Add me to the list nobody wants to be on .....

[honeybadger]

Not sure what the guy who spent $30K did but it does not cost more than $6K to rebuild the Voodoo short block even with sleeves.

Oh. Yes it does. Very much, yes it does.

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[Dominator961]

Even using Forscan to modify a single parameter will show up on Ford's computer as car having been modified. I love how people quote the Magnusson-Moss act and say how the dealership has to prove it. Honestly, all they have to do is come up with a reasonable excuse(whether it was the actual cause or not) and say because of ____, you blew your motor. In the end, it's up to you to do the leg work, possibly get a lawyer, and a lot of headache to get the situation resolved. Other than turning on the trans temp and removing resonators(which pretty much voids exhaust warranty), I don't dare touch the motor in any way. That's a $25k+ gamble I'm not willing to take.

What these people FAIL TO REALIZE Is the Magnusson-Moss act is for service and repair. Not modifying your car for increasing hp / tq.
I love how people think it includes power adders or modifying.
I die laughing when people think ford has to prove the aftermarket part is the cause of engine failure.
Ford doesn’t have to prove anything once a tune is in place.

 

[Dominator961]

Not sure what the guy who spent $30K did but it does not cost more than $6K to rebuild the Voodoo short block even with sleeves.

Sorry brother. You’re wrong.
We’re not talking a stock rebuild.
He added pistons, rods, sleeves, head work, etc. don’t forget labor.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

a lawyer is expensive and it’s a long drawn out process. I’m curious if you have links to them winning a case.

The links need to show costs to litigate didn't exceed the value of what was one. I watched a very stubborn person spend $2,500 to fight a parking ticket. They happened to lose, but if they had won the case, I would not consider that actually winning.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Listen Kiddo. Why do you think ford “has” to prove it?

Right. A manufacturer can just say no and they you have to accept that or go to court. They may have to prove it in court, but its not to criminal standards. More like Judge Judy. For a tune, Ford pretty much just has to show that a tune can cause the type of failure you have. Unless you can prove all tunes you ever ran did NOT have such a flaw and did NOT produce more power than stock, you likely lose. A judge, jury, arbitrator, etc are UNLIKELY to believe a tune or some other mods were not done for the purpose of making more power. More power is harder on parts. If the failing part is one of them,.......

 

[olaosunt]

Oh. Yes it does. Very much, yes it does.

I can’t argue with you on that since I know you have just done it .
I guess labor will vary but assuming you starting with an intact block/crank :
$1500 for the toughest Oliver I beam rods($1000 for H tuff beams)
$1000-1500 tops for pistons including rings
$250 for main and rod bearings
$350 for ARP main stud kit .
$2000-2500 for sleeves installed

=$4600-$6100 in parts for block rebuild
Balance of crank and assembly cost will vary .

$250 extra for billet OPG/ crank gear, $350 for head studs

Obviously much more if you built the top end as well .

Not MPR or MMR but I got a quote from what I would consider to be a very reputable engine builder to build/sleeve a Voodoo block for less than $6K.

 

[olaosunt]

I can’t argue with you on that since I know you have just done it .
I guess labor will vary but assuming you starting with an intact block/crank :
$1500 for the toughest Oliver I beam rods($1000 for H tuff beams)
$1000-1500 tops for pistons including rings
$250 for main and rod bearings
$350 for ARP main stud kit .
$2000-2500 for sleeves installed

=$4600-$6100 in parts for block rebuild
Balance of crank and assembly cost will vary .

$250 extra for billet OPG/ crank gear, $350 for head studs

Obviously much more if you built the top end as well .

Not MPR or MMR but I got a quote from what I would consider to be a very reputable engine builder to build/sleeve a Voodoo block for less than $6K.

And if you plan to keep power under 1000 whp sleeves are not really necessary....except for perhaps durability like in road racing .

 

[honeybadger]

I can’t argue with you on that since I know you have just done it .
I guess labor will vary but assuming you starting with an intact block/crank :
$1500 for the toughest Oliver I beam rods($1000 for H tuff beams)
$1000-1500 tops for pistons including rings
$250 for main and rod bearings
$350 for ARP main stud kit .
$2000-2500 for sleeves installed

=$4600-$6100 in parts for block rebuild
Balance of crank and assembly cost will vary .

$250 extra for billet OPG/ crank gear, $350 for head studs

Obviously much more if you built the top end as well .

Not MPR or MMR but I got a quote from what I would consider to be a very reputable engine builder to build/sleeve a Voodoo block for less than $6K.

But that's just the short block. I'd argue outside of the OPG, the part of the Voodoo in most need of upgrades is the valve train.

