What's In DFB's Cabinet?

[HoosierDaddy]

The Jaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaag's turn today................

Wheels and paint washed with the transcendent Carpro Reset. I cycle through so many soaps that when I return to Reset, its always an aahaa moment because it reminds me of how bloody good it is. Makes me wonder why I bother trying anything else.

Couldn't agree more. Thanks for introducing Reset to me. Probably would never have tried it because the name didn't even imply the usage.

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[HoosierDaddy]

Question. My 2016 has temporarily been parking outside 24/7 for the first time in its life. Central Arizona summer, so interior temperatures into the 140s of maybe higher. The windows keep getting some kind of coating that even Invisible Glass barely does more than spread it around. I'm guessing its some kind of outgassing but from what? The car is almost 9 years old.

Since there may be a common solution, I have another car that like the Mustang has windows that slide between some kind of rubberlike guides when closed. But with this car, those guides leave something on the top and leading edges that does not want to come off. You can't see it unless the windows are open or partially down. I even tried adhesive remover, and it didn't make a dent. It will come off just from a lot of hard rubbing with a bone-dry high nap towel but would take about an hour per window (4 of them). Glass cleaner actually slows that down, so it appears to be just friction with the towel that is wearing it off. If there is a solution, I'm guessing it may be a two-parter. (1) how to remove the stuff and (2) something for the "rubber" to stop or slow down the return.

Never had either problem in 60 years of car ownership.

 

[skinnyb]

Today I managed to get the Mustang out for some filming. Some of the videos won't be for public viewing, especially the otherwise perfect video ruined by me fluffing the 2nd to 3rd upshift and getting 5th instead, rookie! Or the first video that had me full-on ABS panic braking as a dog wandered into the middle of the road.

For the most part, these videos are to have something to look back on, a reminder of what I loved about this car. These are two that I'm content with, I still have a long way to go in developing even modest videography skills. Video is extremely time consuming, in addition to the above dog and fluffed shift, I was contending with road debris, traffic, even a white heron loitering at corner exit.............see if you can pick it.





Just another boxed ticked as I farewell this car.

Great vids. I watched them both. So interesting and bizarre to me being in the US to see a POV of a right hand driven manual shift car. The shifter just seems so unnatural to me, but I guess it's what you get used to I need to get my head mount and get a few POV vids and put up on the Tube I have a few but no POV stuff...

 

[Evolvd]

Great vids. I watched them both. So interesting and bizarre to me being in the US to see a POV of a right hand driven manual shift car. The shifter just seems so unnatural to me, but I guess it's what you get used to I need to get my head mount and get a few POV vids and put up on the Tube I have a few but no POV stuff...

What really throws you off is you expect the shift gates to be opposite on a RHD car. They are not. 1st gear is still up and left typically with 6th being the closest to your left leg. The blinkers and wipers however are swapped. When I lived in England and Japan they called it the “tourist wave” because LHD drivers would press the left stalk to signal a turn and instead would activate the wipers

 

[50ALM]

What really throws you off is you expect the shift gates to be opposite on a RHD car. They are not. 1st gear is still up and left typically with 6th being the closest to your left leg. The blinkers and wipers however are swapped. When I lived in England and Japan they called it the “tourist wave” because LHD drivers would press the left stalk to signal a turn and instead would activate the wipers

As I sit in the QANTAS lounge at LAX enroute back home from Chicago, this put a smile on my face.

I only managed to do the wipers instead of indicators once in 9 days.
Or was it twice?

But then again, maybe I shouldn't have bothered with the indicators... very few seemed to use them.

Another thing I noticed is that a lot of people playing with their phones, both when driving (the looking down makes it obvious) and especially sitting at lights. I'm very conscious of idiots behind me, because my last vehicle was written off by some some clown who rear ended me. There are absolutely no excuses for that.

 

[DFB5.0]

What really throws you off is you expect the shift gates to be opposite on a RHD car. They are not. 1st gear is still up and left typically with 6th being the closest to your left leg. The blinkers and wipers however are swapped. When I lived in England and Japan they called it the “tourist wave” because LHD drivers would press the left stalk to signal a turn and instead would activate the wipers

I drive enough "Euro" spec cars with the "incorrect" wiper/turn single arrangement that I only occasionally make the mistake. The Jaguar and its Ford Mondeo predecessor, as well as the VW Crafter and Renault Traffic vans at work are all the "wrong way around".

