What's In DFB's Cabinet?

[kilobravo]

I love this mower!

I DO know how you feel, Deyon, I get attached to mowers as well. As a matter of fact, I just purchased a new one a couple weeks ago, a Kubota Z412 48 zero turn. The lots in our neighborhood are relatively large as in an acre or larger and pretty much require a mower of this size.

I had been using a Scag 48 Tiger Cub and it gave me twenty-one years of reliable service but this year, it started to need more and more replacement parts and I decided it was time. I really wanted another Scag but some years back, Kubota bought out the Scag dealer and they no longer sell the brand. Sold the Scag to a fella who has a landscaping outfit for very little money and he was happy as a clam.

As luck would have it, I had to have surgery ten days ago which went fine but the doc told me no strenuous activity for six weeks and when I asked about mowing, he said no dice. DAMMIT! To add insult to injury, the young guy who was out of work and had been helping me around here, got a new job. I was very happy for him but he wasn't going to be available to help me except on Sundays although he willingly offered to help that week.

He used to work for another landscaping outfit and has lots of zero turn experience. Even so, I was worried about having him drive the new mower and "molesting" it. <smile> Unfortunately, he wound up having to babysit a toddler but said he would be here afterward. I waited but as the day grew long, I decided to see just how bumpy riding the new mower would be.

I chose one of their showroom mowers and it has a suspension seat that is adjustable and as I rode it from it's location in one back building over to where the rest of the mowing gear was, I hardly felt any bumps. So, I said screw it and decided to try mowing a small section out front. That went well and I wound up doing the rest of the property and my helper showed up shortly thereafter and he knocked out the edging and trimming.

I don't think I did any internal damage to the surgery but I'm not gonna tell the doc. :=) Hopefully, my helper will be available on Sundays for the next four weeks so he can ride the Kubota but the wife was none too happy seeing me on the new mower. ;=)

Here it is and BION, I have a detailing question. <grin>

​

The new toy mows extremely well, even better than the previous Scag but, I did go quite slowly to minimize the bumps.

No surprise, I would like to take care of the unit properly and it gets blown off and rinsed after each mow. I have plenty of VRP, etc., for the black vinyl but I'm wondering what spray sealant you would recommend to use once a month or so on the paint? Obviously, I have more Reload than I'll ever be able to use so that's what I was gonna try but wanted to get your opinion first and TIA.

Sponsored

 

[DFB5.0]

I DO know how you feel, Deyon, I get attached to mowers as well. As a matter of fact, I just purchased a new one a couple weeks ago, a Kubota Z412 48 zero turn. The lots in our neighborhood are relatively large as in an acre or larger and pretty much require a mower of this size.

​

The new toy mows extremely well, even better than the previous Scag but, I did go quite slowly to minimize the bumps.

Nice looking machine, I see it has the Kawasaki V-Twin. I'm a Briggs man, but those Kawasaki engines are far superior to the Briggs and Kohler equivalents.

As for letting the young guy use your brand new mower, well, it couldn't get any worse than this....................................

That's a top of the line 3-cylinder diesel powered Ferris backed into the lake. The best bit? Someone with extensive zero-turn experience did that.................the boss! I never let him live it down.

The boss's hated the Ferris because it's just too heavy and limits when and where it can be used. I liked it because it has suspension, not just a suspended seat, but proper coil springs.

As luck would have it, I had to have surgery ten days ago which went fine but the doc told me no strenuous activity for six weeks and when I asked about mowing, he said no dice. DAMMIT! To add insult to injury, the young guy who was out of work and had been helping me around here, got a new job. I was very happy for him but he wasn't going to be available to help me except on Sundays although he willingly offered to help that week.

Sorry to hear that, I hope you are on the mend.

No surprise, I would like to take care of the unit properly and it gets blown off and rinsed after each mow. I have plenty of VRP, etc., for the black vinyl but I'm wondering what spray sealant you would recommend to use once a month or so on the paint? Obviously, I have more Reload than I'll ever be able to use so that's what I was gonna try but wanted to get your opinion first and TIA.

