ctandc72
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1
A little background.
I had a '17 V6 Mustang 6 speed. Ended up replacing the factory shifter with a Boomba shifter, added a Steeda trans mount insert bushing, installed an Energy Suspension shifter bushing and drained and filled with Royal Purple fluid. I was satisfied with how it shifted - no high RPM lockouts.
Recently got a '19 Base GT 6 speed.
Definite differences in the newest version of the MT82. Same long throw shifter, but the transmission shifts MUCH smoother than the stock '17 did. I did install the Steeda clutch spring (as I did in my '17) and it did exactly what it did before - made the clutch pedal action required a bit more effort and made the release point / pedal action much more predictable.
So I get a thousand miles on the '19 and take it to the drag strip. Got totally locked out of 2nd and 3rd gear at high RPM.
I'd already research the MGW shifter so I pulled the trigger. Ordered from Lethal Performance (it drop ships from MGW) before it shipped I called and spoke with someone at MGW and ended up adding a cylindrical gripper knob and also an adapter for the stock knob that they don't list on the website (they did say it only works on later models - and it' actually made for the GT350).
Race spec / low profile handle.
First off the install videos from MGW ar e great and very thorough. But I will say - I think there is some variance / changes I'm guessing it affects the '18-19 Mustangs.
INSTALL
I used jack stands under the front. I'm a decent sized guy at 6'3 230 and had no issues having room to get everything done. So it's VERY doable in your garage jack stands.
Top 10mm bolt that everyone gripes about...
DO yourself a favor. Don't even try to get it out until you remove the center driveshaft support bracket. I left driveshaft and exhaust installed and just dropping the bracket gave me plenty of room to pull down on the driveshaft while removing the bolt. You can also flatten the heat barrier material that lines the underside of the car. I used a long extension and a hammer to push it more flush with the trans tunnel to give more room.
If you can't get enough leverage on the 10mm wrench to loosen this bolt - use a trick I've used for years. Take another wrench, put the 10mm wrench (I used a flex head ratchet wrench) on the bolt. Now take the second wrench and but the box end over the open end of the 10mm wrench so that you essentially are using it as a breaker bar / extension. Doing this allowed me to break the bolt loose with no issues.
Taking the factory shifter apart to remove it was straight forward.
Removing the 13mm bolt that holds the linkage on top of the transmission - You can get to this bolt from inside the car. Rather easy with a low profile ratchet and socket.
Same goes for installing the MGW top rod / linkage and bolt. I was able to push down and thread that bolt in by hand from up top.
Everything else is straightforward.
TIPS
I took the advice of someone here - and I installed everything permanently except for the (3) bolts that hold the shifter onto the two linkage rods. I just installed those snug. Everything else was installed / loctited at this point (except for heat shield). Also reinstall the trans cross member. Remember to jack up the trans JUST enough to start all (4) crossmember bolts then remove the jack and tighten the bolts.This allows the trans to go where it 'wants' to sit naturally without the jack binding it.
Now I went up top and checked the lockout pin adjustment.
MAKE SURE the 1-2 shift is clean and quick. No nibble etc. If not adjust it per MGW instructions.
Now once it's adjusted, go back under, remove the (3) bolts that hold the shifter in. Them remove the shifter from top, install the boot on the shifter with it out of the car. Then reinstall the shifter. You can finagle it in and get it back mounted on the two linkages. Don't force it. It just needs to go in a certain way.
MODIFYING SHIFT BOOT
So yeah - if you're an idiot like me and don't pay attention to the video - and you actually cut into the leather of the OEM shift boot - there is a fix. It makes the top of the boot loose. I simply held it tight / wrapped on the grommet with the book inside out and tie wrapped it to the grommet. Looks perfect and works great.
NOTE: If you screw up like I did and have to do this, when you're screwing down your adapter / knob, HOLD The shift boot so it won't twist.
Now all that was fine, got it all back together, and I had 1-2 lockout at high RPM. 1-2 was fine otherwise.
Went back out there this morning. Yanked the console and that DAMN boot. and tried to adjust the shifter.
I will email MGW - but essentially I could NOT adjust the pin out (towards the driver side) enough to totally keep the shifter from engaging 1-2 gate. I just kept slowly adjusting the pin until 1-2 was totally clean and smooth. Tightened it down. Then I fought that DAMN BOOT for a while.
Then I asked my wife to help me. I have bit mitts. She has a small hands. I showed her how it needed to mount and she simply did it. I did hold one side so it wouldn't pull out while the installed it the rest of the way. I was thrilled and annoyed at the same time.
So I just got back from the test drive after the shifter adjustment. HOLY CRAP.
7000+ RPM - 1-2 shift is AWESOME. 2-3 takes no push or guidance, don't force it, it goes right into 3rd even at high load / high RPM.
Yes the shifter takes more effort than the factory shifter. To me the factory shifter felt like a spoon in a jar of mayo. Just no feedback at all. It will take some adjustment to get used to the MGW.
This is literally one of the best shifting manual transmissions I've had in 30+ years of driving manual transmissions. I've driven / raced Saginaw, Top loader, Muncie 4 speeds. T5, T56 etc. This thing shifts that good now.
Hope this helps someone who is on the fence about the MGW.
I haven't decided between the Gripper knob or the MGW adapter and my Hurst T handle. I've used a t handle on every daily driver / strip car I've had for 20+ years. Personal preference I guess. The gripper knob is great - but just different for me. The T handle (just my opinion) allows me to let the MGW shifter dictate the shift - if that makes sense.
