REISCHE PERFORMANCE 170° PERFORMANCE THERMOSTAT

[LethalPerformance]

Anybody running these lower t-stats with a whipple or procharger? Do they include these in the kits? Would make sense since you are adding a large intercooler in front of the radiorator.

We run the Reische Performance 170 thermostat in our Whipple powered 2015 and the car runs great. Whipple does include a 160deg thermostat with their kit however we prefer to use the Reische 170 as it's specifically built for the 4V 5.0L cars.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks, Jared

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[09jsw]

Its shiny and new so people must have it if they're told they need it! If your tune is so aggressive you need a lower cylinder head temp to combat detonation, find a new tuner.

I guess you are right, you are prob a little more educated on the 5.0 and tuning then any of the top builders and tuners in this country.

 

[pinero61]

Always one of my first mods. Anytime you can keep temps down during spirited driving is a good thing.

 

[Poppacapp]

So based on the dyno @ 200 degrees comment, for future reference, what temps should you be at for the best dyno outcome? 200+ head temp? Coolant?

 

[beefcake]

we always recommend 3 back to back pulls

that's what we d o when we do dynos, start out around 170 or so, and 3 back to back, so you can see all the numbers, etc..

 

[Poppacapp]

we always recommend 3 back to back pulls

that's what we d o when we do dynos, start out around 170 or so, and 3 back to back, so you can see all the numbers, etc..

Thank you sir... i didn't think about the 3 pulls. 3rd pull should definitely be up to temp. I need to go get a baseline on mine with just the SW h-pipe cat back. Auto car.... meh... 360-370?

 

[beefcake]

Thank you sir... i didn't think about the 3 pulls. 3rd pull should definitely be up to temp. I need to go get a baseline on mine with just the SW h-pipe cat back. Auto car.... meh... 360-370?

it also lets you see what the cars ar doing at different temps

 

[dubster99]

I guess you are right, you are prob a little more educated on the 5.0 and tuning then any of the top builders and tuners in this country.

I'm not trying to sell you anything. Dyno numbers speak for themselves.

 

[beefcake]

Yes. Because we get rich on a $60 thermostat

 

[pinero61]

I'm not trying to sell you anything. Dyno numbers speak for themselves.

Most engines make the most horsepower just before they come apart. This is not a power mod, it is a safety mod.

Power is heat. Controlling that heat is more important than output numbers.

 

[steviebee72]

one other thing to consider, all discussions about where motors make peak HP is great, and totally dependent on tune and what the computer wants to do. older PCMs used to richen up the mix when car was cooler, have no clue about this new strategy in the computer other than everyone has said it's way more complicated.

other thing, i like the cooler engine bay provided by lower coolant temps.
cooler engine bay means everything is cooler, all the plastic, connectors, hoses, sensors. alls these things should last longer being cooler.


2015 DIB 50 year GT PP

 

[D3adch1ld]

Anyone drill out the holes on the grill to allow more air to flow into the intake and engine bay. I would imagine the would also cool down the AIT and engine temps. Haven't done it yet but I was thinking about it. What do you guys think?

I did it, on the JLT it doesn't help much in stop n go situations, but a quick wot pull and you'll see the inlet temps drop like you put ice on the intake. Lol. Much faster than before. I also modified my CAI to have more of a seal again the hood.

 

[Chameleon]

I will be ordering my livernois 160 thermostat this week.

 

[beefcake]

heres a good article from reische on the diff between the 180 / 170 / 160

http://reischeperformance.com/tstatinfo.html

 

[Walt1120]

I had a 160 in my old mustang but I dont think im gonna do it on this one

Mainly because that a thermostat does not remove any heat from the coolant system. the radiator and fans are what remove heat, the thermostat just causes coolant to flow into the motor sooner than normal. The amount of heat energy that can be removed is still fully dependent on the radiator and fan capacity.

If you keep the stock 180 and upgrade the radiator, water pump, and fans, the coolant going into the motor is still around 180.. but with the upgraded stuff the exiting coolant is much more quickly cooled. This allows the rad to have a constant cool coolant supply and you probably wont run into the situation where the tstat is stuck open and the radiator cant cool the coolant faster than its being heated. With a lower tstat, your now giving the rad more work as it needs to cool the coolant back down under 160 or else it will stay open and if it stays open your coolant temp will have alot more variance. You need the tstat to be at balance with the radiator so that you dont have a tstat always stuck open when under load because the rad cant keep up. Constant coolant temp entering the motor will offer more consistency

Plus I just dont like flooding coolant ports with lower temp than they were meant for. 20 degrees may not make a significant difference but this is my daily not a race car and im sure that things like torque specs on cylinder head components was partly determined by operating temp as the metal will expand less with colder coolant being injected into them

On this car im going to try and keep the 180 and focus on removing heat instead of colder coolant.

On a side note I removed hood insulation, the the fender area insulation, and the hood seal weatherstripping and my cylinder head temps are consistently 196-207 (most of the time 198-199) vs the normal 199-215 (even with 100+ degree IAT). my intake tube is also just warm after driving and not blistering hot like it was before. My next mods will be boxing in the sides between the radiator and grille since the bottom and top already are.

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