Boundary Crank sprocket keeps sliding!

[jloshotz]

Should I try to impact it in or do I stick to the torque wrench…I have this bolt set aside for when I procharge the car but I’ll give this a bolt a try since it’s never been used before

Correct me if i am wrong, but i dont believe the ARP fastener would be TTY, should be able to reuse that bolt

Sponsored

 

[khanks]

Correct me if i am wrong, but i dont believe the ARP fastener would be TTY, should be able to reuse that bolt

Your correct like I said I have that bolt I didn’t try to use it yet i was using a new oem style bolt

 

[jloshotz]

Your correct line I said I have that bolt I didn’t try to use it yet u was using a new oem style bolt

Your correct line I said I have that bolt I didn’t try to use it yet u was using a new oem style bolt

Ok, use your balancer install tool, then send the balancer home with the ARP bolt. You should be able to look behind the balancer at the hub/snout to be able to tell if it is fully seated through the t/c seal. Then loosen the bolt (and use whichever bolt you’d like……hit it to torque spec. Problem SHOULD be solved at that point 🫡

 

[khanks]

Ok, use your balancer install tool, then send the balancer home with the ARP bolt. You should be able to look behind the balancer at the hub/snout to be able to tell if it is fully seated through the t/c seal. Then loosen the bolt (and use whichever bolt you’d like……hit it to torque spec. Problem SHOULD be solved at that point 🫡

How good are the threads in these cranks I don’t want to strip it out do I go until the bolt stops turning?

 

[SheepDog]

The OEM bolt is not long enough to be used to pull on the balancer, and does not bottom out in the snout of the crank.

 

[khanks]

The OEM bolt is not long enough to be used to pull on the balancer, and does not bottom out in the snout of the crank.

Is the arp stud long enough?

 

[jloshotz]

Is the arp stud long enough?

You really should start the balancer with a balancer intaller tool (i thought you had said that was how you WERE getting it started) THEN pull it home with the ARP bolt, looking behind the balancer at the backside of the hub, this way when there is no more “shiny” part of the hub showing through the front cove seal, you should be there or close. Then torque down your bolt of choice.

 

[SheepDog]

Is the arp stud long enough?

Is it the same length as the OEM bolt?

The installer has a bearing on it to reduce drag and marring the mating surface between the Balancer and washer. I'd be using that.

 

[khanks]

Is the arp stud long enough?

Is it the same length as the OEM bolt?

The installer has a bearing on it to reduce drag and marring the mating surface between the Balancer and washer. I'd be using that.

Yes some Length as oem but does have a fewer amount of threads

 

[khanks]

Ok, use your balancer install tool, then send the balancer home with the ARP bolt. You should be able to look behind the balancer at the hub/snout to be able to tell if it is fully seated through the t/c seal. Then loosen the bolt (and use whichever bolt you’d like……hit it to torque spec. Problem SHOULD be solved at that point 🫡

 

[khanks]

Is it supposed to be farther in? All my belts line up

 

[SheepDog]

Are you sure that this noise you are hearing actually has anything to do with the crank sprocket? When you keep taking everything apart, and relieving pressure from the balancer against the sprocket, it may just be walking forward a bit, but not actually leaving a gap when everything is assembled.

 

[khanks]

Are you sure that this noise you are hearing actually has anything to do with the crank sprocket? When you keep taking everything apart, and relieving pressure from the balancer against the sprocket, it may just be walking forward a bit, but not actually leaving a gap when everything is assembled.

Just pulled it all apart yea your right the sprocket was seated against the oil pump it wasn’t moving out everything is where its joins be and the balancer is against the sprocket…now I’m looking into possible a stretched chain, bad tensioner, or bad guides I’ll include videos of how the engine behind the timing cover looks without me doing anything since last starting it…also the first video I added is similar to the sound I was hearing and it was coming from that same side I’ll include the video from the first time I reassembled and heard the noise

lmk what you guys think..

 

[SheepDog]

How many miles on the car? In my opinion, you should be replacing the chains, tensioners and guides when you open it up like that.

 

[khanks]

How many miles on the car? In my opinion, you should be replacing the chains, tensioners and guides when you open it up like that.

The car is a 2017 with 42k

Sponsored