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2023 GT Premium - My Twin Turbo Build
- Thread starter AcceptableNebula
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80FoxCoupe
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@AcceptableNebula nice work on the aluminum repair and casting match! I run the 3.800 callies crank. Which one do you have?
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AcceptableNebula
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Stock stroke as my cams shift the powerband up to 8500. I didn’t want to increase the piston speed any further.
80FoxCoupe
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3.800 and 8500+ here!
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AcceptableNebula
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Been tinkering with a few things while also collecting parts for the engine build.
I picked up this gauge pod from FlowState Manufacturing. I am definitely happy with the quality of the 3D printing. The layering actually makes it factory type texturing. I was disappointed that there was no top layer around the gauge bores and there’s no way a gauge would cover the visible partial infill of the core. I messaged Zack at Flowstate and asked him for a DXF of that face shape to save me from 3D scanning it. He quickly turned that around which was good of them to help. I have not finished selecting the gauges yet so I figured I’d run the program on some scrap 2mm carbon fiber I had kicking around. Seems like this will be viable solution for the finish plate.
I originally was going to do a 5.2 engine so I started designing 5.2 badges. However, after some research it appears that staying 5.0 with sleeves I much better than the added displacement. Allegedly the center section of the sleeve can balloon which would show up in an increase in crankcase pressure. So the 2 went back to a zero. Instead of just milling them out of aluminum, I decided to making them out of 0.200” carbon fiber. I then had to fly cut them back factory thickness of 0.160”. Pretty happy with the results. Hopefully the sun will illuminate the edges showing the layers so that people don’t think I stuck a carbon fiber sticker on a some ABS plastic.
The 5.2 Predator cam followers arrived and I was pretty shocked that I can’t tell the difference between a stock Coyote follower and the Predator considering they are supposedly an upgrade. The wheels are both 0.669”, both weigh 41g, and the only really think I can see is that the Predator ones are 0.005” shorter. I will need to compare these later to see if center of the lifter bore is shorter. Supposedly there should be around 0.038” difference to get a the shorter ratio. I’m also thinking that perhaps they were packaged incorrectly by Ford. I will be able to get exact dimensions later today. They are supposedly hardened and have a better roller etc. You’d think it would show up somewhere.
I ordered new intake and exhaust valves also. Instead 7 of the exhaust valves were actually intake valves in exhaust valve bags, right from Ford, still sealed. So not sure what’s going on over there.
I picked up this gauge pod from FlowState Manufacturing. I am definitely happy with the quality of the 3D printing. The layering actually makes it factory type texturing. I was disappointed that there was no top layer around the gauge bores and there’s no way a gauge would cover the visible partial infill of the core. I messaged Zack at Flowstate and asked him for a DXF of that face shape to save me from 3D scanning it. He quickly turned that around which was good of them to help. I have not finished selecting the gauges yet so I figured I’d run the program on some scrap 2mm carbon fiber I had kicking around. Seems like this will be viable solution for the finish plate.
I originally was going to do a 5.2 engine so I started designing 5.2 badges. However, after some research it appears that staying 5.0 with sleeves I much better than the added displacement. Allegedly the center section of the sleeve can balloon which would show up in an increase in crankcase pressure. So the 2 went back to a zero. Instead of just milling them out of aluminum, I decided to making them out of 0.200” carbon fiber. I then had to fly cut them back factory thickness of 0.160”. Pretty happy with the results. Hopefully the sun will illuminate the edges showing the layers so that people don’t think I stuck a carbon fiber sticker on a some ABS plastic.
The 5.2 Predator cam followers arrived and I was pretty shocked that I can’t tell the difference between a stock Coyote follower and the Predator considering they are supposedly an upgrade. The wheels are both 0.669”, both weigh 41g, and the only really think I can see is that the Predator ones are 0.005” shorter. I will need to compare these later to see if center of the lifter bore is shorter. Supposedly there should be around 0.038” difference to get a the shorter ratio. I’m also thinking that perhaps they were packaged incorrectly by Ford. I will be able to get exact dimensions later today. They are supposedly hardened and have a better roller etc. You’d think it would show up somewhere.
