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MGW install and review ..

Choking_Victim

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any of you guys running a trans bushing with the MGW or Barton? Currently have a steeda bushing in with the stock shifter and was contemplating removing once I order and install my MGW.
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Socalmustang

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Any additives needed with RP swap?

I have 3 qts in my garage now.

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As far as I know, it's not needed. Do a search on this forum, there's a few threads on people doing this.
 
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smokinzx14r

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any of you guys running a trans bushing with the MGW or Barton? Currently have a steeda bushing in with the stock shifter and was contemplating removing once I order and install my MGW.
I still have mine in place but plan to remove it when I install my drive shaft ..I just don't think it's needed .. It might cut down on cabin noise if removed ? Not that I have any that I can tell ..
 

ForTehNguyen

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dont need the bushing when you go to MGW since its solid mounted, Barton is coming out with their solid mount soon
 

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Choking_Victim

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dont need the bushing when you go to MGW since its solid mounted, Barton is coming out with their solid mount soon
I'm aware thanks for reply, however I've heard of people still using it (whiteline or steeda)..and was curious of their feedback. Regardless I'll pry remove mine as it was simply a bandaid for the stocker till I picked up the mgw.
 

Super Werty

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dont need the bushing when you go to MGW since its solid mounted, Barton is coming out with their solid mount soon
the MGW is indeed a solid mounted shifter.....

BUT....the trans itself can still flex/move under load. This is where the whiteline or steeda bushing insert comes into play.

The MGW removes play in the connection between trans and shifter and the bushing insert removes play in the transmission mount on the crossmember

install both and the entire trans and shifter shouldn't move at all. This is what I will be doing along with amsoil MTF. because racecar
 

pinero61

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the MGW is indeed a solid mounted shifter.....

BUT....the trans itself can still flex/move under load. This is where the whiteline or steeda bushing insert comes into play.

The MGW removes play in the connection between trans and shifter and the bushing insert removes play in the transmission mount on the crossmember

install both and the entire trans and shifter shouldn't move at all. This is what I will be doing along with amsoil MTF. because racecar

My thoughts exactly.
 

gqneon

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I installed my MGW shifter last night - I ordered at the end of May and just picked it up from UPS last night. It is very nice, and definitely is a firm shifting unit. It is well built and very solid. My car is a daily driver. Install was not hard, I left driveshaft and exhaust in place. You just have to have long extensions and I used a flex joint on the rear shifter bushing bolts that were really high up there. The rest was just patience and fitment of very tight tolerances. I used walmart hand soap (I had the exact same jug in my cabinet as their install video lol) and it made the boot part WAY easier.

It shifted all gears with no adjustment but I adjusted it like the video said anyway to make sure. I also put my whiteline transmission bushing back in it while I was under there. There's not question it's going to locate your shift for you.

I noticed that even though I adjusted it properly, It wants to synchro lock me out of first and second some times. Usually after I've stopped or low speed driving. I'm going to double check my adjustment and see if maybe it can go a hair more to the left without an issue, then I'm going to try some Royal Purple Synchromax fluid I guess.

I've had that lockout problem ever since I let Dallas Mustangs install my Spec Stage 2 clutch. I thought the shifter might fix it. Could that just be the pressure plate being too stiff? I don't know. Open to suggestions!
 

ForTehNguyen

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some gave the tip to leave the boot in the sun (theres been lots of it in TX) and it goes on easy. I still want to see what the Barton solid shifter offers before deciding. Too damn hot to do an install anyways. RP fluid bought me some time
 

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gqneon

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I noticed that even though I adjusted it properly, It wants to synchro lock me out of first and second some times. Usually after I've stopped or low speed driving. I'm going to double check my adjustment and see if maybe it can go a hair more to the left without an issue, then I'm going to try some Royal Purple Synchromax fluid I guess.

I've had that lockout problem ever since I let Dallas Mustangs install my Spec Stage 2 clutch. I thought the shifter might fix it. Could that just be the pressure plate being too stiff? I don't know. Open to suggestions!
So I popped the trim ring/ shift boot off, worked the rubber boot down from on top, and used some picks and a ratcheting wrench to do a quick readjustment of the shifter from the cockpit. It went through gears fine parked before, so I gave it about another turn of extra left range and then tightened things back down.

I drove it 40 miles, zero issues now. It works great. That alone was worth the price of admission. I have no idea what Dallas Mustang did when they swapped my clutch, but I can tell you that shifter was never removed from the car when the trans was lowered. Bad stuff right there. I'm just glad the damage was to the shifter and not the transmission. Pretty lucky.
 

Choking_Victim

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So I popped the trim ring/ shift boot off, worked the rubber boot down from on top, and used some picks and a ratcheting wrench to do a quick readjustment of the shifter from the cockpit. It went through gears fine parked before, so I gave it about another turn of extra left range and then tightened things back down.

I drove it 40 miles, zero issues now. It works great. That alone was worth the price of admission. I have no idea what Dallas Mustang did when they swapped my clutch, but I can tell you that shifter was never removed from the car when the trans was lowered. Bad stuff right there. I'm just glad the damage was to the shifter and not the transmission. Pretty lucky.

Glad u lucked out man...bad stuff indeed on their half assed efforts.
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