I had a '17 V6 Mustang 6 speed. Ended up replacing the factory shifter with a Boomba shifter, added a Steeda trans mount insert bushing, installed an Energy Suspension shifter bushing and drained and filled with Royal Purple fluid. I was satisfied with how it shifted - no high RPM lockouts.
Recently got a '19 Base GT 6 speed.
Definite differences in the newest version of the MT82. Same long throw shifter, but the transmission shifts MUCH smoother than the stock '17 did. I did install the Steeda clutch spring (as I did in my '17) and it did exactly what it did before - made the clutch pedal action required a bit more effort and made the release point / pedal action much more predictable.
So I get a thousand miles on the '19 and take it to the drag strip. Got totally locked out of 2nd and 3rd gear at high RPM.
I'd already research the MGW shifter so I pulled the trigger. Ordered from Lethal Performance (it drop ships from MGW) before it shipped I called and spoke with someone at MGW and ended up adding a cylindrical gripper knob and also an adapter for the stock knob that they don't list on the website (they did say it only works on later models - and it' actually made for the GT350).
Race spec / low profile handle.
First off the install videos from MGW ar e great and very thorough. But I will say - I think there is some variance / changes I'm guessing it affects the '18-19 Mustangs.
INSTALL
I used jack stands under the front. I'm a decent sized guy at 6'3 230 and had no issues having room to get everything done. So it's VERY doable in your garage jack stands.
Top 10mm bolt that everyone gripes about...
DO yourself a favor. Don't even try to get it out until you remove the center driveshaft support bracket. I left driveshaft and exhaust installed and just dropping the bracket gave me plenty of room to pull down on the driveshaft while removing the bolt. You can also flatten the heat barrier material that lines the underside of the car. I used a long extension and a hammer to push it more flush with the trans tunnel to give more room.
If you can't get enough leverage on the 10mm wrench to loosen this bolt - use a trick I've used for years. Take another wrench, put the 10mm wrench (I used a flex head ratchet wrench) on the bolt. Now take the second wrench and but the box end over the open end of the 10mm wrench so that you essentially are using it as a breaker bar / extension. Doing this allowed me to break the bolt loose with no issues.
Taking the factory shifter apart to remove it was straight forward.
Removing the 13mm bolt that holds the linkage on top of the transmission - You can get to this bolt from inside the car. Rather easy with a low profile ratchet and socket.
Same goes for installing the MGW top rod / linkage and bolt. I was able to push down and thread that bolt in by hand from up top.
Everything else is straightforward.
TIPS
I took the advice of someone here - and I installed everything permanently except for the (3) bolts that hold the shifter onto the two linkage rods. I just installed those snug. Everything else was installed / loctited at this point (except for heat shield). Also reinstall the trans cross member. Remember to jack up the trans JUST enough to start all (4) crossmember bolts then remove the jack and tighten the bolts.This allows the trans to go where it 'wants' to sit naturally without the jack binding it.
Now I went up top and checked the lockout pin adjustment.
MAKE SURE the 1-2 shift is clean and quick. No nibble etc. If not adjust it per MGW instructions.
Now once it's adjusted, go back under, remove the (3) bolts that hold the shifter in. Them remove the shifter from top, install the boot on the shifter with it out of the car. Then reinstall the shifter. You can finagle it in and get it back mounted on the two linkages. Don't force it. It just needs to go in a certain way.
MODIFYING SHIFT BOOT
So yeah - if you're an idiot like me and don't pay attention to the video - and you actually cut into the leather of the OEM shift boot - there is a fix. It makes the top of the boot loose. I simply held it tight / wrapped on the grommet with the book inside out and tie wrapped it to the grommet. Looks perfect and works great.
NOTE: If you screw up like I did and have to do this, when you're screwing down your adapter / knob, HOLD The shift boot so it won't twist.
Now all that was fine, got it all back together, and I had 1-2 lockout at high RPM. 1-2 was fine otherwise.
Went back out there this morning. Yanked the console and that DAMN boot. and tried to adjust the shifter.
I will email MGW - but essentially I could NOT adjust the pin out (towards the driver side) enough to totally keep the shifter from engaging 1-2 gate. I just kept slowly adjusting the pin until 1-2 was totally clean and smooth. Tightened it down. Then I fought that DAMN BOOT for a while.
Then I asked my wife to help me. I have bit mitts. She has a small hands. I showed her how it needed to mount and she simply did it. I did hold one side so it wouldn't pull out while the installed it the rest of the way. I was thrilled and annoyed at the same time.
So I just got back from the test drive after the shifter adjustment. HOLY CRAP.
7000+ RPM - 1-2 shift is AWESOME. 2-3 takes no push or guidance, don't force it, it goes right into 3rd even at high load / high RPM.
Yes the shifter takes more effort than the factory shifter. To me the factory shifter felt like a spoon in a jar of mayo. Just no feedback at all. It will take some adjustment to get used to the MGW.
This is literally one of the best shifting manual transmissions I've had in 30+ years of driving manual transmissions. I've driven / raced Saginaw, Top loader, Muncie 4 speeds. T5, T56 etc. This thing shifts that good now.
Hope this helps someone who is on the fence about the MGW.
I haven't decided between the Gripper knob or the MGW adapter and my Hurst T handle. I've used a t handle on every daily driver / strip car I've had for 20+ years. Personal preference I guess. The gripper knob is great - but just different for me. The T handle (just my opinion) allows me to let the MGW shifter dictate the shift - if that makes sense.
Sponsored
