2022 Mustang GT 10 Speed header install

[atlas10Spd]

Hello I have purchased a set of headers I am going to install was hoping to get some tips and procedures for installing them. I will be buying new gaskets and was wondering what else would be required, additionally I have installed headers on a f150 single cab 5.0 is it a similar procedure? Thank you!

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[John S]

Right side has clearance challenges with A/C Compressor and A/C line along frame rail and left side has frame/body rail, steering shaft, and motor mount stud clearance challenges. Remove any obsticals like the battery box , cowl bracing brackets, steering shaft, motor mounts, etc., Depending on the header brand and your depth of tools, it's failry straightforward. Just have tons of patience, I used new factory studs and lock nuts and it takes a while to inch all of them on and torque them down. Having access to a 2-post lift highly recommended.

 

[ehazel]

For gaskets I would highly recommend the thick crushable remflex gaskets. I was unable to get mine to seal up with oem or the kooks gaskets.

Be sure to follow the proper torque sequence as it made a huge difference when I was fighting to get mine to seal with the "normal" gaskets. I used a shop vac on blow mode to pressurize then spray with soapy water to make sure they were sealed. For me seal was extremely important (and the reason I had to re do this a couple years after the initial install) I was getting a 10-20% fueling difference between banks 1 and 2 due to leaks.

I removed the studs completely and used the kooks bolts. Ratcheting flex head wrenches, torque adapters are basically a requirement. A ratcheting torx is pretty nice for the studs.Lots of lights also.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2018-gt-header-install.111326/post-2371386

Plan for a rough weekend, I've done this twice both times using quick jacks. The second time I just hung the motor with one of those harbor freight support braces and dropped the whole front subframe. Made it so much easier and less frustrating.

Take your time and be very patient if you don't drop the subframe. Remember these are aluminum heads and it's pretty easy to cross thread going into the heads because it's difficult to get bolts or studs lined up due to space constraints. I made this mistake and ended up having to drill the threads and use steel inserts on a couple of spots.

 

[Jaymar]

 

[acemastr]

I can't stress how much it sucks doing it on jack stands...

 

[jcm3]

I did the same job, took me WAY longer than I thought it would, and I've been working on cars for about 40 years, since I try to do my own work. It was a pain, but got it done. I started on a Saturday morning around 10am and worked on it until well after midnight, then about six hours the next day. I expected 4-6 hours, but nope. (at least not for me)

I'm not unique here, and did need to remove both motor mounts to lift the engine a little bit to get the clearance to get the old headers out and new ones in.

I wish I'd taken ehazel's advice and used all of the bolts that came with the long tubes, but I only used them where I couldn't get to the studs since I know the OEM studs and nuts seem to hold torque better. The problem now is that when I go to re-tighten them, I can't get to a few since the engine isn't lifted slightly. Saved some money doing it myself, at least.

Live and learn, I guess.

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