What's In DFB's Cabinet?

[Free Spirit]

I could suggest many different products and tools here, but lets keep this simple. I'm also going to focus purely on safe bucket washing, no foam cannon or pressure washer for simplicity and cost. The Megs stuff you can get virtually anywhere, the rest is via The Rag Company, which also have an Amazon store.

SETUP - Get yourself 3 buckets, one dedicated for wheels, two for washing (1 with soapy water, one with water only). Ideally, fit each with grit guards. Look for buckets with at least 15-litres or 4-gallon capacity.

SOAP - For wash soap, I would go for something intermediate to offer better cleaning ability. There are countless options, but for bucket washing, get yourself a gallon of Meguiar's Hyper Wash. I've found this offers higher cleaning ability than others. If you do want to foam, this can do that as well.

Use a microfiber wash pad such as these -
The Cyclone Ultra Wash Pad | The Rag Company
The Cyclone Ultra 10X Microfiber Wash Pad | The Rag Company

DRYING - If you have a leaf blower or compressed air, I use this right after washing to blast as much water from the surface prior to towel drying. (You need some form of water beading for this to work, so if you don't have a wax/sealant/coating on the car, keep reading..........................)

Next, working panel to panel, apply two or three sprays of Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Detailer, then start wiping with a drying towel, you may need a second towel to remove any residue. This is called using a "drying aid". Using the drying aid does three things, provides lubrication for your towel, increases gloss and slickness, and makes the blow drying quicker for next time. Do this method each time.

Use these drying towels, I'd order two or three medium 15x24 size -
The Gauntlet Microfiber Drying Towel | The Rag Company

Trim Restoration - As others noted, try Solution Finish. This will last about a year depending on vehicle usage. You just need to make sure the trim is very clean before use, so wipe it down with IPA or Panel Prep first. If you get this stuff on the paint or glass, just wipe it off. Check out the below video for more -
What Should Solution Finish Be Used On? | The Rag Company FAQ
Fix Your FADED TRIM Properly & Permanently Using Solution Finish!

I hope that helps, feel free to reach out if you need.

Would there be any benefit to buying a good foam cannon, all I have rn is a broken shitty Ryobi one that doesn't spray since it's shattered. Or is just the bucket method better? I'm not opposite to foam and pressure washer if it's better than the automatic car wash I go to (touchless) then it's worthwhile to invest in some equipment

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[Evolvd]

Would there be any benefit to buying a good foam cannon, all I have rn is a broken shitty Ryobi one that doesn't spray since it's shattered. Or is just the bucket method better? I'm not opposite to foam and pressure washer if it's better than the automatic car wash I go to (touchless) then it's worthwhile to invest in some equipment

A foam cannon is not a “wash” unless your car is just dusty. You should always expect to do a contact wash if the car is driven. The foam cannon just aides in removal of surface level particulates to reduce the chances of marring the clear coat during the contact wash. Touchless car washes don’t actually clean the paint and remove built up contaminants, they just remove the layer of dirt and grime that has less of a bond to your paint.

 

[Free Spirit]

A foam cannon is not a “wash” unless your car is just dusty. You should always expect to do a contact wash if the car is driven. The foam cannon just aides in removal of surface level particulates to reduce the chances of marring the clear coat during the contact wash. Touchless car washes don’t actually clean the paint and remove built up contaminants, they just remove the layer of dirt and grime that has less of a bond to your paint.

I know, the touchless usually does a shit job but it removes 70-80% of dirt and is good enough. I use it a lot in winter as it claims to be undercarriage and I use it to wash off salt. Not that it matters given my other post regarding rust.

 

[DFB5.0]

You know how certain words resonate more than others? This is different for everyone, but sometimes a word will carry more weight or meaning than the simple arrangement of letters would suggest. Words can invoke positive emotions such as passion and happiness, excitement and laughter, and on the flip side, negative emotions such as hatred and anger.

Of course, marketing departments are acutely aware of this emotion and use it to their advantage when trying to sell us something. Ford Mustang for example, a word that implies wild freedom and power. Which leads me to a word Stihl have used for decades on certain machines…………………………..MAGNUM.

Ironically, the use of an emotive word is very un-German like. Just look at the Stihl model name structure, a series of numbers and letters that even those who sell them can’t always figure out. Actually, this is a very German thing to do, most evident with the cars they make. Apart from Volkswagen, everything is named using numbers and letters, even the emotive performance models. In theory, a BMW 320i on paper would appear to be more powerful than the M3, but it’s the opposite. Then look at the Italians and British, there is no mistaking the intent of a car called Aventador or Vanquish. So, for a German company to use a word like MAGNUM, that’s quite significant.

To me, the word MAGNUM is just super cool! It signifies POWER, brute strength, unquestionable toughness! Which then explains why Stihl use it. For decades now, Stihl have used the MAGNUM word to denote their most powerful models. From what I can tell, this is currently limited to the MS 661 and MS 881 chainsaws, and the BR 800 C-E and BR 800 X backpack blowers.