The quickest and easiest way to get a sealant on your new mower would be something like Carpro Hydr02 Lite, Gyeon Wet Coat or Armour Detail Supply Beadz. I'm not sure if you are familiar with these products, a lot of people use them to easily apply protection to wheels without having to remove them from the car. In a situation like a mower, it means you can get the product onto every surface without the tedium a traditional spray sealant would involve.

All you do is wash the mower, then mist the product onto the STILL wet surface and immediately rinse with a hose or pressure washer. You will notice how the water will immediately start to bead. These products don't last very long, but then they are so easy to apply so reapplication isn't a chore.

A little goes a long way, so don't overdo it. Also don't let it dry on the surface, and don't use on dry surfaces, it MUST be wet. These products can be used on paint, plastic and rubber.

This is the Gyeon version, but they are all very similar. I tend to use the Carpro, just make sure you get the prediluted Hydr02 Lite, the concentrate I've found hit and miss, and the Hydr02 Foam is terrible. (Links for reference)

CARPRO HydrO2 Lite – Car Supplies Warehouse
Gyeon Q2M WetCoat – Car Supplies Warehouse
ARMOUR DETAIL Beads Touchless Sealant – Car Supplies Warehouse

 

[kilobravo]

Nice looking machine, I see it has the Kawasaki V-Twin. I'm a Briggs man, but those Kawasaki engines are far superior to the Briggs and Kohler equivalents.

Thanks, D and yep, I like Kawi engines. Had nearly the same one on the previous Scag although it was 19hp and this one is 22hp. Otherwise they look essentially identical.

That's a top of the line 3-cylinder diesel powered Ferris backed into the lake.

At first I thought the roll bar hit a limb and caused the wheelie but from what you said, it sounds like the boss just got too close to the edge. :=)

I looked at Kubota's diesel offering and wanted it badly but it was way too expensive. Then I saw a DFI model and wanted that too but like the other, too much money, so I settled for the tried and true. I am confident that it's the last mower I'll ever buy as it should outlast this old bastid. <smile>

Sorry to hear that, I hope you are on the mend.

Yes, I think I am and thanks, just some prostate laser surgery to hopefully reduce the number of trips to the head every night and so far, it's looking like it was successful.

The quickest and easiest way to get a sealant on your new mower would be something like Carpro Hydr02 Lite

A little goes a long way, so don't overdo it. Also don't let it dry on the surface, and don't use on dry surfaces, it MUST be wet.

Ordered some to try D but a couple questions. CP says,

"Spray fine mist of HydrO2 Lite on no more than 1/4 of vehicle before rinsing. Very little is needed and no overlap is needed."

Since a vehicle is much larger, can I get by spraying the whole mower before hitting it with the hose or should I duit in sections?

Will a leaf blower "blow off" be adequate after the final rinse?

Many thanks my friend.

 

[DFB5.0]

Thanks, D and yep, I like Kawi engines. Had nearly the same one on the previous Scag although it was 19hp and this one is 22hp. Otherwise they look essentially identical.

I looked at Kubota's diesel offering and wanted it badly but it was way too expensive. Then I saw a DFI model and wanted that too but like the other, too much money, so I settled for the tried and true. I am confident that it's the last mower I'll ever buy as it should outlast this old bastid.

The Ferris replaced a Kawasaki V-Twin powered Toro, so I know how good those engines are. And before that Toro, they had a single cylinder Krohler powered Toro. That Kohler was weak and loved burning oil.

In fact, the two V-Twin Krohler's on the mini loaders were chronic oil burners too. Granted, they had done a lot of work, but one in particular had a suspect cylinder that would foul the plug in short order. It would get so bad that it dropped the cylinder, at which point you'd have to stop what you were doing, pull the plug, clean it, then re-install. And because of the location in the chassis, access to the plug required a cut-down wrench.

