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wildcatgoal - Yeah, I agree but you have to have it to use the mantic clutch, I had a similar shudder with the stock clutch but it was a tad lower in the RPM range, the flywheel moved it up and made it worse. If I could go back in time I would never have bought this clutch and would have gone...

mustang1 I had a failed throwout bearing, transmission wouldn't shift, put in a mantic clutch which was a huge mistake. It feels like if you tried to shift to 4th at 10 mph and accelerate just like it is lugging like crazy. I think that the flywheel made it worse by taking away rotating mass...

@Fred Honestly part throttle any acceleration even maintaining RPM will do it... mustang1 other than my clutch and flywheel and a catch can yes bone fucking stock.

Because I like money and reving costs money and increases wear? I dont mind getting on it but sitting at 3K in 5th while driving down the highway at 60 because if I shift to 6th it fucks itself isn't what I call a quality experience...

I haven't, since I have mods I would prefer not to fight with them and then get charged for something simple. In my car at least in 6th gear at 60-70 is right in this sweet spot of pain for 6th. I try not to ride her at higher revs if I don't need to.

Same here, replaced my battery and it still dies over a weekend, I just hooked up a battery tender...

Hello Everyone! I have a 2016 mustang GT that is about to drive me insane. If I am in 4-6th and down between 1K-2K RPM the damn thing SOMETIMES starts to lug and feel like it is missing horribly, it shakes the car forward and backwards. This is especially bad at 1500 and 1750 RPM I...

What I have started to do is clutch out till it starts to move then in a bit then all the way out quickly. It has helped a bit.

I ordered the Organic but they were out so they upgraded me to the Ceramic. I was worried about it but read that and their claim of keeping drive ability and figured ehh... free 400 dollars. Guess I made the wrong call.

It is very bullshit they call this a "street" clutch. This thing has 0 manners.

Hey guys, I just got a new Mantic clutch, they were out of the organic and upgraded me to the cerametallic clutch. This thing is the worst drive I have ever felt. The shudder in 1st is unbearable. Does anyone know how to fix this or if it is just my life for the next 100k?

I just had a Mantic 9000 metalic and a MGW installed and have similar symptoms, massive shudder at 1500 RPM, jerks when letting out the clutch and lots of weird noise in the transmission. Any updates on this?

Im going to need to see some data showing the factory piece failing at high RPM since I would bet the same piece of on the Coyote and the voodoo.

Modifying as built is super easy and cheap, 30 bux for the usb to obd2 from amazon and then a free program. I fixed my speedo to within .5 of GPS

At this point you need replacement end links. Just use vice grips on the exposed threads behind the nut and see if it will come off. Grab a new end link and be done with it.

If you want to do stupid fast get a supercharger/turbo kit and put it on the stock engine, then start building a 5.2L CPC Coyote with the voodoo heads and built internals and when you have it done you will be ready to swap in the engine and make stupid high HP on an engine strong enough to do it.

I am about to upgrade to the R500, I have the P3 4ohm shallow and it hits like a truck.

It is DEFINITELY not rated that low. I have a R250X1 and these amps are 2-4 ohm max.

So almost everyone said not to shift to first (which is correct) almost no one mentioned why. Since first on these cars is so steep (3.66:1) with 3.73 rear axles you are trying to use a brass syncro to basically speed up your output shaft and clutch to super high RPMs, that is the gear whine...

Selling used cams without pictures of the cam...