But DFB, Stihl don't fit the MAGNUM badge to the 500i? I’m not certain why Stihl doesn't use this name on the 500i, perhaps to give it an identity of its own? And for whatever reason, humans like to use a lower case i to denote something technically advanced. Now, I don’t normally condone putting a badge on something that didn’t originally leave the factory with. You know what I mean here, someone putting an M3 badge on a 318i, or putting a GT badge on a V6 Mustang. But……………….I just couldn’t help myself because, as far as I’m concerned, the 500i is more than qualified to carry the MAGNUM nameplate. So, here we are………………………..

STIHL OEM Magnum Sticker/Decal # 0000 967 1593 | Outbushman
Stihl Magnum Decal / Sticker | eBay Australia

Yes, I know, a pointless exercise, but it soothes my soul. I think they call it OE+ in the car world.

 

[DFB5.0]

Would there be any benefit to buying a good foam cannon, all I have rn is a broken shitty Ryobi one that doesn't spray since it's shattered. Or is just the bucket method better? I'm not opposite to foam and pressure washer if it's better than the automatic car wash I go to (touchless) then it's worthwhile to invest in some equipment

I wouldn't say the bucket method alone is better. I originally left out the foam cannon/pressure washer side for simplicity, as requested.

Using a foam cannon in tandem with the bucket methods will always be a safer/better outcome. Just know that you won't get a truly clean car without the bucket (contact) side of the equation. While there are some soaps that can deliver a near touch free wash, they can be harsh and unforgiving without due diligence.................again, simplicity in mind here.

The main reason why I use a foam cannon is to ensure plenty of lubrication is on the surface, rather than relying on the bucket soap solution alone. There are also occasions where I will use a stronger soap as a pre-wash soak to help soften/remove dirt before the contact wash. Oh, and its fun too.

This is the workflow for both methods (keep in mind this doesn't include the wheels and tyres, this is always first regardless of method) -

Dusty - Mild Dirt -
1. Rinse the vehicle
2. Foam entire vehicle
3. Contact wash using a microfiber pad, rinsing the pad in the bucket between panels
4. Rinse
5. Dry (air, then towel + drying aid)

Dirty -
1. Foam entire vehicle, allow to soak
2. Rinse the vehicle
3. Re-foam
4. Contact wash using a microfiber pad, rinsing the pad in the bucket between panels
5. Rinse
6. Dry (air, then towel + drying aid)

So, if you think that is a path you want to follow, don't mess about with the Amazon junk. The MTM PF22.2, Griot's Boss Foam Cannon and Active Foam Cannon are the ones to look at.

MTM Hydro - PF22.2 Foam Cannon Kit | The Rag Company
THE BOSS™ Foam Cannon - Griot's Garage
Active Premium Foam Cannon – Esoteric Car Care

You will then most likely need an adaptor to connect to your pressure washer. Let me know what pressure washer you are using and I'll point you in the right direction.

 

[DFB5.0]

Had some fun making noise this morning. No doubt my neighbours are annoyed with me at the moment, what with shooting several videos of two chainsaws back-to-back. Screw em, if I have to listen to their dogs barking at all hours of the day and night, they'll have to just put up with me revving a chainsaw every once in a while.

The 500i has the most addictive induction bark, and the most insane throttle response I've ever encountered on a small engine. I could listen to this noise all day long!



Old vs New....................................

What's evident here is how much harsher it sounds, and how much slower it responds to the throttle.



This morning, I was made an offer for the MS 271 that I was happy with. The buyer turned up, took one look at it and handed me the money. I even removed the top cover to show the lack of sawdust and oil around the carburettor and air filter, gave him a spare chain and the owner's manual too. Apparently, it will be his sons camping/firewood saw.

Note the condition of the bar, that's what happens when you lend a chainsaw. Never do this by the way, hell will freeze over before I loan out the 500i!!!

 

[DFB5.0]

In the past few weeks, I've been fueling my OCD tendencies with other interests......................and enjoying every single second of it. In addition to the actual subject matter, I'm trying to push myself to make more videos. Quite often, the process of getting the camera out makes to film a particular subject has me over thinking what I'm trying to do. When in reality, its just a matter of turning the camera on and going with it. But, I'm pushing through, mainly so I become more confident with the camera rolling nest to me, but also with editing.

But, I'm happy with how I'm progressing. I just need to cross the barrier of being seen and heard. As a shy person, that may never happen. With my lates videos, I'm very pleased with how they turned out. Although, I'm not sure the neighbours agree with that.

With that said, I thought it was about time for more detailing content. Today, it was the Mustang's turn.

To start, the wheels were pre-treaded with NV Purge while I filled the buckets. With the Purge rinsed off, I went back in with Brake Buster for the tyres and foamed Carpro Reset for the wheels. From here, I applied some Hydr02 to top up the coating, then Atom Mac on the rotors.

For the wash, once again the transcendent Reset, teamed with the Carpro DabDab.

Following the final rinse, I again grabbed Hydr02 and applied it to the upper and lower grills as these weren't ceramic coated. From there, Amplify was the drying aid, Opti-Coat Clean & Protect for the glass, OG TD on the tyres. Moving to the interior, I gave it a wipe down with Griots Interior Cleaner, then applied a fresh layer of ColourLock Leather Shield to the seats, steering wheel, gear selector, handbrake and door panels.

