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this wont work unless you have short and stiff springs. if you try to do this with stock springs they will expand so far you will not be able to free it and then you will be in trouble. dont ask me how i know.

actually, this is my buddy exactly

thanks for this as an aside, i find it strange that all the power in the engine gets transmitted through what looks like a pizza pan

my understanding of the dual rate spring is that it’s actually a very stiff single rate spring with a built in helper spring to keep it from falling out during full extension of the suspension. this means that it is a really stiff spring. this really shouldn’t be marketed as a comfortable...

make sure you check that the camber arm to chassis bolt is tight. it’s supposed to be 86lb feet. its difficult to reach with a torque wrench. my stock arms knocked when i didnt torque them down tight enough

does anyone know the flexplate to torque converter bolt torque spec for 2015 6r80? cant find it in service manual.

it certainly looks good. pls let us know what happens to your diff temps

im not convinced the caliper really matters. why is 6 pistons actually better than 4? better pad wear pattern maybe but thats about it. rotor diameter, brake cooling, fluid and pad probably matter a lot more. id rather have car with 15in rotors and factory brembos than a car with 14 in rotors...

the bolt grade on that is 12.9 thats higher than the standard automotive 10.9 so at least it is high strength

i bet the pp brake booster delivers more boost. when people swap the pp mc and booster and think they have ‘better’ braking it’s probably all from the booster.

the inboard camber arm bolt is difficult to torque down properly on an alignment rack. after i got my alignment done it started squeaking and clicking. it went away when i tightened that bolt. you need an xl length 18 mm ratcheting flexhead wrench and take the wheel off to get at it better.

yes, this is likely the brake rotor from the titanic, which would explain why it crashed into the iceberg

i too did this upgrade and did not need a new master cylinder. i think this concept never died out because there was never an explanation of why there are 4+ mc’s offered for our cars. does anyone actually know what the differences are? is the piston larger in some? is the volume bigger, etc...

likely your sliding pins are seized

try this caliper repair kit from rockauto

i just did this. i installed a lot of kit in addition to the axle seal it went well a couple of points 1)you can do this with the exhaust still on 2)the easy way to get the axle out, is to unbolt the knuckle at 4/5 of the attachment points and leave the knuckle to lower control arm bolt loosely...

we need to keep in mind that the 10r80 was also designed to be used in an f150. put a vw dsg/pdk in an f150 and see what happens. the economies of scale is what drives this approach.

250 and some data that shows it works. the problem is that it isnt only about thermal conductivity of the cover; its also about the flow of the gear oil. see vid below:

yes you could get the m4 comp to be faster but it is a euro 6 cyl turbo that many of us find to be somewhat uninteresting. an na v8 at full throttle has no equal. also, the front end of m4 comp is quite ugly. i’d take the steeda mach, personally.

no helmets? i actually prefer the na v8. its more pure.