to spindle bolt part number? i cant imagine the splined one would slide properly if i elongated the strut mount hole and fixed my camber that way
just throwing this out there…
has anyone tried ovaling out the three holes that the strut mount bolts come up through the chassis? that would probably allow some camber adjustment.
thinking this through, a couple of points present themselves
a) there has to be more nvh with a plate because the stock rubber bushing in the mount is replaced with a bearing so that more noise will be transmitted from the suspension to the chassis
b) it seems that if slippage of the camber...
perusing the threads here, there is generally a very noticeable bias against camber bolts. mostly, no good explanation is given as to why. Likely they are more difficult to adjust. Also, you would likely not be able to apply as much negative camber as a plate, as the wheel may eventually rub...
just reading through some threads here and noticed everyone generally craps on camber bolts but there is usually not a clear reason given. has anyone had one fail?
having done this a few times i can say its either easy or hard depending on the conditions you drive in. the rotor may have seized to the hub if you drive in salt covered roads. if this occurs, you have to spray liquid wrench in there and bang on it with a mallet to free it. also, if there is...
this is sad but unfortunately will be repeated over and over. many of us are old timers now, but which of us didnt drag/street race someone at some point when we were 18? its part of the psychology of being that age, i think. not sure if there is an answer, really.