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Swapping to Steeda Pro Active Shocks and Struts, need help choosing springs

Mach 307

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As the title says I’m swapping over to Steeda pro active shocks and struts in April. I live in Chicago and the car is my daily driver as well as I don’t want to deal with camber bolts or plates, so I do NOT want to lower the car with aftermarket springs. I currently have base suspension and am planning on using the stock springs. I saw PP springs do not lower the car at all, and occasionally I do take the car to the strip. Would it be beneficial to upgrade to PP springs since I’m already paying the money to swap the shocks and struts?
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S550HPP

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For Chicago and area roads softer spring and actives are as good a.balance between comfort and handling as you can get always best to pair soft springs with stiffer dampers for bumpy roads. The activ s will help a lot.
 
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Mach 307

Mach 307

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For Chicago and area roads softer spring and actives are as good a.balance between comfort and handling as you can get always best to pair soft springs with stiffer dampers for bumpy roads. The activ s will help a lot.
Sounds exactly what I’m looking for, the PP springs wouldn’t be too much stiffer than base, no?
 

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When I test drove the PP2 vert over hyper trashed washboards, troughs and holed city streets it was even better than Magneride in comfort.

You should be fine with them, but you are likely better off with current stock if comfort it priority over a 5% handling gain you will use 2% of the time.
 
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Mach 307

Mach 307

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Ok so I did some research, Steeda minimum are .5in drop front and rear, BMR minimum are .875in drop front and .5in drop rear
These are the diff spring rates
Steeda Min Drops: 200/800
BMR Min Drops: 170/740
GT: 160/668
GT PP: 165/728

Hoping I can confirm the drop level for the BMR minimums calling Monday, as I don’t see it on their website.

BMR minimums seem best of both worlds if they’re above a 1in drop and close to stock spring rate.
 
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Mach 307

Mach 307

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Went Steeda minimums after more research!
 

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I‘m in the middle of the same project myself using minimum drop springs except I am using ford track pack shocks/struts.

IMG_0376.jpeg


IMG_0374.jpeg
 
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Mach 307

Mach 307

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I‘m in the middle of the same project myself using minimum drop springs except I am using ford track pack shocks/struts.

IMG_0376.jpeg


IMG_0374.jpeg
Our cars are almost identical! Let me know how it is
 

Palma

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Will do; I‘m a slow mechanic and thank god my wife is out of town for the long weekend so I have the ability to take my time and enjoy the process.
 

Palma

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Our cars are almost identical! Let me know how it is
Got it all back together last night! Drove it around for about 25 minutes and my first impression is it’s very nice. A comfortable ride, not harsh at all and we have speed bumps in our neighborhood and crappy roads where I live.
IMG_0396.jpeg
Zero body roll. I can feel the difference in the IRS dowels and brackets when I get on the power. No nose dive on hard braking. Shockingly, it drives pretty damn straight. I‘m still going to get an alignment appointment tomorrow. I definitely learned a lot and lucky I have the free time to do it and not rush as I’m retired. Spent about 200 bucks in tools. It was worth it to me. The steeda minimum drop was a little more than 1/2” not quite 3/4“. I’m happy. It tightened up the handling and I set both sways on full soft. I might change that.
 

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Mach 307

Mach 307

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Got it all back together last night! Drove it around for about 25 minutes and my first impression is it’s very nice. A comfortable ride, not harsh at all and we have speed bumps in our neighborhood and crappy roads where I live.
IMG_0396.jpeg
Zero body roll. I can feel the difference in the IRS dowels and brackets when I get on the power. No nose dive on hard braking. Shockingly, it drives pretty damn straight. I‘m still going to get an alignment appointment tomorrow. I definitely learned a lot and lucky I have the free time to do it and not rush as I’m retired. Spent about 200 bucks in tools. It was worth it to me. The steeda minimum drop was a little more than 1/2” not quite 3/4“. I’m happy. It tightened up the handling and I set both sways on full soft. I might change that.
Man that sounds great! Exactly what I’m looking for. Roads around here aren’t great either so happy to hear there isn’t any harshness. I got my springs delivered today also. Glad to hear you had an enjoyable time doing it, wish I could do it myself but don’t have that same amount of time with work and school at this time of my life (24yo).
 

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It’s a small change in height, but visually it made a big difference to me. I did just discover that one side of my car is slightly lower than the other. But, upon reflection, I think it was from the factory too. I noticed it when putting my jack stands under it the other day. I only measured one side prior to working on it. Just something to be aware of.
I’m gettin the alignment done tomorrow and asked they ”clock the bushings” which the agreed to do. The shop is race focused at the track so I think I’ll be in good shape with them rather than a regular shop here in town.
 
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Mach 307

Mach 307

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It’s a small change in height, but visually it made a big difference to me. I did just discover that one side of my car is slightly lower than the other. But, upon reflection, I think it was from the factory too. I noticed it when putting my jack stands under it the other day. I only measured one side prior to working on it. Just something to be aware of.
I’m gettin the alignment done tomorrow and asked they ”clock the bushings” which the agreed to do. The shop is race focused at the track so I think I’ll be in good shape with them rather than a regular shop here in town.
I don’t know if this is the same issue but I’ve actually heard the subframe can be slightly off from factory up to a 1/2 inch. Steeda actually makes a fix for this with their IRS subframe alignment kit. I’m really uneducated on this stuff, but sounds like that’s what it might be!
 

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It’s a small change in height, but visually it made a big difference to me. I did just discover that one side of my car is slightly lower than the other. But, upon reflection, I think it was from the factory too. I noticed it when putting my jack stands under it the other day. I only measured one side prior to working on it. Just something to be aware of.
I’m gettin the alignment done tomorrow and asked they ”clock the bushings” which the agreed to do. The shop is race focused at the track so I think I’ll be in good shape with them rather than a regular shop here in town.
[/QUOTE

Do you notice a slight difference in height from the front and rear? I ask cause I have the same springs along with their Pro Action adjustable shocks and struts and the rear sits almost a 1/2in lower than the front.

I know it’s very slight but it’s already bothering me lol…
 

Palma

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I don’t know if this is the same issue but I’ve actually heard the subframe can be slightly off from factory up to a 1/2 inch. Steeda actually makes a fix for this with their IRS subframe alignment kit. I’m really uneducated on this stuff, but sounds like that’s what it might be!
I installed the steeda IRS alignment kit when I did the rear end. That gave me some issues at the end that I had to overcome with just getting it all lined up.
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