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Car is dead - Need help

WildHorse

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It's part of FORDS smart charging system. The PCM controls the charging rate based on the load of the alternator.
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Cobra Jet

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Just to add some thoughts -

The problem with EPAS failing could be:
1) communication link between modules has somehow failed or there’s a short in the harness
2) internal EPAS unit belt has either snapped or come off (YES, the EPAS has an internal rubber belt believe it or not)

This detailed thread with pics discusses the EPAS belt and in that thread I helped get the correct belt info to the OP:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/help-identifying-eps-belt-size.127584/#post-2642940

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There also was a recent thread on here regarding a wiring loom or harness that is in front of the engine and may be in very close proximity of the serpentine belt. This M6G member posted here that his brand new GT350R experienced multiple failures because that wiring loom came in contact with the belt - which severed wires within the loom:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/photo-delivery-blog-2020-gt350r.137089/#post-2818458

———-
There is also this TSB for the GT350’s which would or in some cases would not throw any DTC’s but cause multiple operational issues:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/tsb-19-2135-surge-or-hesitation.126435/#post-2619812

The OP could have went to an Auto Parts store and had them do a load test on the battery - and could have asked to put in a new battery to see if the battery was 100% at fault for his conditions...

However, IMO I just don’t think it’s 100% battery related, not with a dead EPAS unit... even after performing a CAM reset....
 

lenFeb

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Thanks everyone. I found a dealer who agreed to look at the car today but no loaner. I drove it about 6-7 miles with no power steering, hill assist, ABS, or stability control and I appreciate how amazing the technology is today after a 30 minute battle with 305 section front tires. Its not fun. And not to be bragging about it but I m a pretty good person body wise, I lift weights 4 days a week regularly. And that steering wheel destroyed my arms and shoulders.
LOL. I served in military 42 years ago driving tank with all mechanical friction and I was 140 pounds at that time. I had to push all my body with both arms and legs just to turn that thing. Eventually I got used to it.
 
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UnhandledException

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So they said the main fuse along with fusebox need to be changed. There is no power going to PCM (or part of PCM). Also battery needs to be changed.

They are saying $590 or so to change the battery, reprogram it, change the fuse box as well.

What are your thoughts?

i told them i could change the battery myself but the foreman said batteries in these cars need to be reprogrammed and unless i have the computer they do, i cant do that
 

WildHorse

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Tomster

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I call bullshit. If you have a warranty, then they should fix it. I would have started with a new battery and gone from there, but, well.....

You are responsible for the cost of a new battery. They don't cost $590.

The battery doesn't need to be programmed, however using forscan, you tell the vehicle there is a new battery to avoid charging issues. The car re-learns the new battery.
 
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UnhandledException

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$590 is not battery. Its battery and main fuse and fusebox (they said main fuse is part of the fusebox).

they are saying i may have jumped the car wrong and caused the damage and that the main fuse does not die on its own
 

Ninjak

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..................

Not sure what state you are in, but a battery does not cost that much. I think I paid 135 for mines. I had codes thrown when I needed to replace the battery on my 17, the same thing happened on my 16 F150 as well. In S. FL you will get 3 years.....maybe 4 out of a battery.

Edit: So this is for everything ? Still.....seems a bit off, but maybe not. Not sure what that should cost as I have never had a issue like what you are describing.
 

Tomster

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Do not admit anything that would void your warranty. The problem occurred before you jumpstarted it.
 

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UnhandledException

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Guys,

You are not reading my messages. $590 is not battery. It is battery and main fuse and fusebox and labor for all.
 

WildHorse

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you tell the vehicle there is a new battery to avoid charging issues.
If the replacement battery is fully charged, there will be no issues. To @ O/P, ask them to show you EXACTLY what the problem is in the fuse box, post a few pics if you can. Sound like they're taking a stab in the dark.
 

Tomster

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If the replacement battery is fully charged, there will be no issues. To @ O/P, ask them to show you EXACTLY what the problem is in the fuse box, post a few pics if you can. Sound like they're taking a stab in the dark.
Yes, if the battery is 100% charged. Often times it is not


Edited to add:
I agree. This sounds like a fundraiser. Furthermore, it is warranty work that should be covered.

He should have started with a fresh battery.
 

JAJ

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Going back to topic....

How do I know battery might be the cause? Can it be a wider issue?

the errors car gives me now when I start are:

- Service power steering
- No ABS
- No hill assist
- No stabilitrak

Obviously steering wheel is very heavy.

Disconnecting battery didnt do anything.

I am happy to pay for battery and try it out, I just dont understand how battery can be the culprit here.
There was a recent post on this forum that said that when the modules that control large electrical loads see a low battery condition, they shut themselves down to conserve power. That'd be things like magride, steering, abs, and so on. I don't know if it's true, but it makes sense and it explains what you're seeing.
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