1. IMRC in cars is typically more than just emissions. It also gives you better part throttle tq and drive ability a lot of the time. Now yea I understand WOT the blades are full open but if I can keep them and the tuner I chose can account for them, then I’d rather retain them. Now if I...
Anyone see any real data between these 4 options I've seen around? Not sure who to go with, won't be going VMP because their pricing is way out there compared to the rest.
Warranty is finally up and i'm starting to purchase my engine mods, of which will be a ported 2018 intake retaining IMRC...
I’d put them as midgrade, similar to common bilstein options on other cars. Cheap options are in the 1200 and below price range and typically don’t have the quality of mid and high kits. I think some are ok but I wouldn’t know personally. You won’t get into really good Coilovers until you’re in...
Thanks for the help, I kinda figured 2 inch wouldn’t be needed but just wish I could see some data on people that have used them. I’ll be going with ARH headers, talked with ARH and since I had the cat back already they mentioned contacting them for the “long” setup and getting a slightly...
So I tried looking for anything on 2 inch headers and know ARH sells them but have no idea if their beneficial or not? Supporting mods will be all NA, ported 2018 intake, cai, and AED tune or similar. Any other beneficial 93 octane NA mods?
it was probably this. Although I’m pretty sure I’ve shut the car down with the wheels turned before lol
or could have also been related to getting a new battery.
but yea, I’ve had it happen in other vehicles before so I’m sure it’s just it’s normal operation. I assume it’s that way so the...
well gee Sherlock I understand that but with almost 5 years of ownership it’s never happened before with this car. Seemed odd that the steering wheel even locked
So I’ve owned this car for a few days shy of 5 years now and I just got this message and the car wouldn’t start. First time ever happening, finally decided to move the steering wheel and it started but still seems weird. Don’t know why it happened in the first place?
Would use of another material mimic a spherical bearing solid mount but add in a similar but more communicable failure point? Like derlin etc? Not necessarily as a replacement to the bearing itself. Maybe something within the unit that could be replaced
I am certainly hesitant to use aftermarket upgraded rear mounts due to the increased stress on fixed portions of the car. Is there anyway to reap some benefits of a spherical bearing in the rear while maintaining a fail safe between shock loads and the car itself?
I wonder if adding a beefier...
Depends what you’re looking for... if you just care about slamming the car past what springs do, any budget C/O will suit you. If you’re not trying to slam it, the general consensus is to get quality dampers (Ford Racing, Steeda, Koni) with the springs you want (BMR and Steeda for good handling)...
I can say one thing, if you want a heavier steering feel don’t install light weight rotors. I’ve had AP Racing rotors sitting in my closet for a few years and now that I decided to put new pads on, I finally installed the rotors too.
I keep telling myself it’s all in my head but the steering...
So I’ve searched around and it’s been difficult to find a solid answer on what the oem part number is for the rear pads. I don’t really trust the Ford parts sites to give me the right part as they don’t even show the right part number for the front brakes when I plug in my VIN and there’s about...