aftermarket driveshaft issues?

[GrabberBlue5.0]

Damn, the design of it sounds suspect. Either the mass or the spring constant of the aluminum was not calculated correctly for this vehicle.

Yea I won't pretend to know everything about driveshafts but I think there was just too much run out and it was not properly balanced. It looked like they shaved the edges off the flange on the transmission side for... Something... I don't have any idea why they did

You can see the ride side of the flange looks uneve compared to the left side, especially if you look at the bolt holes


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[Jmeo]

The way that flange looks its no wonder you have vibrations. It can't be in balance if you ask me.


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[IvanCRF]

The top right mounting hole is horrid too.

 

[Schu]

Wow... that is ugly.

Who else makes top of the line aluminum driveshafts that are drop in?

 

[GrabberBlue5.0]

The way that flange looks its no wonder you have vibrations. It can't be in balance if you ask me.


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The top right mounting hole is horrid too.

Wow... that is ugly.

Who else makes top of the line aluminum driveshafts that are drop in?

Yea, they told me that was normal and wouldn't affect anything. I knew it was a lie but at that point I realized they weren't going to do anything for me


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[Alcyone]

Wow... that is ugly.

Who else makes top of the line aluminum driveshafts that are drop in?

Right now our choice other than DSS is Shaftmaster or Dynotech. I just installed a Dynotech; so far so good but I've only gotten about a hundred miles on it. Seems to be okay in town and on the highway up to 80 MPH.

If this unit starts having balancing or harmonic issues, there's a shop in Colorado that I'll sent it in and have them work on it.

 

[Schu]

^ thank you sir.

 

[Grimace427]

Right now our choice other than DSS is Shaftmaster or Dynotech. I just installed a Dynotech; so far so good but I've only gotten about a hundred miles on it. Seems to be okay in town and on the highway up to 80 MPH.

If this unit starts having balancing or harmonic issues, there's a shop in Colorado that I'll sent it in and have them work on it.

I have a Dynotech on my 2011 and it too is excellent. Had to clock it when I first installed it due to vibration, after that it's pretty smooth up over 120mph at the dragstrip.

 

[Jmeo]

I have a Dynotech on my 2011 and it too is excellent. Had to clock it when I first installed it due to vibration, after that it's pretty smooth up over 120mph at the dragstrip.

Clock it?


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[Grimace427]

Clock it?

Unbolt the DS from the diff, rotate the DS in relation to the diff flange, bolt it back up. Do this one bolt hole at a time, first 90 degrees, then 180, until vibrations are eliminated. Sometimes isn't necessary at all.

 

[Schu]

rotate on axis.. clocking.

 

[Jmeo]

Unbolt the DS from the diff, rotate the DS in relation to the diff flange, bolt it back up. Do this one bolt hole at a time, first 90 degrees, then 180, until vibrations are eliminated. Sometimes isn't necessary at all.

rotate on axis.. clocking.

Ok, I have never heard of this. I will keep this in mind as I get to drive my car more I will pay close attention. I think there is something vibrating a smidge right now but I think it's the mid muffler of my Borla Touring Kit too close to the underbody. I can tell the exhaust isn't where I had it just by looking at the exhaust tips (Tasca just installed clutch and long tubes for me).



When I installed the kit for the first time a couple weeks ago I had to take some extra time to keep the mid muff away and not hit. I plan on putting it on my lift tomorrow night and re align the exhaust. This will take that being the cause right out of the equation.

If I still notice any vibrations I'll give this a try. So I just turn it one hole at a time till any vibration goes away?

Thanks,

Jaime


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[Schu]

I would do it 90° at a time and work my way around

 

[Jmeo]

I would do it 90° at a time and work my way around

Thank you


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[MtnBiker]

I'm a little unclear how a u-joint / cv joint actually work in concert. You generally want two u-joints working at the same angle (engine and diff at same angle relative to level ... not necessarily at same elevation). When that criteria is met the input and output are rotating at a constant speed but the shaft is not. The u-joints cancel the eccentricity out if installed correctly. Probably clear as mud - the point is two u-joints or two cv joints make sense to me. But one of each is confusing. I gotta think that is vibration and harmonics waiting to happen.

Here is a video that demonstrates the concept: [ame]

This is also why folks are replacing the stock diff bushings when upgrading to a 1-piece shaft. The pinion rise on the diff side with the stock bushings is pretty dramatic on WOT acceleration.

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