2016 Mustang 3.7L GTX3076 Twin Turbo Build

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USMCtoARMY

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Man the past two days have been a whirlwind...Finished the front end: swaybar, rotors, brake pads, painted calipers, etc. Also, did the spoiler.

Buttoned her up and was ready to test drive. On the test drive...que audio *clunk, rattle, screech*. Back on the ramp I went.

Pretty much knew what the sources of the sounds were based on the experience I have with these parts and the car. First issue, completely forgot to check the dust shields since I upgraded rotors, but not the shields themselves. Checked them and pulled them off the rotors at the pinch point. Easy fix. Screech gone.

The clunk. I was certain it was the differential bushings given where I heard the source. Yep, sure as heck was one bolt slightly loose. Tightened up and done.

Now, the rattle was a different story. Tried replicating suspension movements with hand test, spud bar, etc. I was convinced at the time it was in the driver side shock mounting hardware. Specifically, the shock mount. After retorquing every bolt and finding no fix, I thought new shock mounts it is....but literally as I am walking out the shop to call it for the day the builder I am working with did one more trunk push with the car under load and I went down under the car because it seemed I heard it from a different point. Second push down on back and I spotted a loose nut on lower shock mounting point. Tightened it up and all was good!
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Tonight I did some interior work. Replaced the fake pleather shift boot, ebrake, and arm rest with real leather that had color matching silver thread. I am not an auto upholster and this job was no fun. That dang shift bezel is a pain to disassemble. It's not meant to come apart, but I followed a CJPP video and got it taken care of after some moments thinking it was going to break. Turned out nice, but I still have to figure a way to the arm rest to completely reseat.

Things are moving along, but will slow up now that I am shipping the car to Washington State early next week.

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Last update till the car ships across the country. I installed an Ikon GT350 look alike chin spoiler. I wanted a bit more flair than the standard PP one, I like this style a bit more, but I highly suggest you stay away from this product. It was cheap for a reason. I knew the holes weren't pre-drilled, which isn't a huge deal for me, but it's still an absolute pain in the ass regardless. My biggest issue is the cheap plastic. Not real flexible (it would definitely shatter on light impact) and scratches super easy. I will rectify the scratching issue when I paint it. The look is killer IMO, pictures don't do it justice. After the car ships and it's safely in it's new I home I will do the grille delete w/badge, foglight splitters, and foglight brake duct inserts. The the front end will be complete.

Some notes from this job. I have the PP belly pan and K-Member brace all mounted up with this chin spoiler. I will also say it's a lot more involved than what I explained above than just holes drilled. There were no instructions and only four screws included. I didn't even bother with the included screws. I transferred the stock hardware over (clips, screws, etc) to ensure it was snug. The belly pan only connects to the front six bolts and the side six (left and right) do not connect to the belly pan, but it is all good and won't move. Some people who also installed this product have said they mounted the base chin spoiler underneath it to provide stock mounting points for the belly pan. That was just to much to deal with when it worked fine without it. To me wasn't worth the hassle for little benefit.

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Something I forgot to update with results was the Spec Stage 2+ clutch, steel flywheel, GT350 halfshafts, Full Tilt Boogie Racing shifter bracket, and Shaftmasters single piece lightweight aluminum drive shaft. The drive train is very, very, very direct and linear. Kinda like a race car now lol. This also translates to a lot more drive train noise. The good kind, not the bad kind! Shifts are straight, quick, and when rev matching you just hit the gates and it pulls straight through. The one downside of all this...have to get rid of the shifter rattle from the shifter bracket install. Also, need to quiet down the noise from the shifter housing just a tad. More on that project at a later date.

Last thing, I discovered a bad endlink (Steeda adjustable one at that), which failed and is causing some front end clunk over bumps. Temporarily fixed it, but it will be replaced.
 
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Good news from turbo builder. Says we are a week out from completion! Other good news my wheels finally are out for delivery. I think I will be the first ESR RF2 rotary forged Mustang on the site...that's kinda dope lol.
 
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I'm in Washington State....now, the long wait for the Stang to reach me lol. BUT, something did show up to my door today. My brand new wheels! ESR did an excellent job on the packing. Now, I wait patiently...lol, like I could!

SPECS: ESR RF2 19x10.5 ET30 Rotary Forged
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So pretty!
 
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So pretty!
They are very nice. Not quite as dark as the photos show, but I like them a lot. It was my wife's color choice after I couldn't get the hyper black I originally sought.
 
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The car arrived a few days ago. I took yesterday and today to knock out the grille delete to add the CDC mesh kit and get my new badge on that matches the rear. I also was added some fog light splitters (not sure about the look yet) and did the JLT fog light delete for a future brake cooling duct.

So I will say this...this is a process. The grille delete is tedious and requires you take your time. I used a
Dremel and after cutting out the grille bits I hand sanded the edges varying between 100, 300, and 600 grit. Took some time. Then applying the goop was a constant monitoring job to keep the adhesive from running. I did the cutting and glue with the GT grille attached.

I really dig the new look. I will post up some daytime photos of the Stang to give a better view. Next up is the wheel mounting! Stay tuned.
 

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Front end in daylight...

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Well...change of plans with the turbo build. No longer using TD06H 20G turbskis. Builder had issues procuring the models we wanted and now we are going with GTX2871Rs. Not too worried about the change. Need to see the turbos and specs beyond what I know to understand which generation of the GTXs we are going with...

Teaser pic of finished IC:

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Thought about doing CDC upper and lower with mesh on my car also but don’t know if it would offer a significant increase in airflow over the Roush upper and lower.
Good question.
 
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