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https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/vdp.action?listingId=362638510&sourceContext=carGurusHomePageModel&zip=48314&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=d2303#listing=362638510/NONE/DEFAULT One owner 2016 with 23k mi for 47,600

first of all that price range was in the offseason in winter. And the one I sent doesn’t exist in your search still somehow… regardless, I do agree 50k seems to be the price point for a nicely kept mid mileage gt350

You’re partially right - I thought magride became standard in 2018 but it was 2016z the rest is just fake news. The whole point was for $5k more he could get a stock GT350. I found a car with an advertised price of $45k. You then set an arbitrary limit at $44k. lol. And it’s not winter - I...

2018s are more expensive. since they get the gen 2 voodoo and Magride. here you go https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/vdp.action?listingId=388223629&sourceContext=carGurusHomePageModel&zip=48314&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=d2303#listing=388223629/NONE/NATIONWIDE_SHIPPING...

This thing has 40k miles on it. Check out cargurus.

That PP2 for 40k obo isn’t a terrible deal either since that really means about $35k. I’m surprised the market in Germany is actually close to if not cheaper than the US market. I agree about save your money for another year and buy one stateside that’s stock. Some of these guys are caught up...

My pp1 is also planted right up to 170. 130 in the stang feels like a cruise at 90 in my charger. It’s a wheel/tire thing imo. The car felt like shit on the rock hard OEM pirellis and heavy pp1 rims but on my combo now it’s awesome. Cornering could be better but in a straight line it’s money.

Honestly a good detail shop should be able to touch that up and blend it so you won’t even know it’s there unless you’re up close staring at it. Sucks though. I have a good story about ding deniers. in college a buddy got rear ended in the Taco Bell drive through at 2am by some dude in a pos...

Yep that’s what I heard too. I think that’s the street kit. The track kit is supposed to be close to the gt350 pre mag ride.

Yep I’ve since made a bracket that mounts to the firewall but honestly this worked fine with the high heat red zip tie.

So maybe I’ll start with the fpp kit which includes the toe link and then go from there. the PP1s do have the other bearing from the factory. Thanks that covers shocks, springs, sway bars and the bearing. I have good wheels and tires already, I’ve split off the clutch reservoir. Maybe I’ll do...

Pretty similar to what I had planned so good to hear I’m on the right track thanks for the feedback

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-rear-irs-subframe-brace-2015-coupe-555-5754.html https://www.lethalperformance.com/upr-products-2002-24-2015-2024-mustang-billet-aluminum-irs-vertical-links.html https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-5536-mustang-extreme-g-trac-k-member-brace...

That’s would be a decent price for a normal 37k mile gt350 here in the US but imo I wouldn’t touch this car for over 40. Too many factors screaming that it’s been beat on, too many original parts missing, fenders hacked up etc. Might be a nice track car if that’s what you want it for but resale...

I know this isn’t exactly what you’re looking for but active exhaust, x pipe, and 2 12” vibrant resonators and I have the deepest sounding 5.0 I’ve heard in track mode or I can switch it to quiet mode and it is completely silent. An h-pipe would make it even better. I’d go junkyard active...

Change setting in bcm. Then go back to the programming page and run the pcm relearn process. Then go to the tab above it, service procedures I think it’s called, and clear pcm adaptive learning. There’s also an option in that tab to halt transmission learning that I don’t think will do anything...

Tire size adjustment in bcm on forscan and pcm parameter relearn, plus resetting the KAM and driving for 100 miles or so while shifting as fast as possible has fixed 99% of it for me.

I hear the same thing. The mantic is supposed to fix high rpm issues and rev hang. Problem is I’m not dropping 3k on a clutch when I can spend 10k and move into a mach or Shelby and never have a trans issue again.

I did the fluid upgrade/steel line/mgw shifter. It improves shifting 99% to the point I have no nibble and never miss a shift. However the clutch still sucks and will delay releasing sometimes on a quick shift where I have the pedal on the floor and can still feel it tugging on the gear when i...

Yep I agree. If you know how to adjust the clutch I’d be very interested. Doesn’t seem like you can though. There’s just no reason to have it only release such a small amount that it still rubs the flywheel when hot.