Freshly cleaned and ready to swap places with old blue..................

 

[skinnyb]

Did my quarterly "maintenance" wash of mine today. It didn't "look" dirty, but the iron remover was the truth serum. I did the wheels and tires as usual with ADS Wheel and tire combo. Once they were clean, I hit all the paint with ADS Iron, soaked for a few minutes then hit with KCx Active foam and allowed to dwell and drip. The iron remover tells the story After a thorough rinse, I foamed KCx GSF and proceeded to do a contact wash. The soap under the wash media was nice and smooth, no contaminants found at that point. Dried off with KCx Quick and Shine, hit the tires with PSS, wiped interior with ADS Pilot, and was good to go...

 

[MrMike]

Cars look great! I assume KCx AF is similar to CarPro Lift?

I recently picked up ADS Hero to use as kind of an all in one product. Mainly because of the love for some of their stuff in this thread. I've used it for QD, clay, and drying aid and it works great for all. At 64:1 dilution, a 16oz bottle will last me a long time.

Also did a post-track cleanup. Front bumper before and after says it all.

I pre-treat with Lift at 1:10 where needed only and then wash with Reset. In retrospect, should've done a Descale wash instead of Reset with how sunny it was. I was moving as fast as I could to get it cleaned and dry. I haven't needed anything more than Lift into Reset for even the toughest bugs or rubber from the track.

Until there's another radical change in auto detailing chemicals, I think I've found my exterior routine for a while with CarPro Essence and Reload 2.0 once a year, with maintenance washes after each track day. Mustang gets that treatment in the Spring and Bronco in the Fall.

Yes, I went back to touch up my lip after I saw it in this after photo lol.

 

[skinnyb]

Cars look great! I assume KCx AF is similar to CarPro Lift?

I recently picked up ADS Hero to use as kind of an all in one product. Mainly because of the love for some of their stuff in this thread. I've used it for QD, clay, and drying aid and it works great for all. At 64:1 dilution, a 16oz bottle will last me a long time.

Also did a post-track cleanup. Front bumper before and after says it all.

I pre-treat with Lift at 1:10 where needed only and then wash with Reset. In retrospect, should've done a Descale wash instead of Reset with how sunny it was. I was moving as fast as I could to get it cleaned and dry. I haven't needed anything more than Lift into Reset for even the toughest bugs or rubber from the track.

Until there's another radical change in auto detailing chemicals, I think I've found my exterior routine for a while with CarPro Essence and Reload 2.0 once a year, with maintenance washes after each track day. Mustang gets that treatment in the Spring and Bronco in the Fall.

Yes, I went back to touch up my lip after I saw it in this after photo lol.

Active foam is only about 9.5 PH I believe whereas Lift is more like 12. KCx has one called Super Foam that is 12 ish... Or I just use their MultiStar which is higher PH. I didn't really need the extra PH, 9.5 was perfect for me today.

I am a HUGE fan of ADS stuff. Their Decon is 12 ish PH as well, and works excellent, Shampoo+ is a great PH neutral soap I really love. BUT, Reset, Lift, and Descale are all top tier for sure. Reset is my all time favorite soap, bar none.. No question, Reset is KING..

 

[DFB5.0]

Some bike detailing today.

This bike has been in storage for a while, so it was extremely dusty and had a fair bit of oil and grease build up on the crank, gear cassette, derailleur and chain. So, I started by spraying those areas with Bilt Hamber Sufex HD mixed at 1:1, which is quite a strong rate. I then foamed with Touch-less.

Touch-less doing its thing, breaking down contamination, then pulling it from the surface and onto the ground.

After a rinse, I followed with Hydr02 and dried it off with the EGO. As a finishing touch, a little Bead Maker on a towel.

Then, I replaced the lubrication the wash removed, this time trying something new to me, WD-40 Gel Lube (Spray & Stay No Drip) -

Spray Gel Lubricant for Tools | WD-40 Spray Gel Lube | WD-40
Gel Lubricant - WD-40 Australia

Effectively, a touch free wash that delivered the result I was looking for.

 

[GT 550]

something new to me, Gel Lube (Spray & Stay No Drip) -

Ah...yeah...suuuure

Ummm...does it's invention stem from any other 'industries'

 

[DFB5.0]

Ah...yeah...suuuure

Ummm...does it's invention stem from any other 'industries'

I hope not!

I've actually been searching for something like that for a while. Of course, the product I wanted was only available in the USA and not economical to ship to Australia. Valco Cininnati Gel-Lube, which is a sprayable oil that converts to a gel.

Valco Cincinnati Gel-Lube Engine Assembly/General Purpose Spray Lubricant | Taryl Fixes All - Taryl Apparel - Shipping Worldwide!
GelLube™ – Valco Consumer Products

 

[GT 550]

Is this similar to Motul chain oil?

 

[DFB5.0]

Is this similar to Motul chain oil?

Very different. It's like sprayable Permatex Ultra Slick assembly lube. There aren't many videos on, this is all I could come up with.

From 34.15, 39.40 and 47.30 -

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