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10R80 DIY REBUILD

19VelocityBlueGt

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Okay if anyone that has had their a10’s rebuilt did they change the seals or sealing rings? I have a basically a great transmission I’m only wanting to do an updated 10r80 rebuild with the ford updated parts better drum and container with extra clutches in the D.E,F clutch packs. New clutches and plates. The solenoid clip retainers. Along with a ratiotek valve body kit for better flow and firmer shifts increases torque holding to 12-18% they also have one that increases to like 30-40%. Do I need an overhaul kit and install everything in it? I’m only wanting to update the trans I figured any money saved could go towards a expensive ass torque converter.. Anyone that could let me kno any other parts required would be appreciated.
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Brokestang

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I have no idea how to rebuild one of these transmissions but it sounds like you're dropping some good money & I don't think I would leave out new seals just to end up with problems. Just my 2 cents worth.
 

CoyoteRacing

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Personally I’d reach out to @beefcake . He’s done a ton of research and testing with the 10R80, if he doesn’t have the answer he knows who will.
 

schmeky

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19velocitybluegt,

That's not a driveway procedure, or for the faint of heart.

You're going to need some special tools, i.e. a press of some kind, compression sleeves to get the clutch packs opened and back together, and you are NEVER going to get a new torque converter front seal into the stator housing. You'll need a new stator housing.

You should replace the sealing rings on the input shaft and you'll need the 10R specific sizer sleeve for this as well.

Raybestos is supposed to be offering an increased count D clutch pack, but it has been on backorder since 2023. I made my own by machining the pressure plate and alum apply piston in the D pack.

Ford made this thing difficult at best to work on. I have built 2, 10R's for my 2018.
 
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S550HPP

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I would get the whole kit incl upgraded clutches plus all the seals and sealing rings on top of your parts list, do the R&R myself 4-5 hrs, and send to trans shop for the rebuild work which is 4 hrs +/-, unless don't want to wrench now you know hrs is 8 max all in (Ford Book Time) plus parts.
 

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John S

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The 10R and GM 10L family of transmissions are like any other conventional planetary gear automatic transmission so if you have the right tools to service the clutch packs and size the solid Teflon seals to aid installation, any experienced rebuilder should have no issues. I don't know the field service procedures for setting proper clutch pack end clearances but follow proper the shop manual guidelines and good luck on the E-Clutch, the factory uses statistical methods when building up that "backwards" pack and I don't know how field-service procedures tackle that particular application. While you're disassembled, look into what's being done to address the walking CDF housing sleeve, the factory solution was to simply tweak the press fit and hope it solved the problem but the design is still flawed because there's no shoulder stop or other type of mechanical retention provision (that would add manufacturing cost.) Good luck.
 
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19VelocityBlueGt

19VelocityBlueGt

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19velocitybluegt,

That's not a driveway procedure, or for the faint of heart.

You're going to need some special tools, i.e. a press of some kind, compression sleeves to get the clutch packs opened and back together, and you are NEVER going to get a new torque converter front seal into the stator housing. You'll need a new stator housing.

You should replace the sealing rings on the input shaft and you'll need the 10R specific sizer sleeve for this as well.

Raybestos is supposed to be offering an increased count D clutch pack, but it has been on backorder since 2023. I made my own by machining the pressure plate and alum apply piston in the D pack.

Ford made this thing difficult at best to work on. I have built 2, 10R's for my 2018.
Ya ive watched multiple videos on the 10R80 and will purchase a tech manual. It actually doesn’t seem that bad honestly. I’ve seen the intermittent shaft seal installer/resizing tools. There are cheaper plastic ones then the ford specific all steel one that’s close to 400$ 😩 I only have 12,000 miles with a trans flush already. I’ve also seen videos of guys using funnels and hoes clamps. I’ll look at the seals if they look good I’m probably not gonna touch them. I’m only updating the trans it doesn’t need completely rebuilt. I’ve already got a clutch pack spring compressor.
I was talking about a circle d converter. Not rebuilding my converter. That should slide right on in correct? I’m buying a little at a time and considering the price of these transmissions I can rebuild it for way less myself. Plus I’ll have the peace of mind which is what I’m going for. That drum definitely needs changed. I’ve already got the updated drum and basket and the bearing isn’t going anywhere in that one.
 
