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sk47
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Hello; There is a long thread about such a startup on here not long ago. There are varieties of opinions from just start it and using an aftermarket oil primer you can buy.
I willtry to find it.
I willtry to find it.
Zooks527
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^This^
Hold the accelerator to the floor and crank it for 10 to 15 seconds, then quickly release the accelerator and it should be fine.
offroadkarter
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This has worked on Fords going back into the 2000's, my 2004 Marauder will do it. Pretty sure my 1996 Bronco will also do it.
As stated above, foot to the floor (all the way to the floor, not half way, not 3/4) hit the start button, let it crank and after 10-15 seconds you should build some oil pressure (I can see it on my oil gauge)
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robvas
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Just start it. It's not dry. And no sense in turning over dry if it was. You don't turn over an engine to prime it (can't prime it with the starter on a modular anyway), you would want to just turn the oil pump (not the whole engine)
2015 Silver GT
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Just start it and stop overthinking it.
Skye
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I'd just start it.
Skye rests for four-to-five months during Winter break. Oil pressure building as soon as the engine catches and is running, the needle pegged in under a second. Oil analysis has proven no ill effects. I think it's more important the engine is spinning at its expected oil pressure as soon as possible.
When previously deep-diving into the topic, I began trolling auto museums for articles of their maintenance routines. For pre-war cars, they would often wheel those off, remove the distributor and pre-oil the engines with a drill and extension. For virtually all post-war cars, they'd simply start it.
It was more important to the organizations maintaining those vehicles that they slowly brought the engines up to a steady operating temperature before stressing, and kept it there for an extended drive.
There are limits to anything. Starting a car in a climate-controlled museum after a year, they do that all the time. Starting a car sitting in an open-air barn after a year, that's a different situation.
YMMV.
Skye rests for four-to-five months during Winter break. Oil pressure building as soon as the engine catches and is running, the needle pegged in under a second. Oil analysis has proven no ill effects. I think it's more important the engine is spinning at its expected oil pressure as soon as possible.
When previously deep-diving into the topic, I began trolling auto museums for articles of their maintenance routines. For pre-war cars, they would often wheel those off, remove the distributor and pre-oil the engines with a drill and extension. For virtually all post-war cars, they'd simply start it.
It was more important to the organizations maintaining those vehicles that they slowly brought the engines up to a steady operating temperature before stressing, and kept it there for an extended drive.
There are limits to anything. Starting a car in a climate-controlled museum after a year, they do that all the time. Starting a car sitting in an open-air barn after a year, that's a different situation.
YMMV.
robvas
Well-Known Member
I would like to hear some behind-the-scenes information from a place like Jay Leno's garage
Personally, the thing I would worry about is 6+ month old gas. It should be fine but you never know. I know when I started mine for the first time in ~ 5 months it idled a little weird for a minute or two.
Personally, the thing I would worry about is 6+ month old gas. It should be fine but you never know. I know when I started mine for the first time in ~ 5 months it idled a little weird for a minute or two.
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sk47
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Hello; The crux of the first start after sitting a long time boils down to if the oil somehow sticks to the metal of the rotating assembly, the cylinder walls and such. Secondary to that is if it does somehow stay attached, is the surviving film enough to prevent damage.
For me after being a shade tree since the early 1960's I do not have a clear answer. Meaning I have seen evidence bouth ways but without knowing how long an engine sat. I have broken down several junkyard engines and the oil film was gone.
I have not had the heads off a healthy engine which simply sat for many months without the engine never being turned over.
My gut tells me it is better to get oil circulating thru an engine before a fire up. What long experience tells me is we can "get away" with just firing an engine up. I had one fellow who owned several cars. He hated paying insurance on all of them so would keep two insured to drive and let the others sit. A few sat for years and got to the point of being frozen.
A very decent 1967 Austin Healey 3000 mark III being one. I tuned it up. Changed the oil. Repaired the overdrive. and almost had it in on the road condition right after he bought it. It needed a set of knock off wheels and the corresponding hubs. The splines were worn out. He balked at the cost of a replacement set. A previous owner had drilled half inch holes thru the wheels and hubs and inserted a bolt. That held the wheels on, but the holes were wallowed out. Could lot drive only. He drove it home and parked it in a damp unheated garage. Would start it and let it idle from time to time. A few years later I went to his place and the engine was locked up.
Another sat in spells from a year or two to one spell of over four or six years. Many such spells before i moved out of the state. From the mid 1970's till 2010. He always just jumped the battery and cranked it. I was called in when it would not start. Always got it running but saw the engine deteriorate over the years. Likely no more than 5000 miles running on the street in the time. I suspect it was the air cooled flat six which helped it survive.
Here is a question for others who DIY. Can you recall having the heads off an engine which had been running when parked but not turned over before the heads came off??? If you did can you recall the inside of the cylinders?
For me after being a shade tree since the early 1960's I do not have a clear answer. Meaning I have seen evidence bouth ways but without knowing how long an engine sat. I have broken down several junkyard engines and the oil film was gone.
I have not had the heads off a healthy engine which simply sat for many months without the engine never being turned over.
My gut tells me it is better to get oil circulating thru an engine before a fire up. What long experience tells me is we can "get away" with just firing an engine up. I had one fellow who owned several cars. He hated paying insurance on all of them so would keep two insured to drive and let the others sit. A few sat for years and got to the point of being frozen.
A very decent 1967 Austin Healey 3000 mark III being one. I tuned it up. Changed the oil. Repaired the overdrive. and almost had it in on the road condition right after he bought it. It needed a set of knock off wheels and the corresponding hubs. The splines were worn out. He balked at the cost of a replacement set. A previous owner had drilled half inch holes thru the wheels and hubs and inserted a bolt. That held the wheels on, but the holes were wallowed out. Could lot drive only. He drove it home and parked it in a damp unheated garage. Would start it and let it idle from time to time. A few years later I went to his place and the engine was locked up.
Another sat in spells from a year or two to one spell of over four or six years. Many such spells before i moved out of the state. From the mid 1970's till 2010. He always just jumped the battery and cranked it. I was called in when it would not start. Always got it running but saw the engine deteriorate over the years. Likely no more than 5000 miles running on the street in the time. I suspect it was the air cooled flat six which helped it survive.
Here is a question for others who DIY. Can you recall having the heads off an engine which had been running when parked but not turned over before the heads came off??? If you did can you recall the inside of the cylinders?
sk47
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(1) restart after winter hibernation | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com
Hello; This recent thread has hashed the subject out.
Hello; This recent thread has hashed the subject out.
Wanka
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I would just like to thank all the kind folks out there who took the time and effort to reply to my question. It is very much appreciated.
I did end up starting it with the "foot to the floor method". Of course to add a wrinkle to the process, my key fob battery was dead.
Thanks again.
I did end up starting it with the "foot to the floor method". Of course to add a wrinkle to the process, my key fob battery was dead.
Thanks again.
Guarded 5oh
Active Member
My car wouldn’t know what to do if it sat all winter. I’m more than certain it would miss its snow plow job. Rain, sleet, snow or shine. My 17 GT sees it all. Price you pay for a daily I reckon.
MAGS1
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He’s mentioned in a few of his YouTube episodes that he uses fuel stabilizer. He also regularly rotates driving all of them so it’s usually not an issue. I have heard him say they’ve had to siphon gas out of a few of his older cars because he doesn’t drive those as frequently (like pre-1950’s older) just due to their age and parts availability.
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