Which camber plates, mm or vorslag?

[petstang]

Same here, Track Pack with FP Springs and Sways

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[Onyx]

I really don't think you can go wrong with what others here have said. I had Vorshlag CC plates on my STI and was very happy with them. When it came time for me to get plates for my GT350R I chose the Vorshlag's again. Yes they are more expensive but with most things in life you get what you pay for. I like that the Vorshag plates do Chamber as well as caster which is why I didn't choose the Steeda ones. I also like that the Vorshlag's come with a metal top hat, I didn't notice a difference in NVH that people are saying VS the factory top hats. There are some good choices out there but for me Vorshlag is the way to go for my answer.

 

[Mustang_Eh]

MM plates are a great plate for sure and definitely the "standard" IMHO . I have put them on four of my Fox bodies and my new PP2 car. I got slightly over 2.5 degrees on them without opening up my towers which a lot of people said was impossible. However, I have dialed back to 2 degrees since the car will see more Cars and Coffee than track until next year.

How is your experience with MM plates thus far? Any noise? I also have a PP2 and looking to get 2/2.5 degrees for daily with 4-6 track day events a year. I would prefer to start with 2 but might need more to tuck in the front tire poke.

 

[foxcoupefan]

How is your experience with MM plates thus far? Any noise? I also have a PP2 and looking to get 2/2.5 degrees for daily with 4-6 track day events a year. I would prefer to start with 2 but might need more to tuck in the front tire poke.

MM makes top notch stuff and always have. I have had fully MM equipped Fox bodies for years with never an issue. The MM plates didn't add any noise at all. Honestly noise in this car doesn't bother me because it rarely gets driven. I run 2 degrees neg currently and it pretty much eliminated the poke which really wasn't an issue for me. I look at the PP2 car as function and that's exactly what it does; function. I hope to get it on the track next year and will go with around 3 degrees. The car will be trailered so driving to and from the track is not a concern.

I really like the looks of the Vorshlag plates, but I don't see them cutting my lap times or being substantially more heavy duty for over double the price. Nice stuff for sure and I am not a price shopper whatsoever however, I do take value in to account and the MM plates meet my requirements. Most of what I have done and will do to my car is all about function and the MM plates function as intended.

Good luck.

 

[Dominator961]

MM makes top notch stuff and always have. I have had fully MM equipped Fox bodies for years with never an issue. The MM plates didn't add any noise at all. Honestly noise in this car doesn't bother me because it rarely gets driven. I run 2 degrees neg currently and it pretty much eliminated the poke which really wasn't an issue for me. I look at the PP2 car as function and that's exactly what it does; function. I hope to get it on the track next year and will go with around 3 degrees. The car will be trailered so driving to and from the track is not a concern.

I really like the looks of the Vorshlag plates, but I don't see them cutting my lap times or being substantially more heavy duty for over double the price. Nice stuff for sure and I am not a price shopper whatsoever however, I do take value in to account and the MM plates meet my requirements. Most of what I have done and will do to my car is all about function and the MM plates function as intended.

Good luck.

Well said!

 

[Mustang_Eh]

MM makes top notch stuff and always have. I have had fully MM equipped Fox bodies for years with never an issue. The MM plates didn't add any noise at all. Honestly noise in this car doesn't bother me because it rarely gets driven. I run 2 degrees neg currently and it pretty much eliminated the poke which really wasn't an issue for me. I look at the PP2 car as function and that's exactly what it does; function. I hope to get it on the track next year and will go with around 3 degrees. The car will be trailered so driving to and from the track is not a concern.

I really like the looks of the Vorshlag plates, but I don't see them cutting my lap times or being substantially more heavy duty for over double the price. Nice stuff for sure and I am not a price shopper whatsoever however, I do take value in to account and the MM plates meet my requirements. Most of what I have done and will do to my car is all about function and the MM plates function as intended.

Good luck.

