ManualMindset
Well-Known Member
The one in the cluster. It now shows as vacuum/boost but never goes positive.
SH!FT
Well-Known Member
Changing the 3rd digit of the factory code to “7” worked for me (720-06-01: xx7x-xxxx-xxxx).
I enabled the gauge before loading the Roush cal. My factory settings shown on the left above. The ECU was able to correct any checksum issue during the write. The 11th digit was automatically changed from “1” to “A”.
ManualMindset
Well-Known Member
The guide I followed was to change it to XX7F. Now I changed to XX7E it automatically changed to look exactly as yours. I'll drive it this weekend to check the functionality. Thanks for the help!Changing the 3rd digit of the factory code to “7” worked for me (720-06-01: xx7x-xxxx-xxxx).
I enabled the gauge before loading the Roush cal. My factory settings shown on the left above. The ECU was able to correct any checksum issue during the write. The 11th digit was automatically changed from “1” to “A”.
SH!FT
Well-Known Member
Was it this video link?
It took me a couple tries. Another guide I followed gave me a working boost gauge but removed the oil pressure gauge. Here's my notes from 2022: post #21
ManualMindset
Well-Known Member
That was the video I followed. It works now following your way. Thanks again!Was it this video link?
It took me a couple tries. Another guide I followed gave me a working boost gauge but removed the oil pressure gauge. Here's my notes from 2022: post #21
Brady MacDonald
Member
Hey everyone, I have a 21 with roush stage 2. Stainless works headers high flow cats, VMP voltage fuel pump booster, car made 640 on the dyno with shit fuel. It just has the regular roush tune. I was looking into getting it tuned ( wanted to go little smaller of a pulley ) was recommended not to because of the heat soak on pump gas. Would need to go e85 if I wanted to get anymore power.
wondering if anyone on here has a similar setup on the 2650 ? Did you go smaller pulley on pump gas with a tune ? How was the heat soak ? I’m using it as a street car, any info is appreciated!
wondering if anyone on here has a similar setup on the 2650 ? Did you go smaller pulley on pump gas with a tune ? How was the heat soak ? I’m using it as a street car, any info is appreciated!
Hammerhead13579
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I asked Lund if they would do a 100 Octane tune for my car and they won't even tune our cars because the blower is such a hotty.
I would imagine you would get back the psi you lost with your headers so you shouldn't be above the stock 12psi with a smaller pulley. And you can run 91 octane at 12psi. I would look into adding Boostane if you race the car at all just for the added insurance of some extra octane. You also don't need a return style fuel system to run on E85 if that changes anything for you.
But getting a tune will definitely get your more power. I picked up 35whp on a mustang dyno just from the switch from the Roush tune to a custom tune.
I can't race at the drag strip if the temps are 80° or above but that's not really tune related...blower just doesn't stay cool enough
The Watchman
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@Brady MacDonald you will want to hear directly from @engineermike for more info on how to run e85 without a return style fuel system.
Also, I know it may be overkill to answer your question, but I am quoting a post I wrote last year summarizing all the material of this thread.
Good luck with your build. I will tell you these kits make excellent power with the proper upgrades.
Greetings,
I trust this message finds you in good health.
Well, I just finished reading all 879 pages and 13,176 posts!
Do I win a prize?
Anyway, I wanted to give several "key takeaways" after reading this incredible thread:
Key Takeaways:
1. The Roush 2650 kit for 3rd Gen Coyote has an "Achilles Heel" flawed intercooler brick design which causes heat soak issues. This is due to the DI fuel lines being in the "valley" of the 3rd gen Coyote engine and the Roush 2650 intercooler brick sitting directly on top of those lines causing terrible heat build up.
2. The P1 (Phase 1) Roush 2650 also included an undersized LTR design and extremely conservative canned tune which further exacerbated the heat soak phenomenon.
3. The issues which plagued the P1 were low fuel pressure and A10 transmission issues. This first round of problems were essentially rectified by adding a BAP and/or upgrading the fuel pump. (DW 400). Roush also updated the tune and helped with the tranny problems as well.
4. Phase 2 brought a noticeable improvement with an upgraded, larger LTR and more aggressive calibration from Roush. Nevertheless, P2 and P1 both had issues with failed cats with reports of several end users claiming as many as 5 or more cats replaced.
5. The appeal of the Roush 2650 for 3rd Gen Coyote is found in the factory warranty being maintained and the general good quality of drivability and convenience of having a SC kit supported directly by Roush and Ford. Factory warranty was 3/36 with the SC installation by a Roush/Ford approved technicians.
6. The various issues notwithstanding, the Roush 2650 kit still offered excellent drivability and "street-able" high HP and Torque applications.
7. Those looking for higher HP performance and drag racing applications are "probably" better served with a different boost kit.
8. Many of the issues associated with the Roush 2650 for 3rd Gen Coyote are rectified by employing after market parts and services. Tuning, headers, fuel systems (E85), ice tanks, inter chiller systems, larger radiators etc. It is reported users experienced drastic alleviation of heat soak with inter-chillers.