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19VelocityBlueGt

19VelocityBlueGt

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The 10R and GM 10L family of transmissions are like any other conventional planetary gear automatic transmission so if you have the right tools to service the clutch packs and size the solid Teflon seals to aid installation, any experienced rebuilder should have no issues. I don't know the field service procedures for setting proper clutch pack end clearances but follow proper the shop manual guidelines and good luck on the E-Clutch, the factory uses statistical methods when building up that "backwards" pack and I don't know how field-service procedures tackle that particular application. While you're disassembled, look into what's being done to address the walking CDF housing sleeve, the factory solution was to simply tweak the press fit and hope it solved the problem but the design is still flawed because there's no shoulder stop or other type of mechanical retention provision (that would add manufacturing cost.) Good luck.
Yes that’s the main response I’m updating my trans. They designed a complete new drum from that issue.
They have machined back end cuts to retain that bearing on the updated drum plus they have machined 6 more oiling holes directly into the bearing itself..

IMG_4649.webp
 
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19VelocityBlueGt

19VelocityBlueGt

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The 10R and GM 10L family of transmissions are like any other conventional planetary gear automatic transmission so if you have the right tools to service the clutch packs and size the solid Teflon seals to aid installation, any experienced rebuilder should have no issues. I don't know the field service procedures for setting proper clutch pack end clearances but follow proper the shop manual guidelines and good luck on the E-Clutch, the factory uses statistical methods when building up that "backwards" pack and I don't know how field-service procedures tackle that particular application. While you're disassembled, look into what's being done to address the walking CDF housing sleeve, the factory solution was to simply tweak the press fit and hope it solved the problem but the design is still flawed because there's no shoulder stop or other type of mechanical retention provision (that would add manufacturing cost.) Good luck.
They have machined back end cuts to retain that bearing on the updated drum plus they have machined 6 more oiling holes directly into the bearing itself..
Okay if anyone that has had their a10’s rebuilt did they change the seals or sealing rings? I have a basically a great transmission I’m only wanting to do an updated 10r80 rebuild with the ford updated parts better drum and container with extra clutches in the D.E,F clutch packs. New clutches and plates. The solenoid clip retainers. Along with a ratiotek valve body kit for better flow and firmer shifts increases torque holding to 12-18% they also have one that increases to like 30-40%. Do I need an overhaul kit and install everything in it? I’m only wanting to update the trans I figured any money saved could go towards a expensive ass torque converter.. Anyone that could let me kno any other parts required would be appreciated.
.
Here’s the updated basket. The anodizing is supposed to make it harder. Evidently the teeth were getting stripped in the old one causing the internals to fall or collapse down. You could essentially make these transmissions bomb proof. Just the new Raybestos gpz torqkit steels have all 15 teeth cut into them vs like 7 or 8. It honestly doesn’t seem as bad as everyone is going on about. Everything rides in that basket. Take apart and put back together and air check engagement and clearances on the clutch packs by blowing compressed air in the intermittent shaft. You can test the seals by hearing how much air bleed you have on each clutch packs when u do your air checks.

IMG_4651.webp


IMG_4650.webp
 

schmeky

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Get the ASTG (Automatic Transmission Service Group) service manual, or better yet take it to a really good trans shop (the very best if you such a shop) in your area and supply the upgrade parts. You'll save a lot if you can do the R&R.

If you want to remove the rear planets you'll need a special $200.00 socket, and
need a heat source for removal and reinstall as well. It's all in the ASTG manual.
 

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AcceptableNebula

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Depending on the clutches you use, you may need different snap rings to set your clutch clearances. My transmission only had 844 miles on it, I did not change my shaft seals as they were fine. I did get the Toledo Transmission rebuild kit with the Suncoast Stage 2 kit, so I did change my o-rings. I left the input/output shaft seals alone. I did buy the Ford ring sizer tool kit and output shaft remover incase I needed it, but they were fine.

If you do any racing/spirited launches, at bare minimum do the Suncoast transmission filter. The pickup is in the rear, and fluid starvation toasts up the steels quickly. I go into more detail in my build thread.
 

Zathras

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I can't help but wish you the best of luck. But as I read the title of this thread, I was reminded of a book on basic automotive repair I read many, many years ago, that had one passage that stood out to me:

"With some research, appropriate tools, and an ample supply of patience, even an amateur can repair, replace, or rebuild most components of an automobile. A modern automatic transmission, however, is not one of these components and therefore this type of repair is not covered in this publication."
 

Johnny Rockit

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If any seal is exposed you would be wise to replace it. It is well worth putting in the new tiddly bits while it is apart. Skimping on parts at this point is a fools errand.
 

DougS550

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I was quoted like 6k to built my 10R80 with the upgraded clutches etc. That's just crazy Sh*T high but, transmissions I have learned are a art and easy to FU. Good luck
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