suspension mods - feedback appreciated

[sms2022]

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-rear-irs-subframe-brace-2015-coupe-555-5754.html

https://www.lethalperformance.com/u...stang-billet-aluminum-irs-vertical-links.html

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-5536-mustang-extreme-g-trac-k-member-brace

https://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-assembled-handlingpack-2015gt.html

Considering the above to stiffen up my car. Also going to get camber plates. I run on the track once a month and drive it 2-3 times per week to work 10 miles along some decent roads, plus a lot of spirited driving around the hills near my house.

the pp suspension is okay but the car leans hard in corners when it has a lot more grip to give and the rear end has always felt a half step behind the front. Once it settles it does hook and corner hard probably thanks to the 295/305 super sports I have on it.

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[RTR077]

All good choices. I would also consider the IRS alignment bushings as a cheap add on. My rear end was out of whack until I put these in.

 

[1 old racer]

All I can do is tell you what works for me. I prepped my PP1 to be a good daily and competent HPDE car. With that said here are the suspension mods I have done. Ford performance track springs and struts. with camberbolts plates (soon to be Vorshiag caster camber For ease of track side camber adj.) . Steeda adj sway bars Steeda bump steer correction ( toe links ), vertical links Steeda 4 point g trac sub frame, Steeda IRS subframe brace, Steeda IRS alinment bushings , some kind of brake cooling plates. Also because the car is used as a daily I stayed away from Poly bushings as much as possible. There is so much more I could add but that does cover the suspension only mods I have done and I will say for me it handles good for a road/track car. I should Add that if you go with the Volshiag camler plates you should bore out the strut tower hole to get full use of what they can do.

 

[Cornflake]

After spending 5k on suspension from Steeda. Sway bars, adjustable links, Vertical links, stop the hop kit, IRS bushings, diff bushings, springs, Pro action adjustable struts, progressive springs... Here is what I learned. Everything helped and everything made the car feel and act more like a sports car no complaints on product. However, if I could go back in time I would have bought springs and the stop the hop kit. Then took the rest of the money and invested in time at the track with a side budget for tires. I think we all get it backwards and spend all the time and money on the car and very little on our skill set. A seasoned race driver in a bone stock car will likely smoke most of us with every suspension upgrade available. The more I have thought about that the more I am convinced working on me and just enjoying the car would have been a better way to go.

 

[mindo389]

Steeda has some nice packages that save money over buying the parts individually. I bought the strut tower brace and the K member brace first and noticed a difference in the front end handling after installation. Then I added most of their other front and rear parts, to round out my build. A good set of tires and rims will add to the handling.

 

[sms2022]

All I can do is tell you what works for me. I prepped my PP1 to be a good daily and competent HPDE car. With that said here are the suspension mods I have done. Ford performance track springs and struts. with camberbolts plates (soon to be Vorshiag caster camber For ease of track side camber adj.) . Steeda adj sway bars Steeda bump steer correction ( toe links ), vertical links Steeda 4 point g trac sub frame, Steeda IRS subframe brace, Steeda IRS alinment bushings , some kind of brake cooling plates. Also because the car is used as a daily I stayed away from Poly bushings as much as possible. There is so much more I could add but that does cover the suspension only mods I have done and I will say for me it handles good for a road/track car. I should Add that if you go with the Volshiag camler plates you should bore out the strut tower hole to get full use of what they can do.

Pretty similar to what I had planned so good to hear I’m on the right track thanks for the feedback

 

[WItoTX]

Just my two cents.

RLCA spherical first. Toe link too if the PP's don't have the spherical in there. That is the only mod on mine where I took it out after, and thought WOW, I can really feel this, and it's amazing. The stuff to lock down the rear sub frame from moving, I would install if I was you, but I wouldn't go too crazy with it. Like 1 old said, I think seat time is 95% of the battle.

 

[sms2022]

Just my two cents.

RLCA spherical first. Toe link too if the PP's don't have the spherical in there. That is the only mod on mine where I took it out after, and thought WOW, I can really feel this, and it's amazing. The stuff to lock down the rear sub frame from moving, I would install if I was you, but I wouldn't go too crazy with it. Like 1 old said, I think seat time is 95% of the battle.

So maybe I’ll start with the fpp kit which includes the toe link and then go from there. the PP1s do have the other bearing from the factory. Thanks

that covers shocks, springs, sway bars and the bearing. I have good wheels and tires already, I’ve split off the clutch reservoir. Maybe I’ll do the brake cooling vanes also and then take it out and see how it runs.

 

[WItoTX]

So maybe I’ll start with the fpp kit which includes the toe link and then go from there. the PP1s do have the other bearing from the factory. Thanks

that covers shocks, springs, sway bars and the bearing. I have good wheels and tires already, I’ve split off the clutch reservoir. Maybe I’ll do the brake cooling vanes also and then take it out and see how it runs.

You got a photo of the clutch reservoir? I still need to do mine, just been lazy about it.

 

[Blackedoutdreams]

So maybe I’ll start with the fpp kit which includes the toe link and then go from there. the PP1s do have the other bearing from the factory. Thanks

that covers shocks, springs, sway bars and the bearing. I have good wheels and tires already, I’ve split off the clutch reservoir. Maybe I’ll do the brake cooling vanes also and then take it out and see how it runs.

Make sure it's the track kit. From my understanding the other kit is similar to what comes factory on the pp1 cars.

 

[sms2022]

You got a photo of the clutch reservoir? I still need to do mine, just been lazy about it.

Yep

I’ve since made a bracket that mounts to the firewall but honestly this worked fine with the high heat red zip tie.

 

[1 old racer]

The bumpsteer correction links (toe end links) from Steeda are designed to correct the geometry that occurs when you lower our Mustangs. This help reduce tramlining. I forgot to add to pick up a set of front and rear Steeda sway bar end links

 

[sms2022]

Make sure it's the track kit. From my understanding the other kit is similar to what comes factory on the pp1 cars.

Yep that’s what I heard too. I think that’s the street kit. The track kit is supposed to be close to the gt350 pre mag ride.

 

[WItoTX]

Yep

I’ve since made a bracket that mounts to the firewall but honestly this worked fine with the high heat red zip tie.

Good stuff. I'll probably do something similar, but someone over on TMO designed and shared a 3D printed bracket. I might give that a shot first. How well does the clutch line stay on the reservoir?

 

[sms2022]

Good stuff. I'll probably do something similar, but someone over on TMO designed and shared a 3D printed bracket. I might give that a shot first. How well does the clutch line stay on the reservoir?

It’s not an issue with the tension taken off the line by moving it closer to the firewall it fits like it was actually intended to. I added the fuel injection clamp for added security and it’s never coming off now.

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