Torquing strut top bolt

[Mach01]

So I'd need torque down the strut top bolt. Thought this was possible on ground but no it's not. Got a bit of a rattle, think it may be this. When is it best to do this? I intend to pull the assembly out, dismantle and inspect all, esp. the bearing cup, put it back together, ensure its torqued correctly.

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[rvlyssup]

You'll need a strut nut socket in 21mm.

Torque it to 76lb-ft.

 

[Mach01]

You'll need a strut nut socket in 21mm.

Torque it to 76lb-ft.

Thanks! Can someone please post a link to one that is being used please? I looked all over web for one but could not find one I felt would definitely work, as most were stated to be designed for Allen wrench to be inserted. Any idea where to get one locally? I'm near Sacramento.

Thanks again!

 

[15RRGT]

It's just a deep well 21mm socket.

 

[Gibbo205]

What is torque for rear struts please?

 

[rvlyssup]

What is torque for rear struts please?

Strut to Spindle - 184 lb-ft
Stabilizer to Strut - 85 lb-ft
Caliper Bolts - 85 lb-ft
Rear Sub-frame Bolts - 129 lb-ft
Rear Shock Upper Bolts - 66 lb-ft
Rear Shock Strut Nut - 22 lb-ft

 

[Legionofone]

You need to hold the shaft and then torque the nut. It is a PITA, you can use special tools but you can just get it good and tight and the nylock will do its thing.

 

[Mach01]

It's just a deep well 21mm socket.

So when using this with assembly on the car, it just spins the shaft. At this point though I am sure I am torqued down solid. Thank you.

 

[15RRGT]

So when using this with assembly on the car, it just spins the shaft. At this point though I am sure I am torqued down solid. Thank you.

Ok sorry, I didn't have any issue with the shaft spinning. Mine just tightened right down without any issue. Glad to hear you got it licked!

 

[Gibbo205]

Rear Shock Strut Nut - 22 lb-ft

This is the one on the top on the shock yes? The one I had to undo in order to be able to see the bump stop.

If so for now just blue loctite and used grips on the flat part and hand tightened it, will torque it to the above later.

 

[rvlyssup]

This is the one on the top on the shock yes? The one I had to undo in order to be able to see the bump stop.

If so for now just blue loctite and used grips on the flat part and hand tightened it, will torque it to the above later.

Yes sir.

Unlike the front struts, the shaft will not move so tightening the upper shock strut nut is way easier. I didn't need to use Loctite, my FRPP kit also came with new hardware.

 

[Gibbo205]

Yes sir.

Unlike the front struts, the shaft will not move so tightening the upper shock strut nut is way easier. I didn't need to use Loctite, my FRPP kit also came with new hardware.

I found it did spin when trying to tighten the last bit so I just held the flat bit with grips and tightened, was still easy enough.

 

[rabbit_eater]

This was the most confusing part of my Steeda spring install. Some googling led me to a trick that worked perfectly though. You'll need a large 22mm socket to hold the strut nut, and a small deep-socket 8mm (if I recall correctly) for the strut rod. Have a friend hold up the strut while you grip the 22mm socket with your hand and tighten via the 8mm spinning counter-clockwise. It will bottom out rather quickly and doesn't require excess torque to get tight due to the locking washer design. Worked like a charm for me.

edit: I did not specify that you first place the 8mm socket on the rod nut, slip the 22mm socket over it holding the strut nut, and then use a ratchet with a slim extension through the 22mm drive to get to the 8mm

 

[ORANG50]

I just got a 12-pt 22mm wrench on there at a really funny angle and used the 8mm socket to tighten it down. When it got close enough, put a 22mm socket on a torque wrench and torqued to spec.

Also had some bumping and thudding before tightening, none afterwards, even though it wasn't far off the mark before torquing to spec.

 

[Tcstang]

I used an impact gun to get everything tight while the car was on the ground. This got the strut bolt tight enough I could torque it to spec without the rod moving.

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