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key on power source?

BULL1TT

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I am looking for a key on power source. I have seen the thread about the one in the rear view mirror, but that is a little too far away from what I want to use it for. Is there possibly one in the passenger fuse box or some other source on the lower part of the car?
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dgc333

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When I hard wired in my radar detector I used the red wire to the blower motor under the dash on the passenger side.
 
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BULL1TT

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When I hard wired in my radar detector I used the red wire to the blower motor under the dash on the passenger side.
Are you talking about the big red wire that is beneath the glovebox? wouldn't this only be on if the fan was running?
 

dgc333

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That's the wire, mine is powered when the ignition is on whether the HVAC on or off. It powers off as soon as you turn off the ignition, it is not on a timer like infotainment system.

I took a butt splice connector and crimped it to the detector positive wire and used a piece of 18 gauge single conductor ground from some romex I had kicking around and inserted it into the back of the connector. I used a tie wrap to secure it so it won't fall out. Quick, simple and didn't require disturbing any of the factory wiring.
 
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BULL1TT

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I just went out and checked that red fan wire. When the hvac is off it had nothing on it. Turn on the hvac and I got 10 volts. Turn the fan wide open and it goes up a few tenths. Turn the hvac off and its back to zero volts.:frusty:
 

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dgc333

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Not how mine works. My detector is staying powered regardless of whether the HVAC is on or off.
 

Mr.Solis

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ecu. I used that as a keyed on power source for my airlift suspension.
 
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BULL1TT

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tsunami

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I don't like to splice into OEM wiring. Instead, I use a fuse tap. You pull out the fuse in the circuit you want to use, insert the fuse tap which has a power wire sticking out, insert the fuse into the tap. Both the circuit and the new power feed are now fused. Run a wire from the tap wire to the electronics. A micro-fuse tap usually costs around $5. I don't have to worry about the original wire gauge size or worry that I made a tight enough splice.
 

quiong

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I don't like to splice into OEM wiring. Instead, I use a fuse tap. You pull out the fuse in the circuit you want to use, insert the fuse tap which has a power wire sticking out, insert the fuse into the tap. Both the circuit and the new power feed are now fused. Run a wire from the tap wire to the electronics. A micro-fuse tap usually costs around $5. I don't have to worry about the original wire gauge size or worry that I made a tight enough splice.
I think the problem is several forum members have discovered in another thread (http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13459) that none of the fuses in the passenger compartment are keyed so the device stays on after ignition is turned off, draining your battery. I'd do a fuse tap too if a keyed fuse is found in our vehicle, otherwise I think I have to use the mirror for my dash cam.
 

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I think the problem is several forum members have discovered in another thread (http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13459) that none of the fuses in the passenger compartment are keyed so the device stays on after ignition is turned off, draining your battery. I'd do a fuse tap too if a keyed fuse is found in our vehicle, otherwise I think I have to use the mirror for my dash cam.
I found a keyed fuse circuit to tap in the passenger side fuse box to power my dash cam. I didn't make a note of exactly which fuse circuit it was. This weekend I'll pull the cover off and take a pic.
 

Scott in Houston

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I found a keyed fuse circuit to tap in the passenger side fuse box to power my dash cam. I didn't make a note of exactly which fuse circuit it was. This weekend I'll pull the cover off and take a pic.
I'm about to get a dash cam as well… can't wait to see this. Thanks!
 

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I just went out and checked that red fan wire. When the hvac is off it had nothing on it. Turn on the hvac and I got 10 volts. Turn the fan wide open and it goes up a few tenths. Turn the hvac off and its back to zero volts.:frusty:
I stand corrected! That source in my car powers off when the HVAC is shut off. The reason I didn't think it did is there is a delay after switching off before my detector powers down.

Since I never turn off the HVAC completely in any of my cars I am not going to worry about it for the time being.
 

sleepless

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I found a keyed fuse circuit to tap in the passenger side fuse box to power my dash cam. I didn't make a note of exactly which fuse circuit it was. This weekend I'll pull the cover off and take a pic.
Any update? I'd love to know which fuse you found.
 

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I found a keyed fuse circuit to tap in the passenger side fuse box to power my dash cam. I didn't make a note of exactly which fuse circuit it was. This weekend I'll pull the cover off and take a pic.
Any update? I'd love to know which fuse you found.

I tapped into fuse number 36, which is the second fuse circuit down from the top right as you look at the fuse box on the passenger side of the cabin. On my GT Premium this circuit has a 15 AMP fuse and it is switched, meaning on/off with the ignition. The owner’s manual labels the circuit “Auxiliary body module”. Not sure what it powers….

I used a “ADD-A-CIRCUIT ATR MICRO2 FUSE-TAP Add ON DUAL CIRCUIT ADAPTER” that I ordered from Amazon. It came with a 5 amp fuse for the additional circuit provided by the adapter.
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