I also have a hatred of the Krohler vertical shaft engines. Granted, the one I've had for 10-years has proven durable, even with a heavily tweaked governor. But it's always consumed oil, always been hard to pull over, always bogged down in thicker stuff where a Briggs would power through. That's why I tweaked the governor, using speed to compensate for the lack of torque.

There is only one word needed to describe Krohlers........................................

At first I thought the roll bar hit a limb and caused the wheelie but from what you said, it sounds like the boss just got too close to the edge. :=)

That mower was so rear heavy and had so much torque, all due to the Yanmar diesel engine, that it was super easy to pop a wheelie on it, almost too easy. So I'd say a combo of being too close to the soft lake edge and the tendency to want to raise the front wheel of the ground. I didn't get to use it much, but whoever I did, I would super cautious around the lake, more so the previous Toro's.

 

[DFB5.0]

Ordered some to try D but a couple questions. CP says,

"Spray fine mist of HydrO2 Lite on no more than 1/4 of vehicle before rinsing. Very little is needed and no overlap is needed."

Since a vehicle is much larger, can I get by spraying the whole mower before hitting it with the hose or should I duit in sections?

The reason for working small sections and rinse immediately is to avoid the product sitting too long or drying on the surface, it can otherwise cause spotting, especially on glass. Also, don't over apply, for example, three sprays would be enough to cover a full hood.

If its a mild day, you should be fine doing the whole thing at once. I'd probably do one side at a time. I just hold the pressure washer gun in one hand and the bottle of product in the other, then work my way around the mower spraying and rinsing. You can also spray into the stream of water, which will carry the product with the water (see video below). Once you have done both sides, make sure you do a thorough final rinse to fully remove any residual product. You will get what I mean once you start using it.

Quick Tips for Quick Beads (our water activated ceramic coating)

Will a leaf blower "blow off" be adequate after the final rinse?

Many thanks my friend.

Absolutely!

 

[kilobravo]

And because of the location in the chassis, access to the plug required a cut-down wrench.

I have seen fouled plugs before but never anything like that, D! Talk about burning oil, geeze. I had to look up "cut-down" wrench as I'd never heard the term and didn't find anything. Did find Cut DOWN wrenches. Does the name imply that the wrench is super thin or what? Regardless, making it difficult to change a spark plug on a mower is really poor engineering.

Also, don't over apply, for example, three sprays would be enough to cover a full hood.

If its a mild day, you should be fine doing the whole thing at once.

I'd probably do one side at a time.

Thanks for that info and recommendation to do one side at a time, Deyon. As for a "mild day," we won't see one of those until the Oct-Nov time frame. <smile>

But here's my last question on the subject..do I need to use the PW or will a hose with one of the "pointy end" nozzles do the trick? That nozzle won't work to spray on with the water at the same time however. I just don't have the luxury of a wall-mounted PW like you and others that gives quick access and dragging it out and getting it ready takes time I'd rather not spend.

Mowing day is tomorrow but I don't have the Hydr02 Lite yet so I guess I'll give it a normal blow, rinse, and blow dry but it should be here by the next mow so I'll letcha know how it goes and as always, many thanks!

 

[DFB5.0]

I have seen fouled plugs before but never anything like that, D! Talk about burning oil, geeze. I had to look up "cut-down" wrench as I'd never heard the term and didn't find anything. Did find Cut DOWN wrenches. Does the name imply that the wrench is super thin or what? Regardless, making it difficult to change a spark plug on a mower is really poor engineering.

A cut down wrench is a highly technical device, a special, custom one-off tool that is.........................................made by chopping the end off a spark plug/bar wrench.

But here's my last question on the subject..do I need to use the PW or will a hose with one of the "pointy end" nozzles do the trick? That nozzle won't work to spray on with the water at the same time however. I just don't have the luxury of a wall-mounted PW like you and others that gives quick access and dragging it out and getting it ready takes time I'd rather not spend.