Great vids. I watched them both. So interesting and bizarre to me being in the US to see a POV of a right hand driven manual shift car. The shifter just seems so unnatural to me, but I guess it's what you get used to

As you say, its what you get used to. I'm right handed too, so it does take some additional training to master shifting with the left hand.

need to get my head mount and get a few POV vids and put up on the Tube I have a few but no POV stuff...

Whenever I want to try something new, Youtube is such a great resource. For POV filming, channels such as AutoTopNL, Tedward and TheTopher do it very well.

AutoTopNL - YouTube
TheTopher - YouTube
Tedward - YouTube

This video was my baseline for camera POV mounting. Note that he doesn't mount the camera on top of his head in order to give a more natural look. It took me a bit yesterday to find the best balance and position of the clamp on my hat.

Amazon.com : Sametop Backpack Strap Mount Quick Clip Mount Compatible with Gopro Hero 12, 11, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, Session, 3+, 3, 2, 1, Hero (2018), Fusion, Max, DJI Osmo, Xiaomi Yi Action Cameras : Electronics

 

[DFB5.0]

Question. My 2016 has temporarily been parking outside 24/7 for the first time in its life. Central Arizona summer, so interior temperatures into the 140s of maybe higher. The windows keep getting some kind of coating that even Invisible Glass barely does more than spread it around. I'm guessing its some kind of outgassing but from what? The car is almost 9 years old.

Outgassing still occurs, you may also find that if you are using a protectant such as 303 or Perl will contribute.

Whenever you have a build up like this on glass, you need to clean a few times, each attempt with a fresh set of towels to avoid smearing the film around over and over. It's also extremely important that the glass is cold to touch and not in direct sunlight when attempting this as the glass cleaner will evaporate too quickly and won't properly break down the grime.

If you don't have sufficient glass towels for the job, I would start with paper towel soaked down with glass cleaner for the initial mow-down passes. Then go back and repeat using microfiber.

If you are still having issues, then you would probably need to step it up with something like Angelwax Vision or Bilt Hamber Traceless. Just be careful with Vision, its pretty nasty.

Angelwax Vision | Glass Cleaner | Spray | Obsessed Garage Store
Bilt Hamber Trace-Less | Streak Free Glass Cleaning | Obsessed Garage

Since there may be a common solution, I have another car that like the Mustang has windows that slide between some kind of rubberlike guides when closed. But with this car, those guides leave something on the top and leading edges that does not want to come off. You can't see it unless the windows are open or partially down. I even tried adhesive remover, and it didn't make a dent. It will come off just from a lot of hard rubbing with a bone-dry high nap towel but would take about an hour per window (4 of them). Glass cleaner actually slows that down, so it appears to be just friction with the towel that is wearing it off. If there is a solution, I'm guessing it may be a two-parter. (1) how to remove the stuff and (2) something for the "rubber" to stop or slow down the return.

Never had either problem in 60 years of car ownership.

1. You have already gone with an adhesive remover, so it will need to be abraded.

Is this on the inside or outside of the glass, and are the windows tinted?

Using P&S Clarity Creme, I would be polishing the glass with a beater towel (you'll ruin it). Obviously, if the windows are tinted, you probably would not do this on the inside of the glass. If this fails, you would then need the sledgehammer, Carpro Ceri-Glass (go for the kit so that you get the small rayon applicator, otherwise they are sold separately).

P&S Detail Products - Clarity Creme Glass Polish | The Rag Company
CARPRO CeriGlass Polish Kit (150ml) (carpro-us.com)
CARPRO Glass Rayon Hand Applicator (carpro-us.com)

2. Stopping it from reappearing would be a lottery. I would probably try something like KCx PSS Plast Star as it will last a bit longer than a typical trim dressing. Otherwise, wipe them over with Reload every few months.

Koch-Chemie - Plast Star Silicone-Free | The Rag Company
CARPRO Reload 2.0 500ml (17oz) (carpro-us.com)

 

[DFB5.0]

After yesterday's thrashing, it was only natural that a wash would follow for the Mustang....................

Can Coat EVO topped with ADS Amplify................