If one is rebuilding a voodoo because it blew up, good chance you had piston to valve contact, so both will need to be rebuilt.

$6k is VERY optimistic in my opinion.

 

[Nicky Pass]

This is why I’m keeping my car stock! I may be in the minority, but what attracted me to this car is the fact it really needs nothing to be an awesome car. Every toy car I’ve owned, if had to add exhaust, tunes, stiffening....this one is awesome from the factory. All of the money people spend on modding a GT350 is kind of crazy....headers get you what....25hp for over $2k installed? With some people having these engines fail stock...I wouldn’t want to risk it. But...to each is own! Mod away...but realize the possible consequences.

 

[olaosunt]

But that's just the short block. I'd argue outside of the OPG, the part of the Voodoo in most need of upgrades is the valve train.

If one is rebuilding a voodoo because it blew up, good chance you had piston to valve contact, so both will need to be rebuilt.

$6k is VERY optimistic in my opinion.

I can’t argue that rebuilding the top end as well can be done for $6K as that is quite evident in your build

I would says that in addition to the OPG ,the rods are also a weak link (don’t think they are forged ) especially if you want to boost the motor .
As you and others have documented the pistons are a high quality forged Mahle and I could argue do not have to be replaced (if they are not damaged )

I bent 3 rods in my car (whipple /3.5 pulley) so I am breaking down my “spare engine “ and sending the short block off to be built . I will be upgrading the rods to the GT 350 specific Manley but may or may not repacks the pistons . The bearings are new so not sure if they need upgrading .
Might be an inexpensive upgrade to consider (at a minimum)for anyone wanting to boost their car. .


The block with bent rods probably has damaged Plasma lining so will need to be sleeved . I am sure the pistons are probably damaged too so they will upgraded with the rods and will definitely need new bearings.
Quote to rebuild /sleeve that block like I said before was under $6K

 

[fpa1974]

I would says that in addition to the OPG ,the rods are also a weak link (don’t think they are forged ) especially if you want to boost the motor .
As you and others have documented the pistons are a high quality forged Mahle and I could argue do not have to be replaced (if they are not damaged )

The rods are forged indeed (at least according to the 2019 supplement)

 

[olaosunt]

The rods are forged indeed (at least according to the 2019 supplement)

I see. I wonder how they compare to the direct replacement Manley H beams ?
May be just skip the Manley H beams and go to the Oliver I beams ?
The H-tuff Manley beams may also be another option but neither the H tuff or Oliver beams will work with OEM type piston (JE/diamond )

Mahle does have the cobra jet piston(2618 alloy ) that will work with either of the better rods .

 

[olaosunt]

I see. I wonder how they compare to the direct replacement Manley H beams ?
May be just skip the Manley H beams and go to the Oliver I beams ?
The H-tuff Manley beams may also be another option but neither the H tuff or Oliver beams will work with OEM type piston (JE/diamond )

Mahle does have the cobra jet piston(2618 alloy ) that will work with either of the better rods .

Regarding the Manley H beams below is a direct quote from my engine builder


“The Manley GT350 Specific Rod's are a H-Beam design but still very stout, still capable of 1100-1200 wheel. The Voodoo's use a smaller Wrist pin and Lightened small end of the rod. On Flat Plane Crank engine's you always want to keep the rotating assembly as light as possible as the first order Inherit Vibration's increase with weight so a heavier Rod reduces RPM capability and increases vibration.”

 

[CANTWN4LSN]

Always found the bottom line on that supplement interesting as a non-metallurgist/non-engineer/non-petroleum expert/non-mechanic and considering how many on here "baby" their engines under 4k until they hit 190 degrees. Now I'm not saying get in cold and immediately take it to 8000rpm but seems pretty clear you can certainly get up to 6-8k below 190 very safely per that line from Ford.

 

[Zitrosounds]

I can’t argue that rebuilding the top end as well can be done for $6K as that is quite evident in your build

I would says that in addition to the OPG ,the rods are also a weak link (don’t think they are forged ) especially if you want to boost the motor .

Regarding the Manley H beams below is a direct quote from my engine builder

“The Manley GT350 Specific Rod's are a H-Beam design but still very stout, still capable of 1100-1200 wheel. The Voodoo's use a smaller Wrist pin and Lightened small end of the rod. On Flat Plane Crank engine's you always want to keep the rotating assembly as light as possible as the first order Inherit Vibration's increase with weight so a heavier Rod reduces RPM capability and increases vibration.”

Your engine builder didn't tell you the GT350 has forged rods?

The worst is when people comment on something but really don't know or understand the topic fully.

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