Mowing day is tomorrow but I don't have the Hydr02 Lite yet so I guess I'll give it a normal blow, rinse, and blow dry but it should be here by the next mow so I'll letcha know how it goes and as always, many thanks!

Normal garden hose is fine, just that the pressure washer can be quicker/easier.

 

[kilobravo]

A cut down wrench is a highly technical device

Ahhh, so that's what it is! Yep, I have a couple three or four of those from chainsaw purchases. <grin>

Normal garden hose is fine, just that the pressure washer can be quicker/easier.

Thanks D, I figured it was OK just wasn't sure having never used the product.

Mowing day today but still no Hydr02 Lite yet.

 

[DFB5.0]

Tool Cleaning Day………………………………

Surprise, surprise, I like clean tools. Considering my line of work, that isn’t always possible, so it ends up being an occasional attempt. It doesn’t help when someone returns a borrowed tool in dirty condition…………………….

Kranzle K1152 –

This was actually on the to-do list waaaay back in September last year. Someone borrowed my beloved pressure washer without asking, then returned it covered in mud…………..and no apology. That same person also borrowed my new MS271 chainsaw, then returned it filthy and covered in sap. Anyway, the day I was going to return the pressure washer to DFB-spec, my Dad decided he would borrow it as well……………………………. I only got it back on Monday, 9-months later! My neighbour once told me that “you can lend your wife, but not your chainsaw”. Not a very PC thing to say these days, but the notion of not lending good tools I can certainly appreciate, thus I don’t recommend lending your $2000 pressure washer or near-new chainsaw.

Ironically, the best way to clean a pressure washer is..............with another pressure washer. But first, the hose was dragged all the way out, then Brake Buster applied to it and the machine itself. A little light agitation with a soft brush, then everything was rinsed. Following that, some Hydr02 to assist with drying, then Shine Supply Decked Out to add some lustre to the plastics.

I feel so much better now!

Husqvarna 522L -

I bought this trimmer back in November 2018, and I have to say, it’s been one of the most reliable pieces of machinery I’ve ever owned. At the time, it was the first non-Stihl branded tool I had bought, so a leap of faith on my part. And it was a leap that’s paid off.

And over the 6.5-years it’s been in service, I’ve done very little to it. Service items include 1 air filter, 1 fuel filter, and 1 spark plug. The OE-fit cutting head was replaced by a Speed feed head, which had its bump cap replaced last year. The muffler spark arrestor has been removed and inspected probably three times, but this thing burns so clean that I’ve never needed to clean it. And finally, regular greasing of the gearbox. Other than that, I’ve not had it break down or require repair.

Out of curiosity, I recently yanked the muffler off to inspect the bore and piston, both look almost new. Other than the initial fill from the dealer when I bought it, this unit has been run exclusively on Stihl HP Ultra. Just a word of warning, when shopping, there are two "HP" oils. The regular red HP is mineral based, and despite claims otherwise, I've found this stuff plugs up exhaust screens and exhaust ports in no time. The HP Ultra is fully synthetic and a murky green/brown colour.

Being a fully synthetic 2-stroke oil, it's said to burn cleaner, which means less carbon deposits both inside and out of the engine. The lack of carbon keeps the muffler screen and exhaust port cleaner for longer, which means less maintenance and more performance. Stihl also suggests HP Ultra can clean the piston, crankcase and cylinder of engines ran on mineral based oil and fuel mixes. I have seen where it did indeed lightly remove carbon from an older engine, but it's probably better to start using it from the beginning of the engine's life. It's expensive, but that is balanced by reduced maintenance and longer machine life. There is a certain subset who don't like this oil, some even calling it muddy-water-fuel. But as far as I'm concerned, the proof is in the pudding.

I'm very much a numbers man, so this is a basic run down of what the 522L has cost me over the years, excluding fuel.

Purchase Price 2018 - $424.00 (in 2025, these retail for $679!!)
Air Filter – $19.50 (Filter and pre-filter)
Fuel Filter – $17.95 (OEM)
NGK BPMR8Y Spark Plug – $7.95
Speed Feed Head – $59.95
Head Bump Cap - $25.00
Grease - $3.00 (approx.)