Wheels and tyres washed with Brake Buster, paint with the remainder of a bottle of ADS Shampoo+. Drying Aid ADS Amplify, interior via ADS Pilot and the tyres dressed with OG TD.

For the Ranger this week, I washed the wheels with P&S Frostbite, which I also used as a pre-soap for the paint. Safe to say that Frostbite is a HIGH foaming soap!

For the contact wash, I recommenced my trial of "wash & coat" soaps, this time Shine Supply Shine Soap. This is a pH neutral formula that is said to work "perfectly with any wax, sealant or coating." Like most of these soaps, this is not a high foaming product.

best car wash soap (shinesupply.com)

Get Shine Supply Shine Soap Online | Waxit – Waxit Car Care

I've come to the conclusion that these soaps are not for me, Shine Soap included. While they certainly add some slickness to the equation, they lack the foaming ability that I prefer and have a strange feeling underneath the wash media. Shine Soap also seemed to alter the underlying coating more than the others, and scent wise, it smells the same as P&S Inspiration Radiance.

Of the collection of these soaps I bought to trial, I have yet to try Gyeon Bathe+, its convoluted and time-consuming suggested application method does not appeal. Of the ones I have used, I much preferred the Ethos version as it foamed properly and felt the nicest to work with. Carpro Hydr02 Foam seemed to have the most potency. Inspiration Radiance produced the most visible difference.

While I can see these soaps have a purpose, they are targeted at a very specific user who just wants some beading and gloss without having to apply a ceramic coating, wax or sealant. For me, what they bring to the table does not out way their lack of foaming ability, lower cleaning potential, so-so slickness or weird scents. Full comparison on its way.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Outgassing still occurs, you may also find that if you are using a protectant such as 303 or Perl will contribute.

Whenever you have a build up like this on glass, you need to clean a few times, each attempt with a fresh set of towels to avoid smearing the film around over and over. It's also extremely important that the glass is cold to touch and not in direct sunlight when attempting this as the glass cleaner will evaporate too quickly and won't properly break down the grime.

If you don't have sufficient glass towels for the job, I would start with paper towel soaked down with glass cleaner for the initial mow-down passes. Then go back and repeat using microfiber.

If you are still having issues, then you would probably need to step it up with something like Angelwax Vision or Bilt Hamber Traceless. Just be careful with Vision, its pretty nasty.

Angelwax Vision | Glass Cleaner | Spray | Obsessed Garage Store
Bilt Hamber Trace-Less | Streak Free Glass Cleaning | Obsessed Garage

Didn't think of temperature or sunlight. Temperature won't be easy even at night in summer. Car is outside locked with windows up for security, critters and weather. So ~140f inside and stays hot 24/7. But I can try driving with AC blasting in early morning. And try Vision if that wasn't enough. Thanks.

You have already gone with an adhesive remover (on the other car's glass), so it will need to be abraded.

Is this on the inside or outside of the glass, and are the windows tinted?

Less on outside but the material the glass is sandwiched between appears and feels to be the same, so can't say why worse on inside unless just more pressure against the glass on that side.

I almost always special-order my vehicles and have NEVER tinted my windows. Only tinted windows I recall ever having were on a new SVT Focus the dealer slapped on before I ever saw the car.

Using P&S Clarity Creme, I would be polishing the glass with a beater towel (you'll ruin it). Obviously, if the windows are tinted, you probably would not do this on the inside of the glass. If this fails, you would then need the sledgehammer, Carpro Ceri-Glass (go for the kit so that you get the small rayon applicator, otherwise they are sold separately).

P&S Detail Products - Clarity Creme Glass Polish | The Rag Company
CARPRO CeriGlass Polish Kit (150ml) (carpro-us.com)
CARPRO Glass Rayon Hand Applicator (carpro-us.com)

Thanks. Will go straight to Ceri-Glass. It sounds like it might even leave the glass smoother so possibly less likely to adhere to the rubber.

2. Stopping it from reappearing would be a lottery. I would probably try something like KCx PSS Plast Star as it will last a bit longer than a typical trim dressing. Otherwise, wipe them over with Reload every few months.

