GT350 Track Upgrade Suggestions - Road course and Circuit

[GT350Willow]

It's my off-season for tracking, so I thought it would be a perfect time to look into getting some more suspension upgrades, weight reduction, and fine-tuning. I want to increase my cornering ability, mechanical grip, and overall track performance without adding power. I will work on it over the course of a few months as temps start to come down. Cost isn't that big a worry given this time frame, and I would like to keep it under 10,000 for the whole thing, though that is flexible if the gain is worth it. I normally go to Willow Springs, which is a fast, high-banked track, hence my alignment. I posted a thread with my current best lap time of 1:30.144 (even with this setup, I can get a better time) if you want to see it in action. It's not a daily by any measure, but I do like to be able to drive to and from the track and go in canyons. I wanna hear from anyone who has experience with this, and your suggestions for good options for my setup to replace what I currently have, and what I can add on top of it.

Off the top of my head, my current setup is:

• Stock Drive Train
• OEM Gt350 Aero
• Stock GT350 MagRide shocks and struts (I am currently looking at getting the Ford Mustang GT500-Spec MagneRide Shock/Strut Upgrade Kit (2016-2023) to replace my current ones)
• Steeda Mustang 'Stop The Hop' Handling Ultimate Kit (2015-2026) or Steeda Mustang GT350/Mach 1 Handling Ultimate Kit (2015-2023)
• Steeda Mustang w/ MagneRide Nurburg Package (2015-2026)
• Steeda Mustang Subframe Alignment and Support Kit (2015-2026)
• BMR Subframe Chassis Brace 4-Point Red Front Mustang 2015-2023
• MMR Bushings

Wheels:

Front Wheel: SM-10RS 19x11" ET26
Tire: Goodyear F1 Supercar 3R 305 30ZR19

Left Front:

• Camber: -2.0
• Caster 6.7
• Toe: -0.05

Right Front:

• Camber: -2.5
• Caster 6.9
• Toe: -0.06

Steer Ahead: 0.00

Rear Wheels: SM-10RS 19x12" ET57
Tire: Goodyear F1 Supercar 3R 325 30ZR19

Left Rear:

• Camber: -1.8
• Toe: 0.14

Right Rear:

• Camber: -1.8
• Toe: 0.15

Thrust Angle: -0.01

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[GT350Willow]

Some more mods I have, mainly for increasing the reliability:

• Steeda Mustang Adjustable Differential Bushing Insert System - Urethane (2015-2026)
  
  
• Ford Performance Oil Separators for both sides

 

[WItoTX]

What are you trying to solve?

 

[GT350Willow]

What are you trying to solve?

Increase my cornering ability, mechanical grip, and overall track performance without adding power. I will work on it over the course of a few months as temps start to come down. Cost isn't that big a worry given this time frame, and I would like to keep it under 10,000 for the whole thing, though that is flexible if the gain is worth it.

(added this to the original post afterward)

 

[WItoTX]

Seat time. Book a bunch of track time.

Aside from that, Penske, JRZ, or MCS 2 or 3 ways. But honestly, I wouldn't mess with that until you identify what problem you are solving because that is $6-10k. Is the car pushing? Loose? Not transferring weight? Floaty? Brakes get soft? Something else?

 

[HoldenSSVandGT350]

Increase my cornering ability, mechanical grip, and overall track performance without adding power. I will work on it over the course of a few months as temps start to come down. Cost isn't that big a worry given this time frame, and I would like to keep it under 10,000 for the whole thing, though that is flexible if the gain is worth it.

(added this to the original post afterward)

Maybe worth it to look at 350R aero to compliment the increased mechanical grip of those ZL1 1LE spec 3Rs ?

 

[NightmareMoon]

WltoTX is right. Ideally you are able to identify what you want to change about the current dynamics.

Your build list raises eyebrows. You have tons of braces and stuff but 2 degrees of front camber, so we’re looking at that and guessing whats up.

Next thing I’d buy is camber plates and adjustable swaybars and leave the rest alone until you have a good grasp of understeer and oversteer at the limits.

The magnaride puts some limits on your options, but as a driver, what can you perceive about the way the car drives that you want to address? There are tradeoffs for additional mechanical grip, and I’m not talking cost tradeoffs.

 

[GT350Willow]

Seat time. Book a bunch of track time.

Aside from that, Penske, JRZ, or MCS 2 or 3 ways. But honestly, I wouldn't mess with that until you identify what problem you are solving because that is $6-10k. Is the car pushing? Loose? Not transferring weight? Floaty? Brakes get soft? Something else?

The first part is covered. I plan on getting more track time when Big Willow gets repaved and opens in the fall. These are companies I will definitely look into. I don't really have a problem with the car I'm trying to answer. I'm just trying to make it better than it is currently. If anything, I would say the back end did feel less planted than the front, but that's pretty much true for most front-engine cars. Also, in my mentioned lap video (), you can see towards the end, when in turn 8, the long sweeping one, you can see the car was shaking, but that was due to the condition of the course rather than an aspect of the car.

 

[GT350Willow]

WltoTX is right. Ideally you are able to identify what you want to change about the current dynamics.

Your build list raises eyebrows. You have tons of braces and stuff but 2 degrees of front camber, so we’re looking at that and guessing whats up.

Next thing I’d buy is camber plates and adjustable swaybars and leave the rest alone until you have a good grasp of understeer and oversteer at the limits.

The magnaride puts some limits on your options, but as a driver, what can you perceive about the way the car drives that you want to address? There are tradeoffs for additional mechanical grip, and I’m not talking cost tradeoffs.

