Question for guys who actually have the the Roush Kit

Autopart101

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Do you have hotstart issues with the chiller? Mine hates it but haven't been able to figure it out yet (not tune related, tried stock Roush and Wengerd)
No Sir. At times mine for some resaon is rich and idel drops some. Not sure if its injector related or deadhead fuel sys.
 

acemastr

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No Sir. At times mine for some resaon is rich and idel drops some. Not sure if its injector related or deadhead fuel sys.
I'm very confused then, it'll start but revs drop down to 300-350 for 2-3 seconds and it'll come back.

Just seen you don't have the Roush 2650, some people are saying it's condensation from the cold heat exchanger brick running into the cylinders.
 

Autopart101

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I'm very confused then, it'll start but revs drop down to 300-350 for 2-3 seconds and it'll come back.

Just seen you don't have the Roush 2650, some people are saying it's condensation from the cold heat exchanger brick running into the cylinders.
I have a similar issue. Mine is worse when engine is hot, Idle and start. Logs show. Everything looks normal then for no reason is runs rich and idle drops. Then returns to normal. Muti revisions have made major improvements. Idle rpm has been increased. I'm not sure if its Large injectors (FIC1650s) or a hot Dead Head fuel Sys. WOT looks great.
 

acemastr

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I have a similar issue. Mine is worse when engine is hot, Idle and start. Logs show. Everything looks normal then for no reason is runs rich and idle drops. Then returns to normal. Muti revisions have made major improvements. Idle rpm has been increased. I'm not sure if its Large injectors (FIC1650s) or a hot Dead Head fuel Sys. WOT looks great.
It used to also drop to 300rpm ish at a red light but changing out my VCT solenoids appears to have fixed that, no problems since.
Now my trans shudders, can't catch a break lately!
 

RoushRacer26

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I asked Lund if they would do a 100 Octane tune for my car and they won't even tune our cars because the blower is such a hotty.
I would imagine you would get back the psi you lost with your headers so you shouldn't be above the stock 12psi with a smaller pulley. And you can run 91 octane at 12psi. I would look into adding Boostane if you race the car at all just for the added insurance of some extra octane. You also don't need a return style fuel system to run on E85 if that changes anything for you.
But getting a tune will definitely get your more power. I picked up 35whp on a mustang dyno just from the switch from the Roush tune to a custom tune.
I can't race at the drag strip if the temps are 80° or above but that's not really tune related...blower just doesn't stay cool enough
Just curious if you custom tuned your Roush for it to run okay on E85 without upgrades to the fuel system. I’d like to run E85 but don’t really want to spend 3-4 thousand dollars just to be able to do it. I have a MPVI3 OBDII & Tuner interface module I got from hp tuners but I’m far from an expert when it comes to manual tuning.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!
 

RoushRacer26

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Btw I called both Kong and Jokerz to ask about porting on stock builds. Neither one answered and Jokerz even has an answering machine that tells you to email them if you want a response.
I'm not doing that. I'm over it now.
read your post and just wondered if you had any luck getting ahold of jokerz? I’ve emailed them a couple times to no avail and I’m not even brave enough to order one of their $200 SC shipping boxes just to find out they aren’t in business anymore. Too bad if they aren’t around anymore or went out of business those ported 2650’s looked pretty sweet imo.
 

Hammerhead13579

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@RoushRacer26

I called and talked to a local tuner about running an ethanol mix with my car on just a boost-a-pump. He was down to tune the vehicle but I never went down that route so I can't tell you more beyond that.
EngineerMike is the one that helped me understand the capabilities of the stock fuel system once the voltage is increased. He runs E85 on multiple vehicles with blowers and BAPs. AND he tunes his own vehicles. He is definitely has all of the knowledge on this subject.

I never went beyond trying the contact them. I think their claims for power gains from porting were embellished anyway. I think there is definitely power to be had there but it depends on the pulley size, fuel, and other cooling mods

Also, maybe check this out. The 1000hp module could be good for just under $1,000.

https://kpmfuelsystems.com/?store_s..._brand=42&search_model=78&search_category=148
 
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SH!FT

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read your post and just wondered if you had any luck getting ahold of jokerz? I’ve emailed them a couple times to no avail and I’m not even brave enough to order one of their $200 SC shipping boxes just to find out they aren’t in business anymore. Too bad if they aren’t around anymore or went out of business those ported 2650’s looked pretty sweet imo.
Jokerz customer support was prompt via email when my brick order was delayed at PWR. I spoke with the owner couples times (he called me). He was professional, but seemed insanely busy and production focused. Not a bad thing. Don't hold your breath for a reply if you're requesting info that's already listed in the product details or FAQ section. The brick is nice!
 

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Can you retain the firewall K brace with this kit? PP1/PP2 mustangs have those aside from the Strut Tower Brace, which has to come off unless you have a Schropp one.
 

Hammerhead13579

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Can you retain the firewall K brace with this kit? PP1/PP2 mustangs have those aside from the Strut Tower Brace, which has to come off unless you have a Schropp one.
You can double check the installation instructions but in pretty sure the K-brace isn't touched. You also don't technically have to run this kit without the strut tower brace. All you need is some washers, a dremel, and a small tear in the fire blanket to remove some of the fire material padding. Someone wrote about it on here.

PXL_20250918_225504206.webp
 

robvas

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SH!FT

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Can you retain the firewall K brace with this kit? PP1/PP2 mustangs have those aside from the Strut Tower Brace, which has to come off unless you have a Schropp one.
K-brace fits. It is tight the reach the hoses and plugs behind the intake manifold. Use worm clamps on the IM water fittings instead of the Roush provided constant tension hose clamps. Details here: #11

Here's how to get the ford strut bar to fit with spacers: #66

You can lower the motor 1/2" if you want stiffer motor mounts:
Installed Steeda Motor Mounts - Install Write Up (post #5)

More fitment and measurement info if you consider phenolic spacers to address Roush SC IAT: #140
 

The Watchman

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Ladies & Gentlemen,

I am posting a couple pics of my 22’ GT with Roush 2650 P2 kit installed.

It is bittersweet because this summer will be the last time I drive this whip in it’s current form.

I have a fully built and sleeved gen 3 short block and 3.8 Whipple going in the car very soon.

Also, I am eagerly awaiting a RPG level 3 Coyote head package with forged everything in the top end as well.

Needless to say, patience is a virtue…

Nevertheless, my experience with my current setup has been great.

We are e85 with headers and custom tune by Ortiz. 2.8 Griptec pulley and FI Interchiller stage 2 kit.

This car is a straight up animal on the street with a t56 Magnum gearbox.

Time and again, the consensus is the same…ppl chasing me down asking “what’s all done to that thang”. Lol

The car hooks and books right now and I’m slightly concerned I will lose some drivability with the built long block…but alas, ignorance is bliss…

IMG_8042.webp


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