Steeda Stop The Hop Starter Kit Your Thoughts?

[larr12]

my plan is 555-4438(dowels)......but possibly 555-4437(support bushings) and FORD PERFORMANCE M-5972-M,steeda says "no nvh",but some forum members report evident "nvh""...what the real story?

Still running Steeda with no NVH. I think the diff bushings are the only parts that can give some minor NVH.

If I were you I would do first the dowels, support bushings and the vertical links. Then move to the other upgrades.

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[tj@steeda]

When properly installed, these parts do not introduce NVH. NVH is inherently subjective and difficult for customers to quantify. The components simply fill existing voids and tighten tolerances; they do not add new sources of noise or vibration.

If these were truly an issue, you would see more feedback than just a handful of customers.

Install & purchase with confidence.

 

[Zrussian13]

Hi Tim,

I have spent a lot of money on my suspension. A good deal of those parts are Steeda. My first problem is the clunking when shifting my manual into reverse and then into 1st gear, and then sometimes shifting 1st into 2nd gear. It mostly occurs at very slow speeds. That's why I am thinking it is the BMR CB005 Cradle Kit. If I remove that kit and install your Stop the Hop starter kit, will it eliminate the noise and provide the same functions as the BMR cradle Kit?

My second problem is the clunking noise coming from the front wheels. It happens on rough bumpy roads, and especial if it's only one wheel hitting a bump or pot hole. I have your min drop springs, bump stops, and bump steer parts installed. I am using the Ford Track Pack struts. I am thinking it might be the springs. Your thoughts.

Thanks....................

Did you solve the cluncking at low speeds? I have the same issue and it started after installing the minimum drop springs. No other changes were made amd it didn't do it before.

 

[Steeda-Sergio]

-,i've also seen that the dowels might have to be sanded to a reduced circumference to get one or more-

I've provided this tip a few times for special cases. Here's the reasoning behind it.

When the subframe is being installed in the factory and the large washer/ nut combo is torqued down, sometimes they hit it with too much torque and that deforms the sub-frame (immediate area around the bolt, since its hollow). Since our parts are made within a +/-.003 tolerance, any deforming will cause the parts to bind.

One of two ways to address that happening to you is chucking the dowel and skimming the outside a bit to get past the deformation. Other is to just smack it into place, but then if you ever want to remove it, you'll have to drop the sub-frame and hammer it back out.

 

[geezer stang]

I've provided this tip a few times for special cases. Here's the reasoning behind it.

When the subframe is being installed in the factory and the large washer/ nut combo is torqued down, sometimes they hit it with too much torque and that deforms the sub-frame (immediate area around the bolt, since its hollow). Since our parts are made within a +/-.003 tolerance, any deforming will cause the parts to bind.

One of two ways to address that happening to you is chucking the dowel and skimming the outside a bit to get past the deformation. Other is to just smack it into place, but then if you ever want to remove it, you'll have to drop the sub-frame and hammer it back out.

i suspect that during the install of my springs,the subframe "may" have shifted a bit,because my alignment is off(-1.75/1,33,total toe is 0,31 and thrust angle is 0.3) which is wearing my driver's side rear tire on the inside,i'll assume that the factory rear camber arms have enough adjustment to get to a more usable number,my delima could just be the product of "lazy alignment techs"because i chose the "minimum drop springs to hopefully mitigate this very problem,thanks for your input!

 

[Steeda-Sergio]

i suspect that during the install of my springs,the subframe "may" have shifted a bit,because my alignment is off(-1.75/1,33,total toe is 0,31 and thrust angle is 0.3) which is wearing my driver's side rear tire on the inside,i'll assume that the factory rear camber arms have enough adjustment to get to a more usable number,my delima could just be the product of "lazy alignment techs"because i chose the "minimum drop springs to hopefully mitigate this very problem,thanks for your input!

All Mustangs have adjustment in the rear(it's a slotted hole) and as long as its not one of the bigger drops (over 1.25) you should be good to go. I agree that it's more about finding a shop that will hit your specific number. Below are the specs we set Steet cars here In our Shop in Valdosta, Ga.

Street
Front camber -1.03 degrees on both sides (Performance and Handling Pack, modified)
Caster +7.0 degrees on both sides
Front toe +0.01 degrees per side total toe of +0.02 degrees, this is toe in
Rear camber -1.5 degrees on both sides
Rear toe +0.115 degrees per side, total toe of +0.23 degrees, this is toe in

 

[larr12]

@Steeda-Sergio can I use those specs for a daily driver?

 

[Steeda-Sergio]

@Steeda-Sergio can I use those specs for a daily driver?

YUP!
Street is what we consider daily driver. Granted you'll want to be at least lowered.
I have a different front camber number for non-pp factory ride height.

I also have a specs for Starting Points for Track and Drag.

 

[larr12]

YUP!
Street is what we consider daily driver. Granted you'll want to be at least lowered.
I have a different front camber number for non-pp factory ride height.

I also have a specs for Starting Points for Track and Drag.

Yes. I'm running Steeda Pro-Active shocks with minimum springs.

 

[Steeda-Sergio]

Yes. I'm running Steeda Pro-Active shocks with minimum springs.

Nice, then yes, the specs apply to your Mustang. Find a shop that will go to those specs +/- .1 DEG.

Most Big Box Brand won't, hence the emphasis.

 

[GL95]

If you use a quickjack the subframe braces are incredibly annoying to install and remove everytime you need to access the front subframe bolts

 

[NewTekBuzz]

Greetings,

I have a 2022 Mustang GT Premium with a manual transmission. I have recently installed the Ford Track Pack Kit with Steeda min drop springs. I also have installed on my Mustang the BMR Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit & Differential Bushing Kit. Unfortunately my Mustang makes all kinds of clunking noises when shifting or driving slowly over rough roads and bumps. I was thinking of removing the BMR stuff and installing the Steeda Stop the Hop Starter Kit.

For those of you who have installed the Steeda Stop The Hop Starter Kit, how do you like it? Has it helped with wheel hop, and has it created any additional noises or vibrations? I am pretty sure my clunking noises are a BMR issue.

Thanks..............

What tires are you running? On my 2015, I bought all the stop the hop parts. Wish I would have started with tires first then eased into suspension upgrades.

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