TOTAL: $557.35 (AUD)

Considering the number of lawns it has been used on over the last 7 years, that total is miniscule. In addition to its reliability, I specifically love how light this machine is compared to every other straight-shaft trimmer on the market, just 4.2 kg where most start at 5.0 kg. The 522L also has an excellent anti-vibration system that cured the jitters I would get from previous trimmers. In both cases, I'd happily pay a premium for those benefits.

Anyway, I was looking at the 522 the other day and thought it was about time to remove the years' worth of grime that had accumulated.

Another thing to admire with the 522L is how the majority of the exterior components can be removed independently. This is especially noticed on the starter, which can be removed for service via three T27's and without other pieces needing to come off the machine.

Each piece was pre-soaked with Surfex HD at 1:1, then scrubbed in the parts washer, which has Surfex mixed at 4:1. The exception being the starter, which in an attempt to avoid oversaturating the recoil parts, I used compressed air first to remove the bulk of the grime. After each piece was scrubbed, I rinsed using clean water and applied Meg's Hyper Dressing.

From there, I used compressed air, Surfex and the pressure washer to clean the engine assembly, shaft, gearbox and debris guard. The air filer on a trimmer never really need attention due to how the engine operates above the dust zone, so I just gave them a quick blow out.

It was then time to reassemble.........................

Back to spec! Here's hoping I get another 7-years out of it.

 

[kilobravo]

Dude, you made your 1152 look like NEW!

But the thing is, I have trouble finding the motivation and energy to wash a car let alone the dang pw. <smile> In my defense, unless I get out before the sun comes up, the rest of the day is too damn hot to do most anything outside.

I specifically love how light this machine is compared to every other straight-shaft trimmer on the market

I had a Husqy chain saw that was nothing but a PITA while the Echo that it replaced has been nearly flawless.

Speaking of weight, have you tried an electric trimmer yet? The Milwaukee I got seems to be about half the weight of my Echo straight shaft. I did have a strange issue with it where the motor wouldn't run every so often but that seems to have disappeared. It's been perfect since.

Back to spec! Here's hoping I get another 7-years out of it.

I hope you do, D.

Meanwhile the Hydro2 hasn't arrived yet so after my helper used the Kubota for the first time mowing on Sunday, I just gave it a good blow, rinse, and blow dry. VRP on the black trim has been holding up nicely and man that mower does a nice job.

 

[DFB5.0]

Speaking of weight, have you tried an electric trimmer yet? The Milwaukee I got seems to be about half the weight of my Echo straight shaft. I did have a strange issue with it where the motor wouldn't run every so often but that seems to have disappeared. It's been perfect since.

While I use battery power for hedge trimmers, I still need the gas power for trimmers and lawn mowers, purely for the ability to run all day without messing about with batteries.

 

[radar]

D, bought first home in Croydon in 79. Dad got sick of me borrowing his Victa and wrote me $200 cheque to buy my own at Myers.
Served me many years, kept it as spare, upgraded to second hand Mustang sometime late 80s.

Son bought first house in Sunbury in October. I carried on tradition, but he wanted electric green one from Bunnings. Ryobi? Weighs as little as a vacuum cleaner and does his lawn on single charge.
Guess the Victa was my first Mustang

 

[DFB5.0]

D, bought first home in Croydon in 79. Dad got sick of me borrowing his Victa and wrote me $200 cheque to buy my own at Myers.
Served me many years, kept it as spare, upgraded to second hand Mustang sometime late 80s.

Son bought first house in Sunbury in October. I carried on tradition, but he wanted electric green one from Bunnings. Ryobi? Weighs as little as a vacuum cleaner and does his lawn on single charge.
Guess the Victa was my first Mustang

A Victa Mustang was, and STILL is the very best lawn mower you can buy. Bar none! I'll say that again..........................NONE!

