AWD 2017 Mustang GT Conversion

[G.T.]

It is funny how many threads are on the forum like this recent one about tires:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/tire-recommendation-for-boosted-cars.224942/



Besides the fact that I just get a kick out of figuring stuff out and building it, that is the whole point of my project. Put the power down on street tires.

Most of the comments on my videos are very positive, but then I get some like this:

"Why going this route when you could always go 15inch wheel setup for excellent grip?"

"There are thousands of 2wd 10 second mustangs. I don’t get it. Cool car. Prolly great in inclement weather but 10sec isn’t a big deal."

10 sec is not a big deal for a properly setup drag car, especially an automatic. I will be the first to admit that a 2wd car on properly setup suspension with the appropriate tires will be faster at a prepped track. What people don't seem to understand is that I could do a 10.79 in front of my house with 295/35 R19 Extreme Contact sports on all four corners. The problem is I will never film that and put it on YouTube. I don't understand people who film their 60-130 runs in "Mexico" and put them on YouTube. I honestly don't need to ever go over 100mph on the street. For me it is all about being able to punch it and actually use the power on the street, stop light to stop light.

This is not venting, I actually find if humorous that people don't realize this, or think that I am not intelligent enough to understand this

What the car really needs right now besides fixing the noisy 2nd gear is some serious driver mod! I need to get the 60ft down to 1.4-1.5sec by learning how to launch better.




0 replies

IYKYK.

They dont.

Cant be said enough, this is one heck of a project and getting it running AND RACING is really something!

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[xr4x4ti]

This is not directly Mustang Related, but....

I have a pretty small YouTube Channel, but get at least one offer a week by companies that want me to showcase or demo their product. I have ignored pretty much all of them since they don't really apply to what I do. But Revopoint, the 3D scanner folks, reached out to me and offered me a Laser 3D scanner for free if I reviewed it and I could not pass that up



Take a look if this interests you.

 

[xr4x4ti]

I need a new clutch in the car.

My long term goal is to have a very street friendly clutch. But I really want to go to the drag strip this coming season and push the car quite a bit.

Question, do I stick to my convictions and put in a better organic street clutch? Or, do I say F'it for one season and put in a ceramic clutch just for one summer to prove the rest of the drivetrain can handle the abuse and try to rip a 1.4/1.5sec 60 ft slipping the ceramic clutch?

Thoughts?

 

[Gen 6 Mach1]

Good Afternoon, coming from a Drag Racer (1977thru 2005) or former DR , put the ceramic clutch in and go have fun . I tip my hat to you and your build , you are quite the machinest and fabracator, your abilities to go to the next level is 2 nd to none . By all means go have fun , I had a blast for 28 years , taught me a lot ,I think my Dad for getting me into cars .

 

[GT 550]

Hey Tim IMHO go the ceramic as it presents opportunities for now:

1. have fun and scratch the itch on the track
2. load test the drivetrain
3. not potentially wonder about the data points it will yield

 

[G.T.]

Yes, it does go against the long term want for the car, but a ceramic clutch and using it in anger should uncover any things that can be improved, if there are any.

But it's already pretty sorted and we're not gonna be able to help much if something breaks so I'd understand if you decide to put in a nice organic clutch and just enjoy driving it.

 

[HKusp]

Put a Mantic in it. It is very streetable and will handle anything you throw at it. It's a bit pricey, but you won't need to return it to a "street friendly" organic clutch. You ultimately will save time and maybe money not having to buy and install twice.

 

[xr4x4ti]

Thanks for the feedback.

If I go organic, I am going to go this direction.

https://www.advancedclutch.com/prod...twin-10-5-heavy-duty-sprung-street-clutch-kit

I called and verified that the discs have a Marcel and it will shift at 7800+ RPM. I am sure it will be great on the street. But can I slip it to try and get a 1.5 60ft?

 

[xr4x4ti]

The AWD Mustang Project has been sort of on the back burner the last few months while I focused on some house projects.

Goals for this season:
-Rebuild transmission, switch to close ratio gears, add oil pump
-New Clutch
-Swap back to 4.10 gears / remove front LSD
-Fix oil leak in oil pan / make the front diff easier to service
-New Supercharger More on that later.

