How much can the blocks handle?

[robmustang201528]

How much can the stock block, transmission and clutch handle? Is everything in the engines forged?

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[UPRSteve]

Forged Crank. Coated Rods, Hypertec Pistons.

I have seen just north of 800hp on these motors. Isn't the safest IMO. 600-650 is all you need which IS STILL MORE then most people will ever use.

 

[Tele5.0]

How much can the stock block, transmission and clutch handle? Is everything in the engines forged?

I am not 100% sure on all of this but Ill give it a stab...I'm sure others will chime in with more detail.

Stock motor can handle quite a bit from what I have gathered. 600whp seems to be pretty safe (with good tune). More can be made but from everything I have seen/read, 600-650whp is pretty safe again, with a good tune.

Transmission and clutch are a different story. On DR's/stickys/slicksI believe the trans will handle up to about 700hp but then the input shaft will probably go on hard launches. Clutch will not hold long at any of these hp ratings for long with DR's/stickys/slicks.

All of this being said...factory half shafts will break on DR's/stickys/slicks before anything else. Even with a stock motor guys are breaking them with hard launches. <weakest link are the half shafts for sure.

internals: Rods are forged, pistons are not....not 100% sure about the crank but I don't believe it is forged.

Hope this helps, Beef/Lethal/Livernois or some of the other guys can chime in more.

 

[Tele5.0]

I stand corrected....I thought the rods were forged.....

 

[UPRSteve]

I stand corrected....I thought the rods were forged.....

It's a forged powder. Not a true forged Rod.

 

[robmustang201528]

thanks guys. 600hp at the wheels is like 700hp at the crank?

 

[BMR Tech]

I would not hesitate to run 700-750rwhp with these engines, personally.

The weak link at that level will be the pistons. If the tune is good, and you keep the heat out...then it will live for a while.

 

[Process]

Ill be keeping mine around 750'ish, so we will see how long it lasts.

 

[arieso94z28]

Hellion got 900+rwhp with their twin turbo kits.....with a good tune. That is the key....the tune.

 

[95cobby]

All depends on tune and if you keep it on the street or take it to the track. In the Transmission & Drivetrain section there is a post about the clutch giving out at ~600hp at the track.

Hellion got 900+rwhp with their twin turbo kits.....with a good tune. That is the key....the tune.

That was a glory run and prob would not last on the street/track.

 

[Guard5.0]

I'm approx. 630 at the crank right now. I'll be doing another tune shortly and would like to refine the crank HP at 700'ish. That being said, some folks are already well beyond this and it will undoubtedly go higher. The engine is fantastic, the rest of the drivetrain in my humble opinion is the downfall and why the Mustang can still be had for relatively cheap money in the performance automotive world. My next round of mods are driveshaft, half shafts, clutch, shifter, and transmission fluid change in an effort to keep up with the HP levels. In essence, I'm more concerned with the rest of the drivetrain than I am the engine.

 

[DivineStrike]

These motors seem to be pretty stout. Everywhere I've seen says 600-650 is a safe range, with maybe these 15 motors being able to squeeze out a little more.

IMO, besides the tune, it all depends on how you drive your car. Personally I feel I wouldn't get much longevity out of my motor if I went FI this early in the game due to my driving style. I find it pretty hard to stay out of the throttle daily. My goal is to mod NA for now then maybe add a supercharger down the road to reach a goal of 800whp. If I go the supercharger route I will probably only do it I have enough funds on the side to replace the block if I pop it. There's a good possibility I'll upgrade the block at the same time if I decide to go FI though anyhow.

I thought about going turbo, but with my intentions on going NA first I don't want to waste money on headers just to remove them later for a turbo. My supercharger of choice will probably be a centri.

 

[Grim_Reaper]

These motors seem to be pretty stout. Everywhere I've seen says 600-650 is a safe range, with maybe these 15 motors being able to squeeze out a little more.

IMO, besides the tune, it all depends on how you drive your car. Personally I feel I wouldn't get much longevity out of my motor if I went FI this early in the game due to my driving style. I find it pretty hard to stay out of the throttle daily. My goal is to mod NA for now then maybe add a supercharger down the road to reach a goal of 800whp. If I go the supercharger route I will probably only do it I have enough funds on the side to replace the block if I pop it. There's a good possibility I'll upgrade the block at the same time if I decide to go FI though anyhow.

I thought about going turbo, but with my intentions on going NA first I don't want to waste money on headers just to remove them later for a turbo. My supercharger of choice will probably be a centri.

+1 to the "only do it if I have enough funds on the side to replace the block if I pop it"

That is my thinking as well. I plan on going ProCHarged and having enough on the side to buy a new stock block, but the real plan is to build a bullet proof block off to the side to limit the down time.

 

[beefcake]

we normally tuned the 11-14's around 580 to 620 on a safe 93 tune, I think these will take a little more, but the it's still not a bullet proof engine, for the average customer, I think a 3.6 pulley combo say our paxtons once they hit will be relatively safe and should land in the 610-640 rwhp range on average with a conservative tune

 

[Livernois Motorsports]

I am not 100% sure on all of this but Ill give it a stab...I'm sure others will chime in with more detail.

Stock motor can handle quite a bit from what I have gathered. 600whp seems to be pretty safe (with good tune). More can be made but from everything I have seen/read, 600-650whp is pretty safe again, with a good tune.

Transmission and clutch are a different story. On DR's/stickys/slicksI believe the trans will handle up to about 700hp but then the input shaft will probably go on hard launches. Clutch will not hold long at any of these hp ratings for long with DR's/stickys/slicks.

All of this being said...factory half shafts will break on DR's/stickys/slicks before anything else. Even with a stock motor guys are breaking them with hard launches. <weakest link are the half shafts for sure.

internals: Rods are forged, pistons are not....not 100% sure about the crank but I don't believe it is forged.

Hope this helps, Beef/Lethal/Livernois or some of the other guys can chime in more.

We like to keep the Mustangs hovering around the 600-620 mark for reliability. The piston and rod are the weak point of the platform. We actually make a rotating assembly that features our exclusive upgraded rod and piston for the guys who want to flirt with the 700 range. After that we suggest going with our Street Series shortblock. And for the guys and gals that are interested in pushing their cars to the 1000 mark, we offer our Pro Series engines.

The Pro Series features:

Clevite Tri-Armor Coated Bearings reduce friction and increase durability
Livernois Forged Steel Crankshaft good to 1200+ HP and modified on Livernois in-house CNC for enhanced oiling under extreme loads and RPM

Machining and Prep
CNC Probe Block (Readout available both before and after machine work)
CNC Machine Block
CNC Deck Block
Hone w/Deck plates
Align Hone Mains
Radius Block Oil Passages
Clean Casting Flash
Chamfer Holes
Radius Sharp Edges
Crankshaft Oil Feed Holes Chamfered and Prepped
Crankshaft Polished
Deburr Pistons and Remove Sharp Edges
Hand File Rings
Engine Assembled in Clean Room

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