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Engine oil? Mobil 1

DivineStrike

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Lol, I'm definitely not a mobil fan but you can't really go wrong with any 0w40 imo. But you shouldn't really use it unless ya need it from what I understand. And I understand it to be that our coyote's have some pretty tight clearances. I'm sticking with the oem 5w20 for now. In a couple oil changes i'll probably switch to Pennz in a 0/5w30. I don't abuse my car but i'm definitely not easy on it, and I change it more frequently than the 10k from the factory due to my driving habits and I live in the south where it's hot and humid. So, using amsoil or any other top tier oil would be a waste money. I do however put amsoil in my bike but that's only 3 qts a change lol...easily justifiable.
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ConspicuousConsumption

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That's called "sponsorship".

.
You think AMG wouldn't put the very best in their engines? Come on, bud. Don't be like that.
 

GTP

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You think AMG wouldn't put the very best in their engines? Come on, bud. Don't be like that.
LOL. Yeah, okay, I get your point. (And my tongue was in my cheek when I wrote that.)

However, my view is that nothing that is sold in a store these days comes about without first going through lofty corporate board rooms, followed by high-floor-number marketing rooms.
IOW, what the public perceives as "very best brand" is more accurately "very best brand recognition". So many different-branded products come from a small handful of large factories.

"Brand" has changed from being a manufacturing source to a marketing/advertising term.

.
 

GTP

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As for the exact oil weight...
Viscosity performance depends on temperature, velocity, and the annulus (space, or gap) in which the oil resides.

If it is a tight-tolerance engine that revs higher than average, then you will need a lower viscosity oil to reach all locations and properly lube the parts.
If the engine is extremely high mileage (e.g. burning oil) then some owners (old timers) might raise the viscosity slightly from the factory recommendation.

The only cause to increase the rated viscosity is in an extra-high ambient temperature, should the cooling not adequately keep the operating temp in normal range (e.g. Arizona).
The extra-low temp case is what the 5W is for. The engine should warm up to normal in spite of it being cold outside.

I guess what I am implying is that it seems riskier to me to arbitrarily decide to raise the viscosity higher than the factory rec.

.
 

BMR Tech

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Auto makers actually put a lot of effort into testing various brands, formulations and viscosities for their flagship and high performance engines.

I think there is definitely some "pull" going on, but do keep in mind how important it is for an auto maker to NOT have engine problems. That is the last thing they want.

Notice the list above, the average price point for those vehicles is extremely high. The engines in those cars feature a lot of engineering in order to make such high power levels while meeting emissions, and lasting through their warranty periods.

If my car was Naturally Aspirated, I would use either Pennz or Amsoil 5w30.

Since my car is supercharged, I rather step up a notch to the 0w40....and luckily every single oil company who offers a 0w40 uses a solid base, with great additive packages - because they have to, in order to get the approvals from the cars mentioned in this thread. Specifically, GT-R...Hellcat...Viper, and European vehicles.
 

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ConspicuousConsumption

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LOL. Yeah, okay, I get your point. (And my tongue was in my cheek when I wrote that.)

However, my view is that nothing that is sold in a store these days comes about without first going through lofty corporate board rooms, followed by high-floor-number marketing rooms.
IOW, what the public perceives as "very best brand" is more accurately "very best brand recognition". So many different-branded products come from a small handful of large factories.

"Brand" has changed from being a manufacturing source to a marketing/advertising term.

.
I fully appreciate that and certainly agree on all points. You're 100% right, and what really kills me is what you said about how just a few plants produce so many different competitor products using the same stuff! Look at Foxconn producing Apple and Samsung phones side by side.

HOWEVER, quality companies that care about their own brand reputation won't put junk in their products because some vendor offers a few thousand bucks more. More likely, all of these products, oil in particular, are probably so similar and so indistinguishable that the better marketing wins. When all else is equal, why not chase the extra cash?

Great topic though.
 