The 4.10 rear diff is in the car, parts for the transmission are slowing coming in and I have a line on a clutch.

This weekend I pulled the front of the car apart in preparation for swapping gears, etc and this is what on saw on the passenger side inner CV joint:

I guess it is putting some power to the front wheels

Just as a reminder, this CV joint is a machined and re-splined unit from a Jeep. Even though I felt the new smaller splines were still in the heat treated zone of the original part, it looks like they are a bit softer than required.

I am not sure what the plan is to fix this. Having to make a new CV joint was not on my bingo card for this spring. I am really busy and don't want to reengineer the whole assembly. The jack shaft that I machined to drive the drivers side CV looks fine, that was machined out of 45 Rc 4340. So I think properly heat treated splines made out of good material will handle the power. But I may have to rig something for this season.

The reason I am working on my house is to sell it with the goal of getting a much bigger shop. The long term goal is to treat this car and all of it's AWD parts as a proof of concept and make and completely reengineer a much better setup that I could possible sell to other folks. Thus, I don't want to put to much effort into this CV joint.

More to come.

Tim

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Why remove front LSD?

 

[xr4x4ti]

Why remove front LSD?

It made the car a bit squirrely on uneven roads. I am not convinced I need it.

As I mentioned, I will be making a MK2 version of this whole car long term with improved suspension geometry that may make it less of an issue.

 

[Cobra Jet]

The AWD Mustang Project has been sort of on the back burner the last few months while I focused on some house projects.

Goals for this season:
-Rebuild transmission, switch to close ratio gears, add oil pump
-New Clutch
-Swap back to 4.10 gears / remove front LSD
-Fix oil leak in oil pan / make the front diff easier to service
-New Supercharger More on that later.

The 4.10 rear diff is in the car, parts for the transmission are slowing coming in and I have a line on a clutch.

This weekend I pulled the front of the car apart in preparation for swapping gears, etc and this is what on saw on the passenger side inner CV joint:

I guess it is putting some power to the front wheels

Just as a reminder, this CV joint is a machined and re-splined unit from a Jeep. Even though I felt the new smaller splines were still in the heat treated zone of the original part, it looks like they are a bit softer than required.

I am not sure what the plan is to fix this. Having to make a new CV joint was not on my bingo card for this spring. I am really busy and don't want to reengineer the whole assembly. The jack shaft that I machined to drive the drivers side CV looks fine, that was machined out of 45 Rc 4340. So I think properly heat treated splines made out of good material will handle the power. But I may have to rig something for this season.

The reason I am working on my house is to sell it with the goal of getting a much bigger shop. The long term goal is to treat this car and all of it's AWD parts as a proof of concept and make and completely reengineer a much better setup that I could possible sell to other folks. Thus, I don't want to put to much effort into this CV joint.

More to come.

Tim

Have you tried to reach out to GForce and explain your project and the axle issue?

They have been helping the Mustang community for a long time and are known for their performance axles. I’m sure they could design a better axle for your application where the splines would not fail or twist as easy. I don’t know the cost, but your project and the vehicle is VERY well known across the internet and I’m sure they could offer some insight/help.

 

[xr4x4ti]

Have you tried to reach out to GForce and explain your project and the axle issue?

They have been helping the Mustang community for a long time and are known for their performance axles. I’m sure they could design a better axle for your application where the splines would not fail or twist as easy. I don’t know the cost, but your project and the vehicle is VERY well known across the internet and I’m sure they could offer some insight/help.

I appreciate the feedback, but it is a bit more complicated. They would not be able to make CV joint/stub combo.

For the next iteration, I will make the whole CV axle setup much more modular.

 

[xr4x4ti]

Another update.

I mentioned above how I was rebuilding the transmission. If you watched the video where I went to the track, you will know that somehow my 2nd gear in the transmission got noisy. I pulled it apart and this is the cause, look at the score marks on the 2nd gear teeth of the countershaft.

This looks to be a lubrication failure. The level was ok. I was running non synthetic Valvoline ATF per the builders recommendation. The fluid smelled burnt. I am not sure if a higher level or a synthetic fluid would have prevented the failure, but I am adding a pump to the transmission to spray oil on the gears during hard acceleration. More on that to come.

Tim

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