I already have adjustable sway bars, but I forgot which ones. I run them on a high stiffness settings and plan on trying the highest the next time I get on track, but I don't know how to describe their feel here in comparison in a way you can understand. Camber plates are something I'm interested in, but I don't know a good one that works well with my current setup. I'm open to suggestions. I don't have anything I want to address with the car. I want to make it better than it currently is. The only thing I would address is the back end, as it did feel less planted than the front.

 

[honeybadger]

Looking at your video, you're carrying decent momentum - which is great. Dont need to break the habit of over-slowing. But you're a good ways off of the limit of the tires (i.e. you're still steering with the front wheel almost entirely). I'd hold off aero for now.

Generally, I've never found a mustang that benefits from running sway bars on the stiff settings unless you have a very well-tested suspension setup that requires it. Stock-ish setups will always work best of the softest settings of these aftermarket bars.

I'll also go against the grain here a bit - pretty much all of the bolt on mods are a waste of money in the long run. Given your driving and overall goals, putting on braces, stiffer springs, etc. is all like changing the floor mats and shift knob (no hate to those that do that). It's noticeable - but its not really transforming much.

There are three things to do here -

1. Put solid bushings/spherical bearings everywhere to get the most of out your suspension. I suggest someone like AJ Hartman or Cortex for the bearings. This will eliminate all the slop and give you better feel and communication. Skip the braces - they add weight and welds to fail.

2. Swap your suspension arms for adjustable ones. I use SPL. I especially like the front control arm and tension arms - they allow you to move the wheel forward a bit and get more caster. Plus they're lighter and have no rubber in them. Alignment has a huge affect on handling.

3. Dump the OEM magneride of real coilovers. OEM stuff is good....for a street car. Drive a mustang on Penskes or MCS and you'll kick yourself for wasting $$ on anything else.

 

[WItoTX]

2nd what HB said. I spent my money on bolt on stuff, and now 90% of it is gone. Sphericals completely transformed my car.

The only other suggestion. Go to a less good tire. Something like a 660+ and do some sessions. The less grip will help with shaking out where the car lacks grip, and will expose your own weak points. Do most of an event on those. Push them to and past their limit (in safe corners). Then go back onto the 3Rs. Those 3Rs are like a cheat code, and you will start finding time in so many places your head will spin.

One last thing. Keep your hands on the same spot on the wheel. It's really helpful with knowing where your pointing your car.

 

[GT350Willow]

2nd what HB said. I spent my money on bolt on stuff, and now 90% of it is gone. Sphericals completely transformed my car.

The only other suggestion. Go to a less good tire. Something like a 660+ and do some sessions. The less grip will help with shaking out where the car lacks grip, and will expose your own weak points. Do most of an event on those. Push them to and past their limit (in safe corners). Then go back onto the 3Rs. Those 3Rs are like a cheat code, and you will start finding time in so many places your head will spin.

One last thing. Keep your hands on the same spot on the wheel. It's really helpful with knowing where your pointing your car.

I've been looking into what HB said, and they are absolutely an upgrade from anything OE or aftermarket. The day before my pb lap with a well-worn and old set of Cup 2s on smaller tires and I found that with my current setup, it maintained a good contact patch, a noticible reduction in grip compared to SC3R, still the front was very planted, but the rear felt a little floatly, especially in those short change corners and the long sweeping ones it didn't feel as confident with maintianing power through them even with the bank angle it has. There was a few times I felt the back want to kick out between turns 3 and 4. On the hand position thing, I'll do that the next time I'm on track I'll try to remember to do that.

 

[GT350Willow]

Looking at your video, you're carrying decent momentum - which is great. Dont need to break the habit of over-slowing. But you're a good ways off of the limit of the tires (i.e. you're still steering with the front wheel almost entirely). I'd hold off aero for now.

Generally, I've never found a mustang that benefits from running sway bars on the stiff settings unless you have a very well-tested suspension setup that requires it. Stock-ish setups will always work best of the softest settings of these aftermarket bars.

I'll also go against the grain here a bit - pretty much all of the bolt on mods are a waste of money in the long run. Given your driving and overall goals, putting on braces, stiffer springs, etc. is all like changing the floor mats and shift knob (no hate to those that do that). It's noticeable - but its not really transforming much.

There are three things to do here -

1. Put solid bushings/spherical bearings everywhere to get the most of out your suspension. I suggest someone like AJ Hartman or Cortex for the bearings. This will eliminate all the slop and give you better feel and communication. Skip the braces - they add weight and welds to fail.

2. Swap your suspension arms for adjustable ones. I use SPL. I especially like the front control arm and tension arms - they allow you to move the wheel forward a bit and get more caster. Plus they're lighter and have no rubber in them. Alignment has a huge affect on handling.

3. Dump the OEM magneride of real coilovers. OEM stuff is good....for a street car. Drive a mustang on Penskes or MCS and you'll kick yourself for wasting $$ on anything else.

For the SPL parts which ones do you use specifically and how much caster can you get from them compared to stock or even some aftermarket if you have the experience? Are they compatible with your suggested bushings and bearings? Between Penskes and MCS which one would you suggest from their options? I've never had coilovers before so I don't have a baseline of what I would like and need from a 2 way, 3 way, or 4 way adjustable kit.

 

[mavisky]

Agreed. Magneride upgrades are cool if it's your daily driver and track car all in one. Otherwise ditch it and move onto a real coilover setup. I wasted a ton of money on two different stock spring setups, multiple swaybars, and even the DSC controller. The MCS units are just a league beyond and my buddy is now a dealer for Nitron and is having great success with their components as well.

 

[dpAtlanta]

Between @honeybadger & @mavisky, all questions for set-up should be answered…. These two are the meca of knowledge as is relates to suspension.

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