Choking_Victim
Well-Known Member
any of you guys running a trans bushing with the MGW or Barton? Currently have a steeda bushing in with the stock shifter and was contemplating removing once I order and install my MGW.
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As far as I know, it's not needed. Do a search on this forum, there's a few threads on people doing this.Any additives needed with RP swap?
I have 3 qts in my garage now.
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I still have mine in place but plan to remove it when I install my drive shaft ..I just don't think it's needed .. It might cut down on cabin noise if removed ? Not that I have any that I can tell ..any of you guys running a trans bushing with the MGW or Barton? Currently have a steeda bushing in with the stock shifter and was contemplating removing once I order and install my MGW.
I'm aware thanks for reply, however I've heard of people still using it (whiteline or steeda)..and was curious of their feedback. Regardless I'll pry remove mine as it was simply a bandaid for the stocker till I picked up the mgw.dont need the bushing when you go to MGW since its solid mounted, Barton is coming out with their solid mount soon
the MGW is indeed a solid mounted shifter.....dont need the bushing when you go to MGW since its solid mounted, Barton is coming out with their solid mount soon
the MGW is indeed a solid mounted shifter.....
BUT....the trans itself can still flex/move under load. This is where the whiteline or steeda bushing insert comes into play.
The MGW removes play in the connection between trans and shifter and the bushing insert removes play in the transmission mount on the crossmember
install both and the entire trans and shifter shouldn't move at all. This is what I will be doing along with amsoil MTF. because racecar
So I popped the trim ring/ shift boot off, worked the rubber boot down from on top, and used some picks and a ratcheting wrench to do a quick readjustment of the shifter from the cockpit. It went through gears fine parked before, so I gave it about another turn of extra left range and then tightened things back down.I noticed that even though I adjusted it properly, It wants to synchro lock me out of first and second some times. Usually after I've stopped or low speed driving. I'm going to double check my adjustment and see if maybe it can go a hair more to the left without an issue, then I'm going to try some Royal Purple Synchromax fluid I guess.
I've had that lockout problem ever since I let Dallas Mustangs install my Spec Stage 2 clutch. I thought the shifter might fix it. Could that just be the pressure plate being too stiff? I don't know. Open to suggestions!
So I popped the trim ring/ shift boot off, worked the rubber boot down from on top, and used some picks and a ratcheting wrench to do a quick readjustment of the shifter from the cockpit. It went through gears fine parked before, so I gave it about another turn of extra left range and then tightened things back down.
I drove it 40 miles, zero issues now. It works great. That alone was worth the price of admission. I have no idea what Dallas Mustang did when they swapped my clutch, but I can tell you that shifter was never removed from the car when the trans was lowered. Bad stuff right there. I'm just glad the damage was to the shifter and not the transmission. Pretty lucky.