BMR Tech Tip: Check those axle-to-spindle retaining nuts!

[Dr. Norts]

if you check your spindle nuts and you can turn them with the torque wrench set to 150 ft/lbs, can you just torque the nuts that are on there to the 150 ft/ lbs and call it a day?

Or if they are loose is it recommended to remove the current ones and install new ones?

This is just the rear axle nuts correct?

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[ctandc72]

I think it's hit or miss. The axle nuts on my '17 V6 (it had @ 1K miles if that at the time) were DEFINITELY not torqued to spec when I tore my car apart to install a 3.55 pumpkin. I used new axle nuts and torqued to the BMR 'spec'. Every now and again I'll get a small 'creak' type noise, normally only hear it when first pulling off from being parked. If it gets worse - and I have to go back in there, at less than $50 a pop, odds are I'll replace the hubs, go ahead and throw in set of GT350 half shafts - I've PP toe links and bearings to install anyway.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Can anybody verify the nut size? (Rear axle hub retaining nut). Is it 36mm? CCPZ-3B477-G seems small.

 

[moffetts]

Rear is 32MM, front is 34 or 36 I think.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Rear is 32MM, front is 34 or 36 I think.

Thanks. The part Ford sold me looks like a 31 or maybe 32. I was just used to the castle nut style hub retainers, and these new ones looked too different.

Im getting the low speed pop on accel and decel, and I checked the torque and the nuts are tight so Im going to place the hub. I may also be hearing some squealing, but its hard to tell if thats the brake pads back there or not. The other side is quiet so migh be the hub.

This side was replaced once before (you could wiggle the wheel so Ford did that one under warranty over a year ago). Now I have noises but no wheel wiggle yet as far as I can tell. Im assuming the hub is on its way out, and as much as I track and autox the car I want to be sure the hubs are not moving around under load.

 

[BmacIL]

if you check your spindle nuts and you can turn them with the torque wrench set to 150 ft/lbs, can you just torque the nuts that are on there to the 150 ft/ lbs and call it a day?

Or if they are loose is it recommended to remove the current ones and install new ones?

This is just the rear axle nuts correct?

If the material is yielded from the factory torque, going to 150 is not going to get the same clamp load as you're in the plastic range of the deformation curve. Best to start with a new nut.

 

[NightmareMoon]

New hub and nut installed and its quiet back there again (which tells me at least I didn’t completely misdiagnose the ping noise).

If I only removed the upper camber link and the spindle end of the camber arm,
(besides the hub itself) Im guessing I don’t need to have the alignment checked, right?

 

[TexasRebel]

New hub and nut installed and its quiet back there again (which tells me at least I didn’t completely misdiagnose the ping noise).

If I only removed the upper camber link and the spindle end of the camber arm,
(besides the hub itself) Im guessing I don’t need to have the alignment checked, right?

If you changed any parts, you absolutely need an alignment.
If you didn't change parts, but just disassembled and reassembled you might get by, but $80 vs. the price of tires... might as well check it.

 

[Lime1GT]

Here's the Loctite Threadlocking Guide. http://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/threadlocker-user-guide%20(1)pdf

If the fasteners you checked are already tight you could always supplement with a small drop of Loctite 290 wicking threadlocker.

 

[fightermatt]

I'm dealing with this now after replacing a bad wheel bearing. Replaced with timken but re-used the factory nuts and I'm getting clicking and popping from the drivers side, same day of replacement. I stopped by the dealership and picked up replacement nuts but I'm wondering if bmr can tell us what size but they used so I can pick up some better nuts from Stafford, because I think maybe the softness of the ford nuts might be the problem. Since bmr is having solid results from a nut replacement. Anyone know?

 

[mindys]

I'm dealing with this now after replacing a bad wheel bearing. Replaced with timken but re-used the factory nuts and I'm getting clicking and popping from the drivers side, same day of replacement. I stopped by the dealership and picked up replacement nuts but I'm wondering if bmr can tell us what size but they used so I can pick up some better nuts from Stafford, because I think maybe the softness of the ford nuts might be the problem. Since bmr is having solid results from a nut replacement. Anyone know?

No, I replaced the nuts and it didn't help. Torqued to 150 ft-lbs + 1/8th turn. Still clicking horribly from driver side. Today I checked the torque, was more than 200 ft-lbs. Tightened it a bit more. Seems like that decreased the clicking. I might just keep tightening it bit by bit until it is all gone. If the thread fails, no problems. I would assume that in this case the nut should fail before the axle thread.

 

[fightermatt]

No, I replaced the nuts and it didn't help. Torqued to 150 ft-lbs + 1/8th turn. Still clicking horribly from driver side. Today I checked the torque, was more than 200 ft-lbs. Tightened it a bit more. Seems like that decreased the clicking. I might just keep tightening it bit by bit until it is all gone. If the thread fails, no problems. I would assume that in this case the nut should fail before the axle thread.

You replaced the nuts with something other than the Ford replacement? Do you remember the size and pitch?

 

[mindys]

You replaced the nuts with something other than the Ford replacement? Do you remember the size and pitch?

I used Ford nuts. Can't tell you the thread details.

 

[zrwhat]

Finally got the car back out last weekend and took a round trip of 60 miles with the drag radials on. About half way through the trip it started to get a knocking noise at low speed on the passenger rear, sounded like either a loose hub or axle nut. The hub felt nice and tight as far as the bearing goes so I picked up a new axle nut and went with the 150ft-lbs +1/8 turn with red loctite route. Had a chance to drive it yesterday and it was twice as loud but the noise would stop when on the brakes, sound like a bad wheel bearing or something with the rear brake (I've got Baer SS4's)?

 

[Bomorgan123]

Finally got the car back out last weekend and took a round trip of 60 miles with the drag radials on. About half way through the trip it started to get a knocking noise at low speed on the passenger rear, sounded like either a loose hub or axle nut. The hub felt nice and tight as far as the bearing goes so I picked up a new axle nut and went with the 150ft-lbs +1/8 turn with red loctite route. Had a chance to drive it yesterday and it was twice as loud but the noise would stop when on the brakes, sound like a bad wheel bearing or something with the rear brake (I've got Baer SS4's)?

Were you able to get it figured out yet?

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