Koch-Chemie - Plast Star Silicone-Free | The Rag Company
CARPRO Reload 2.0 500ml (17oz) (carpro-us.com)

If you are familiar, would Gummi Pflege Stift be worth a try? I just found a bottle in my huge collection of never-used impulse buys. LoL

It was kind of my exception that proves the rule I have about never researching products with obtuse names. But this name was so off the wall, I had to read what it actually was for and then ordered.

 

[DFB5.0]

Didn't think of temperature or sunlight. Temperature won't be easy even at night in summer. Car is outside locked with windows up for security, critters and weather. So ~140f inside and stays hot 24/7. But I can try driving with AC blasting in early morning. And try Vision if that wasn't enough. Thanks.

From experience, when I've rushed to get the glass done after the car has been otherwise parked in the sun, its always turned out to be a smeary mess.

As long as the glass has had a chance to cool down from being subjected to full sun exposure, you should be fine. You could also hose down the exterior of the glass to help things along.

With Vision, it has ammonia in it, which is typically not recommended for car interior glass cleaning. It's supposed to be tint safe, but I would avoid getting it onto any plastic surfaces, so spray it into the towel and not directly onto the glass. I would do a pass with Vision, swap towels and use Invisible Glass.

Less on outside but the material the glass is sandwiched between appears and feels to be the same, so can't say why worse on inside unless just more pressure against the glass on that side.

I almost always special-order my vehicles and have NEVER tinted my windows. Only tinted windows I recall ever having were on a new SVT Focus the dealer slapped on before I ever saw the car.

Thanks. Will go straight to Ceri-Glass. It sounds like it might even leave the glass smoother so possibly less likely to adhere to the rubber.

Just be careful with Ceri-Glass, its nasty stuff to work with. Working by hand you will have more control as it won't sling around like it does on a polisher. You will need a damp towel to remove the residue, then a second towel to finish off.

If you are familiar, would Gummi Pflege Stift be worth a try? I just found a bottle in my huge collection of never-used impulse buys. LoL

It was kind of my exception that proves the rule I have about never researching products with obtuse names. But this name was so off the wall, I had to read what it actually was for and then ordered.

I have used Gummi Pflege in the past, the bottle applicator format makes it easier to apply. Certainly worth a try.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Just be careful with Ceri-Glass, its nasty stuff to work with. Working by hand you will have more control as it won't sling around like it does on a polisher.

Thanks.

Since it took so much effort to abraid off with a dry towel, I pinchd the glass edge inside the folded towel. Did not want to put large side loads on the glass. That's what I will try with the Ceri-Glass. The contaminated area is so narrow at the top and front edges that even the small included pad may be wide enough to cover inside and outside at the same time when wrapped around. If not, I'll just put the pad inside the folded towel so I can continue to apply equal pressure to inside and outside. Not a massive amount of pressure anyway since just how hard I can squeeze.

 

[DFB5.0]

Thanks.

Since it took so much effort to abraid off with a dry towel, I pinchd the glass edge inside the folded towel. Did not want to put large side loads on the glass. That's what I will try with the Ceri-Glass. The contaminated area is so narrow at the top and front edges that even the small included pad may be wide enough to cover inside and outside at the same time when wrapped around. If not, I'll just put the pad inside the folded towel so I can continue to apply equal pressure to inside and outside. Not a massive amount of pressure anyway since just how hard I can squeeze.

The pad included with the Ceri-glass kit has a specific "rayon" material, it will over more cutting performance than microfiber.



Also, be very careful with getting Ceri-glass residue on paint or rubber trims, it's extremely abrasive on paint and will stain rubber trims badly.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Also, be very careful with getting Ceri-glass residue on paint or rubber trims, it's extremely abrasive on paint and will stain rubber trims badly.

Will do! Thanks.

 

[larr12]

Here's the scenario. Im running out of P&S Interior Cleaner Express. I love the product l, the smell and the price. I dilute it 1:1 and works great.

I was thinking on trying something different. Maybe Adam's Total Interior cleaner or Armour Detail Supply Pilot.

I know Adams and Pilot leave some UV protection behind.

Opinions?

 

[skinnyb]

Pilot is nice. Light cleaning and light protection. I have not tried Adams interior. P&S Express is purely a cleaner, and a great one at that. I use it a lot. But no protection that I know of. I always follow Express with a dressing, usually Koch Chemie Top Star which is a nice matte finish dressing that works and looks great.

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