Installing Steeda Stop the Hop Starter Kit

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes & Chassis' started by Buenhombre, May 14, 2020.

  1. Buenhombre

    Buenhombre Active Member

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    Hey Guys, I’m installing the Steeda IRS brace, bushings and alignment kit kit this weekend. Would you all recommend I put the rear up on ramps or jack stands for the install? I’m a bit new to DIY so wanted to get feedback. From YouTube videos most are on a lift. Thanks!
     
  2. WildHorse

    WildHorse N/A or GO HOME

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    I just finished doing this (first time I did it) on the garage floor. To install the bushings & alignment pins you need to support the chassis, they IRS must be allowed to hang & supported by the floor jack. You can do the braces at the same time.
     
  3. jacknifetoaswan

    jacknifetoaswan Well-Known Member

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    Definitely jack stands. It'll give you some more clearance to remove the wheels, as well.

    JR
     
  4. OP
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    Buenhombre

    Buenhombre Active Member

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    Gotcha! That makes sense? How much of a PITA was the install and about how long did it take you? Thanks.
     
  5. WildHorse

    WildHorse N/A or GO HOME

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  6. OP
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    Buenhombre

    Buenhombre Active Member

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    Thanks Wildhoese and JR for your responses. Nice write up!
     
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  7. jacknifetoaswan

    jacknifetoaswan Well-Known Member

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    In addition to the write-up above, Steeda has really good install videos on YouTube. The rear lower bushings are very difficult to install, but they're the hardest thing to install. They took me the longest to install, and were just a giant pain. Outside of that, you just need to pay attention to what you're doing, and work around the subframe braces to torque down the large subframe bolts. When you try to install the locating pins and reinstall the subframe bolts, you'll likely need to shift your subframe. It sounds more difficult than it is, just loosen the subframe bolts that are snugged at that point, stick a big screwdriver through the holes (believe they're noted on the install instructions), and apply pressure. The subframe moves fairly easily.

    JR
     
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  8. WildHorse

    WildHorse N/A or GO HOME

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    On mine I got lucky. Everything lined up no problem. Musta been a not built on Monday or Friday car haha.
     
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  9. jacknifetoaswan

    jacknifetoaswan Well-Known Member

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    Mine wasn't super out of whack, but enough that I couldn't get everything located properly. Given how much the rear subframe and suspension weighs, I was really surprised at how easy it was to move!

    JR
     
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    Buenhombre

    Buenhombre Active Member

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    I’m installing tomorrow. I’ll report back!
     
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  11. bnightstar

    bnightstar Well-Known Member

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    Please do as I wonder if I should order this next to my front swaybar and camber plates or don't
     
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  12. BluePonyGT

    BluePonyGT Well-Known Member

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    First, have your car up on jack stands with plenty of room underneath. If you have a set of full length jacking rails installed in the car already this will be easier. I don't have a lift either so this is what I did.

    Second, have a good 2ndary support system for your subframe and differential assembly. I use a heavy duty transmission jack with a treated 4x4 cut to length to fit in between the subframe bracket holes where the IRS brackets bolt (with the slide-in threaded nuts) - see below for the link. The reason this is important is you'll have to move the subframe a tiny bit to get the subframe-to-body holes aligned when you put those alignment pins in and having something sturdy with wheels will help.

    Third, for the IRS spacers and alignment pins loosen all 4 subframe bolts a bit while your 2ndary support system is in place holding everything up, but only remove 2 bolts of the side you're working on and lower the jack enough to get things in. Put in the spacers and alignment pins. Then put the bolts back in (make sure they're aligned and straight) and lift the subframe back up. Keep those subframe bolts hand tight, then do the other side the same way. This will require you to move the subframe around and lift the jack up and down! That's why having a good way to hold things up helps a lot. I have this:

    https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-low-profile-transmission-jack-60240.html

    Finally, here's a trick: have some caliper grease handy to put on the alignment pins to keep them in the subframe long enough to get your spacers in, brackets back on and the bolts in. Having them fall out every 5 seconds will drive you nuts. I have some of this handy for just such an occasion:

    https://usaautomotivesupply.com/product/sta-lube-brake-caliper-grease-12oz/

    Honestly anything thick and rubber/poly friendly will work just fine.

    Then you do the IRS brackets last once your subframe is back in along with the subframe brackets in the front, and everything is torqued properly. Make sure all of the hardware is in loose with blue locktite before you tighten everything down.
     
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    Buenhombre

    Buenhombre Active Member

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    Thanks for the notes, guys. I was able to get the spacers in bit am having issues with the alignment spacers - literally every single bolt is out of alignment by probably 1cm. Thoughts? I don’t have a tranny lift so just am working with a jack. Should I unbolt all 4 super lose then try to orientate. BluePny thanks for the detailed notes but it’s just not clicking for me, plus I don’t have the tranny jack.
     
  14. BluePonyGT

    BluePonyGT Well-Known Member

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    I would NOT take all 4 out. I'd take out 2 (rear) and leave 2 in but loose (front) - align the 2 that are out with the alignment pins, then put those bolts started and in hand tight, then do the other 2. You'll find out the last 2 are probably spot on because of what you did with the first 2.
     
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  15. 15GTPP

    15GTPP Well-Known Member

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    Got mine installed last night. Install was pretty straight forward. Only ailignemnt issue I had was getting the passenger front bolt to go in but I loosened the other three and was able to move it pretty easily. The car feels a lot better, way more planted in the rear. You can even tell a difference just going over bumps. Great product! I wish I had this kit on my last 2 s550’s.
     
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