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Niz55

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I am using the Oem oil synthetic blend from Walmart. $17 for 5qrts plus Oem filter from Walmart for $5. I use the ford oil in my Volvo also and works great. I change it every 4-5k in my mustang and 7-8k in the Volvo.
 

GTP

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I fully appreciate that and certainly agree on all points. You're 100% right, and what really kills me is what you said about how just a few plants produce so many different competitor products using the same stuff! Look at Foxconn producing Apple and Samsung phones side by side.

HOWEVER, quality companies that care about their own brand reputation won't put junk in their products because some vendor offers a few thousand bucks more. More likely, all of these products, oil in particular, are probably so similar and so indistinguishable that the better marketing wins. When all else is equal, why not chase the extra cash?

Great topic though.
Right, agreed.

I am not saying that the premier brand does not have good quality (although that is not also a guarantee of high quality either).

But you know that the advertised brand costs more not due (exclusively) to "extra quality" but to offset the high cost of blanket marketing campaigns!
I mean, we all paid 1.63% of the total cost of our Mustangs just to offset Ford advertising .. right?
And only recently did I finally see a Mustang commercial. All 10 seconds of it. (And it was yellow. Just sayin'.)

.
 

r1lovin

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My car is procharged, and I live in colorado. I do some driving in 40* temps. Is 0w-40 ok?
 

BallisticBurrito

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I am using the Oem oil synthetic blend from Walmart. $17 for 5qrts plus Oem filter from Walmart for $5. I use the ford oil in my Volvo also and works great. I change it every 4-5k in my mustang and 7-8k in the Volvo.
How does the OEM filter compare to Wix?

I ran nothing but Mobil 1 and wix filters in my last car. Total overkill considering it was a basic econocar.
 

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Rough Hollow Man

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If you just use a top tier full synthetic oil you can't go wrong...as for me, I'll use Royal Purple for the great protection and the slight increase in MPG it affords.
 

hawkbox

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LOL. Yeah, okay, I get your point. (And my tongue was in my cheek when I wrote that.)

However, my view is that nothing that is sold in a store these days comes about without first going through lofty corporate board rooms, followed by high-floor-number marketing rooms.
IOW, what the public perceives as "very best brand" is more accurately "very best brand recognition". So many different-branded products come from a small handful of large factories.

"Brand" has changed from being a manufacturing source to a marketing/advertising term.

.
Couldnt agree with that more!
 

NvrFinished

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I think gone are the days of bad oils that could ruin an engine. As someone here said, if you choose any of the premium boutique oils for your car in the recommended weight, you really can't go wrong. The only exception would be choosing a better weight as conditions require, such as track days, extremely hot temps, hard driven high HP applications and etc.

I was surprised to learn recently how much has changed in the oil industry due to better quality oils and tight tolerances in quality motors these days. Thinner oils for the most part are recommended for better lubrication and heat extraction. Most of these people running 50w oil because they say they run their motor hard are behind the curve and probably not doing their engines any favors.
 

jasonstang

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My car is procharged, and I live in Colorado. I do some driving in 40* temps. Is 0w-40 ok?
0W is good to -40F which is pretty low.
40 is the operation temperature thickness which is good in places like Arizona and Florida the 100F temperature.
Being CO I don't think you need 40 in the summer, 30 is about the max I would go unless you do a lot of trackdays.
Now, oil is not all about weight. A good oil will have more detergent and viscosity modifier so it will hold it's hot weight longer and suspend any solids inside the oil pan so they get filtered out by the filter.
The misconception is you need thicker oil because thicker oil makes higher pressure and higher pressure supports bearings. In real life, it's overheating oil breaking down the oil causes wear and tear. This is why pretty much all car companies are switching to lower viscosity engine oil because it provides better flow to take heat out of bearings.
At the end of the day, it's about engine design. I've seen Camry's running 0w20 not burning a drop over 300k miles and BMW inline 6 burning 1 qt every 2000 miles at 100k with fancy oil.
 
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ForTehNguyen

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lower viscosity to squeeze out every mpg it can as well
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