I hear ya. I'm down with the function, but this is my daily so I have to compromise. Thanks for the info.

 

[MikeR397]

I got my R aligned at Ford after the Steeda plates went on. I’m a little confused about the results. I asked for -2.1 front and -1.25 rear and got Mis matched front cambers at -2.1 and -2.3 passenger and the rear was only done to -1.1 instead of -1.25.

Also, how was the driver rear at -1.6 initially (car has never been aligned and I bought it new 2600 miles ago) and then moved to -1.1 and the toe stayed the exact same? I presume this car has rear toe adjustment and the machine kept the toe the same?

In any event, why are 3 of my 4 requested specs not done? They charged 2.5hrs of time did this. I gave them the ford specs and said just do that except -2.1 front camber as the only change. The tech was gone so I couldn’t ask and was hoping to get some indepentanf details here first. It’s close enough for me to test out, but also concerned about mismatched front cambers.

Edit: my rears prior had actually been wearing pretty well, and concerned they now too so much negative out it will cause outsides to wear fast. I don’t understand these before or after specs!

So 2 track days on my fronts before plates went on, just did 2 more this spring..I’m done dickin around and just going to max these out at -2.8 or whatever they can get to. Tired of chording the outsides!

The rears probably have 2 or 3 more track days on them, but they definitely need more negative camber too and are barely wearing on the inside at all but the outside grooves are gone.

 

[jmn444]

I'm trying -3.9 front this coming friday... -2.6 was fast but still seemed like too much outside wear and temps were hotter outside than inside... technically, left will be -3.9 and right -3.6 as that's what maxing out the oem plates (2019) and adding maxed out camber bolts got me... rears seem okay at -2.5 for now both in temps and in wear... but will see as more laps are put on it!

 

[tedj101]

I'm trying -3.9 front this coming friday... -2.6 was fast but still seemed like too much outside wear and temps were hotter outside than inside... technically, left will be -3.9 and right -3.6 as that's what maxing out the oem plates (2019) and adding maxed out camber bolts got me... rears seem okay at -2.5 for now both in temps and in wear... but will see as more laps are put on it!

FWIW, I am running -3.2 at the front and am thinking about dropping back to 3.0. I'm definitely getting to the inside of the fronts with that setting (mostly track use).

<TED>

 

[jmn444]

FWIW, I am running -3.2 at the front and am thinking about dropping back to 3.0. I'm definitely getting to the inside of the fronts with that setting (mostly track use).

<TED>

what tires? I'm on cup2's and the insides look almost untouched... I'll take the tools to back it off while there though and see what works best...

 

[jmn444]

also what toe are you running?

 

[JAJ]

Don't lose track of the way Michelin builds the MPSC2: it has different rubber on the inner and outer faces of the tread belt. The outer band appears to be a lot softer and wears faster than the inner band.

If you want to use tread wear as a guide to camber settings, then do your setup with a tire that's got the same rubber across the whole tread face.

 

[jmn444]

Don't lose track of the way Michelin builds the MPSC2: it has different rubber on the inner and outer faces of the tread belt. The outer band appears to be a lot softer and wears faster than the inner band.

If you want to use tread wear as a guide to camber settings, then do your setup with a tire that's got the same rubber across the whole tread face.

yeah, I get it, i'm also going by temps though... and IMO the wear isn't right even for the compound differences, but let me know your thoughts, this is after 75 laps at gingerman:

 

[jmn444]

this is "new" (sorry had wrong pic earlier... tooooo many stacks of tires apparently lol)

View attachment 369580

 

[MikeR397]

Those two last posts are different tires.

I just cranked my plates all the way in and told them to max the negative camber on front and rear and get toe as close to ford track suggestions as possible. Go from there.

For now, 4 track days is all my front cup 2 will last, and rears are probably 6-7 track days I’m guessing (only 4 so far but more balanced wear and have remnants of tread pattern on outside still, not quite to wear bars in center/inside.

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