I ordered new intake and exhaust valves also. Instead 7 of the exhaust valves were actually intake valves in exhaust valve bags, right from Ford, still sealed. So not sure what’s going on over there.
NGOT8R
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@AcceptableNebula do you by chance have any additional pics of your PCM mounted? I see it in the background in a couple of pics being carefully protected and wrapped in a towel, but I was wondering were it is mounted in relation to your fuse box?
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AcceptableNebula
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This is the only spot I could think of. It is literally resting in it, but I used sliced rubber hose in 3 spots that lock it in place. Someday I’ll buy another engine harness and re route it from the back of the engine and put the PCM in the little cubby in the lower wheel well close to the door. I don’t like that the main harness passes by my wastegate on the passenger side. By the scuffs on my harness connector, it appear my air filter on that turbo is a 4th item holding it in place 
NGOT8R
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Thanks! It is definitely a thinking man’s game trying to figure out where to mount stuff in the S550 engine bay and surrounding areas due to the fact that it’s shoehorned in there. Not a whole lot of options.
I actually looked at the same spot that you’re considering for your future setup and decided to try and make all of this work without having to cut up harnesses just yet. I think I’ll have to extend some pigtails for a few sensors anyways though.
I actually looked at the same spot that you’re considering for your future setup and decided to try and make all of this work without having to cut up harnesses just yet. I think I’ll have to extend some pigtails for a few sensors anyways though.
Mach VII
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AcceptableNebula
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Well since @NGOT8R reminded me that my PCM location isn’t really something I’m happy with, I decided to start moving it to the inner fender area. However as I uncased the spaghetti, I thought my battery really belongs in the trunk at this point and without the battery box there is quite the convenient spot for the PCM there. I tagged every connector as I disconnected it. Gonna have to shorten the engine and transmission harnesses but will have to extend or possibly reroute the body harness at the front bumper. Overall it will clean up the engine bay a lot when I’m finished. Better yet there will be no harnesses near my hot side.
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AcceptableNebula
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After removing all of the wrap from the body, engine, and transmission harness, I had to get a bit more creative with the PCM mounting. I’m going to relocate the fusebox from behind the bumper to the battery compartment as well. I hate it being sideways and I’ve see instances where water got into it and left a car stranded. The second reason is I would have to extend the body harness connector about 5 feet with a total of 44 wires. So the transmission and engine harness needs to be shortened, and the body harness lengthened. At this point I’m better off routing everything how I want it.
Machined some billet mounts to hold the PCM at a 6 degree angle. The theory is air going into the cabin will be pulled by the PCM. Also slanting it will allow any water that could get in there to run off it towards the factory drain. The front mount wasn’t bad but the rear one was difficult to get a correct measurement, so I got a close measurement and made the back mount adjustable by turning the base. Then I powder coated them in a durable satin black. All 3 posts are attacked to the body with titanium bolts that thread into the mounts.
Machined some billet mounts to hold the PCM at a 6 degree angle. The theory is air going into the cabin will be pulled by the PCM. Also slanting it will allow any water that could get in there to run off it towards the factory drain. The front mount wasn’t bad but the rear one was difficult to get a correct measurement, so I got a close measurement and made the back mount adjustable by turning the base. Then I powder coated them in a durable satin black. All 3 posts are attacked to the body with titanium bolts that thread into the mounts.
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AcceptableNebula
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- #194
Well the body harness is freed for the moment. I’m fairly certain that I actually created a nice little desk ornament. For such a thing is not meant to last as it will be de-pinned and reused.