In essence, a Victa Mustang refers to Victa's top end model with a cast aluminium deck and full-fat engines. This means they last longer than the average povo-spec steel decks and aluminum bore engines.

In a technical sense, I got my first Mustang in the early 2000's when my grandfather gave me his 1970's Mustang.



The first Mustang I bought was an early 2010's Briggs and Stratton DOV powered model. Nice mower, but the engine was weak. I sold it and bought the same thing but with the Hercules engine, the 190cc Briggs 850. I only bought the DOV powered one because the 850 wasn't available at the time.

Next, well this was a bit of a nostalgia play. Knowing Victa were stopping production of the 2-Stroke engine, I wanted one of the last 2-Stroke Mustang's. Bought brand new in 2015, its a lifer for me.



While the 160cc engine size between the two Mustang's above is the same, they are very different engines. The original Victa 2-Stroke used a conventional layout with cast aluminium crankcase halves and a cast cylinder "jug" bolted on. The later engines from 1984 onwards used a fully cast-iron single piece block and cylinder, which are actually what they term "half-crank" engines. While both engine types are very durable, the later cast iron engines are virtually bullet proof. If someone was to straight-gas one, they can be revived with a quick hone and new piston, good to go! You can't say that about most lawn mower engines.

Full crank -

Cast iron half crank -

The newest Mustang being this 750iS powered version, which has the electric start.

So yeah, I've had a few. My favorite? The old green original, and the modern 2-Stroke equivalent. I don't care what anyone says, but a 2-Stroke engine will cut smoother, quicker and with less chance of stalling. Noisy? Oh course! Smokey? Yep! And they are all the better for it! I get that same shiver done my spine at the sound of a 2-stroke Mustang hunkering down under load as I do a V8 Mustang snorting back through the firewall.

 

[DFB5.0]

This would have to be the most used and abused machine I have, a Stihl BG86C converted to a SH86C vacuum.

While it started life as a leaf blower, which ran for many years until it mysteriously locked up. That meant the immediate purchase of a brand new one blower and the old one sidelined. This unit sat in the shed for several years before, by chance, I discovered the issue where the crankcase bolts wind out over time and prevent the flywheel from turning. With those bolts nipped up, I suddenly had two BG86’s. Being the older of the two, I converted the repaired unit to permanent vacuum duty.

Using vacuum mode is not easy on these machines. First, you have a lot of junk being drawn into and flung out of the impeller. They do make a blade attachment that bolts onto the crankshaft in front of the impeller, of which I have a couple lying around somewhere but never bothered to fit them.

You also have the weight of the intake tube, outlet tube and bag that bears down on the impeller cover. In fact, I had cracks develop and eventually blew through the side of the cover, which was replaced by a used part I tracked down on eBay.

Then there is the dust created by lifting material from the ground and into the bag, as opposed to blowing it away from the machine. Naturally, this is hard on the air filters. The dust also gets into every part of the machine, no doubt contributing to the failure of the ignition switch and wiring loom.

So yeah, this BG86C has had a hard life in my hands. Which brings me to today and the replacement of the bag. I actually had two of these vacuum kits, which would have been handy today, but I have no idea where the other one is. So off I went to the Stihl dealer, and for a change, they had what I needed in stock!

Stihl Part Number – 42297089701

https://www.stihl.com.au/en/ap/vacuum-blower-bag-1620

These 45-litre “dust reducing” bags are a dual layer design that helps surpass dust without impeding airflow. On the outside is a finely woven canvas-type material, with the inner lining being a woven plastic not unlike plastic weed mat or garden waste bags. On mine, the inner material was breaking down at the inlet of the bag, which was preventing efficient airflow and causing it to block.

Being peak leaf collecting season, having the vacuum function correctly is crucial to the time saving potential of the unit. I also use it to clean up hedge clippings or removing debris from stone-mulched garden beds.

 

[Evolvd]

I never realized that lawn equipment was something people had a passion for lol. Different strokes for different folks! (See what I did there?)

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