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Go to rockauto, get the timken bearings, it's an easy job, torque everything to spec; there is a post on here with all the suspension torque specs. I torqued my axle nuts to 150 plus a quarter turn based on another post on the forum. Get new axle nuts from the dealership or rockauto if they...

Just in case others are searching for solutions, here is what I have found. Make sure the axle-spindle nut, or whatever it is actually called, hasn't started backing off and let the wheel bearing begin to separate; also make sure all the bolted joints connecting the rear knuckle to the car are...

You replaced the nuts with something other than the Ford replacement? Do you remember the size and pitch?

I'm dealing with this now after replacing a bad wheel bearing. Replaced with timken but re-used the factory nuts and I'm getting clicking and popping from the drivers side, same day of replacement. I stopped by the dealership and picked up replacement nuts but I'm wondering if bmr can tell us...

It was the left rear wheel bearing, pulled it completely off the car, it had some slop in it. I already ordered new ones last night, but i cleaned the splines up with a wired brush and reassembled everything with the hub nuts torqued to 150 instead of 94 (I think it is). No more play and the...

I'm pulling the hub today to check it, I would describe the sound as more of a drone at speed, or maybe really really loud tires.

As speed increases, noise increases, if I put the trans in neutral while rolling down the road, the noise and vibration stays consistent with the speed of the vehicle. When I accelerate, as the speed increases, the noise and vibration increase. The noise and feel, sounds a lot like what is...

Also forgot to mention, checked all bearings today, zero play in all of them. Checked the torque on the subframe bolts and the hub nuts. The car is lowered on vogtland springs 1".

I have a 2016 gtpp manual with about 49000 miles, I've read the post about the driveline vibe issues, which has me a little concerned because I'm getting a roaring sound from the rear end. It is pretty loud and it just started, noticed on my 1 hour drive home from work this morning. To me it...

Update for those who might be interested, I purchased the vogtland sport lowering springs and koni adjustables. Only been on for a couple days, but my initial impression is that the car is less bouncy, and stays flatter during cornering, breaking and acceleration. It is stiffer than the pp set...

Thanks, I'm also considering vogtland they are a good bit stiffer than pp springs, or steeda ultralights.

Don't want to hijack the thread, but the wheel gap in the front is massive, I'd like to get rid of most of that, I think 1" or a tad more will do the trick. The sp083 is significantly stiffer that my pp springs, will it truly be drivable on the road. I want a performance bias but I don't want...

Being that it's a DD, 1" or 1.5" in the front a little less in the back and I'm pairing the springs with konis. Was going to do yellows, but was happy with my oranges on the s197.

My pp dampers will be available in a couple weeks

Having a hard time selecting springs, I had frpp k springs on my s197 I liked them but I can't find what the rate was; so I'm not sure how stiff to go for the s550. It's a daily driver but I want it to be biased toward performance. Anybody know what would be close to k springs performance on...

I've considered the track package, but I'm leaning towards steeda ultralights and konis right now. I've got until March to make a decision, so any other input is appreciated.

I think I'm going to go with less of a drop than I initially was, but I think I'm still going to use konis

Konis handle better, track dampers are more comfortable, thanks.

Sorry, I have never heard the term crashy, but from what y'all have said konis will provide better handling than pp dampers but will be to soft on the initial upcycle. The track dampers will work better overall.

I will look into the track dampers, thanks