9. Even with all the problems associated with the Roush 2650 for 3rd Gen Coyote, direct engine failure due to the kit itself is relatively low. For example, there were many, many more reports of the 5th Gen Whipple kits on P1 tune causes catastrophic engine failures than Roush.
NOTE: This synopsis is a general summary of the material in this thread and is in no way designed to include all the various nuances of discussion.
Cheers!
I trust this message finds you in good health.
Well, I just finished reading all 879 pages and 13,176 posts!
Do I win a prize?
Anyway, I wanted to give several "key takeaways" after reading this incredible thread:
Key Takeaways:
1. The Roush 2650 kit for 3rd Gen Coyote has an "Achilles Heel" flawed intercooler brick design which causes heat soak issues. This is due to the DI fuel lines being in the "valley" of the 3rd gen Coyote engine and the Roush 2650 intercooler brick sitting directly on top of those lines causing terrible heat build up.
2. The P1 (Phase 1) Roush 2650 also included an undersized LTR design and extremely conservative canned tune which further exacerbated the heat soak phenomenon.
3. The issues which plagued the P1 were low fuel pressure and A10 transmission issues. This first round of problems were essentially rectified by adding a BAP and/or upgrading the fuel pump. (DW 400). Roush also updated the tune and helped with the tranny problems as well.
4. Phase 2 brought a noticeable improvement with an upgraded, larger LTR and more aggressive calibration from Roush. Nevertheless, P2 and P1 both had issues with failed cats with reports of several end users claiming as many as 5 or more cats replaced.
5. The appeal of the Roush 2650 for 3rd Gen Coyote is found in the factory warranty being maintained and the general good quality of drivability and convenience of having a SC kit supported directly by Roush and Ford. Factory warranty was 3/36 with the SC installation by a Roush/Ford approved technicians.
6. The various issues notwithstanding, the Roush 2650 kit still offered excellent drivability and "street-able" high HP and Torque applications.
7. Those looking for higher HP performance and drag racing applications are "probably" better served with a different boost kit.
8. Many of the issues associated with the Roush 2650 for 3rd Gen Coyote are rectified by employing after market parts and services. Tuning, headers, fuel systems (E85), ice tanks, inter chiller systems, larger radiators etc. It is reported users experienced drastic alleviation of heat soak with inter-chillers.
9. Even with all the problems associated with the Roush 2650 for 3rd Gen Coyote, direct engine failure due to the kit itself is relatively low. For example, there were many, many more reports of the 5th Gen Whipple kits on P1 tune causes catastrophic engine failures than Roush.
NOTE: This synopsis is a general summary of the material in this thread and is in no way designed to include all the various nuances of discussion.
Cheers!
^Please click on the spoiler tab for dropdown info.
Brady MacDonald
Member
I was in the same boat, contacted another place about the pulley down, they said to avoid it without going full e85 .... just want to squeeze the most out of this setup on pump fuel .. may even get interchiller setup for next summer
Brady MacDonald
Member
Good info here ! I'm looking more towards on what I can do, without e85. I don't mind getting interchiller kit for heat soak. I'm trying to max what I can get on pump fuel (half reliably) but from what I'm gathering I shouldn't change pulley because without e85 the SC wont handle much more boost without e85 ?
The Watchman
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You should easily squeeze around 650-700 rwhp out of this kit with LTH, free flowing exhaust and aftermarket tune on 91/93.
My car made 693 rwhp on 93. (M6)
As others have noted, you should definitely run Boostane Professional if you wanna max out this kit on pump gas...
When you are ready, @beefcake can get you set up with an inter chiller.
Hammerhead13579
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It's not that the supercharger won't handle the boost. You won't be able to run as much timing because you are octane limited at 12psi with 91 octane. That being said my tuner in Socal got me that extra power at 12psi on 91 octane (with 2oz of Boostane that I added so about 93 octane). And like I mentioned I don't think you will be above that 12psi after going down 1 pulley size because you have headers so the boost should have dropped at least 1 psi on the stock pulley. At the end of the day it's your call and whoever is comfortable tuning it. But even if you don't pulley down I would recommend a tune since you got headers on the Roush tune...
Brady MacDonald
Member
Thats what I was wondering as well, I've lost a bit of boost since the headers ... I am 100% getting it tuned. I just want to gain back what I've lost. Will they be able to do that with tune or need to pulley down ? I have access to 93 Shell / 94. ( boostane is an option as well, may get a separate tune for that when we go down for random track days )
Forgive me as well not as knowledgeable as some folks on this fourm. Appreciate the help though !
Forgive me as well not as knowledgeable as some folks on this fourm. Appreciate the help though !
robvas
Well-Known Member
Remember you don't "lose" anything.
Boost goes down because your engine is more efficient with the headers. So you might lose a lb of boost but your horsepower actually goes up. You can just add the lb of boost back with a one size smaller pulley and make even more if you want.