I was able to reroute about 60 wires so far. The good news is most wires need to be shortened between 1-3 feet. There are some wires that won’t make it back into the harness, like the MagRide wires which the car wasn’t equipped with, and the air shutter motor harness. MAF wiring needs to be rerouted. The only thing I’m not happy about is how they did the ground paths. They are so concentrated that my only option is to extend wires to those locations or make sure things are grounded well and hope for no gremlins.
Since I got the 10r80 I’ve been on the hunt for the ever elusive 10r90 transmission. Rumor had it that it was put in the Raptor truck but I’ve never found evidence of that. My Z06 had the 8L90 and the ZL1s come with a 10L90, which turns out to be a GM only redesign of the 10L80. The 90s always handle more power and are only assigned to higher hp cars. I’ve wanted to examine a 10R90 but never found one. As luck would have it, my buddy was rebuilding a 10L90 for his friend and he dug into each part. Turns out the CDF Drum is the same but different. The 10L90 has more clutch plates than the 10L80/10R80. Except of course the F clutches which are usually the first clutches to be starved of fluid and damages steels quickly. Besides a different style B clutch design and the CDF drum it’s essentially the same. My new 10L90 CDF drum arrived today. I also need to get my hands on a set of Alto D and F clutches which are not as aggressive as the GPZ clutches, but have broadened the fluid paths for flow while engaged.
You can see the groove height difference with the marked line. The stick has 10r80 height. Visually it’s hard to see the difference until you measure it. Extra clutch in C and D. Pairing with the Suncoast piston, and machining a new groove location, getting 5C, 5D, and 6F is doable.
Adding more clutches increases the surface area but still getting the tune correct is equally important. My torque management will be reduced to spark cut only on shifts.
I was able to reroute about 60 wires so far. The good news is most wires need to be shortened between 1-3 feet. There are some wires that won’t make it back into the harness, like the MagRide wires which the car wasn’t equipped with, and the air shutter motor harness. MAF wiring needs to be rerouted. The only thing I’m not happy about is how they did the ground paths. They are so concentrated that my only option is to extend wires to those locations or make sure things are grounded well and hope for no gremlins.
Since I got the 10r80 I’ve been on the hunt for the ever elusive 10r90 transmission. Rumor had it that it was put in the Raptor truck but I’ve never found evidence of that. My Z06 had the 8L90 and the ZL1s come with a 10L90, which turns out to be a GM only redesign of the 10L80. The 90s always handle more power and are only assigned to higher hp cars. I’ve wanted to examine a 10R90 but never found one. As luck would have it, my buddy was rebuilding a 10L90 for his friend and he dug into each part. Turns out the CDF Drum is the same but different. The 10L90 has more clutch plates than the 10L80/10R80. Except of course the F clutches which are usually the first clutches to be starved of fluid and damages steels quickly. Besides a different style B clutch design and the CDF drum it’s essentially the same. My new 10L90 CDF drum arrived today. I also need to get my hands on a set of Alto D and F clutches which are not as aggressive as the GPZ clutches, but have broadened the fluid paths for flow while engaged.
You can see the groove height difference with the marked line. The stick has 10r80 height. Visually it’s hard to see the difference until you measure it. Extra clutch in C and D. Pairing with the Suncoast piston, and machining a new groove location, getting 5C, 5D, and 6F is doable.
Adding more clutches increases the surface area but still getting the tune correct is equally important. My torque management will be reduced to spark cut only on shifts.
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NGOT8R
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Nice work! Labeling each wire will be a huge help in getting plugged back up to the right ports in the connectors.
FYI, if you need to extend your MAF harness, BL Fabrications sells one for their turbo kit. I just bought one from them, as well as their o2 extension harness @ $45 each. Let me know if you need more info. on them such as length and I’ll measure them for you.
FYI, if you need to extend your MAF harness, BL Fabrications sells one for their turbo kit. I just bought one from them, as well as their o2 extension harness @ $45 each. Let me know if you need more info. on them such as length and I’ll measure them for you.
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