Nice heads-up. I will consider it, although i don't think more air will be sucked as I'm not opening the inlet wider, instead insulating the sureoundings so it pics cold air from the feont only.
No, not really. For sure it is pressed more firmly to the upper edge of the air filter (the last photo shows it very clearly) but I don't see any bouncing. It is more rigid though and does not flex at all. Removing it requires both hands, can't be removed with one hand as I showed in the video some time ago.
air temp is at/near Throttle Body, no? the intake and exhaust valves DO overlap so sure, some reversion is possible.
Yes. So as I don't have OBD and FORscan, I am looking at the numbers on the dash. So, for a basis, I take the oudoor temperature shown on the upper left corner of the dash. When the outdoor temperature shows 22deg. C (76F), the IAT on the dash gauges on just warmed engine shows 26-27C(79-81F) without the cover. With the cover shows 24-25C(77-78F). Idling on red light after the engine has warmed up good, and the engine bay is relatively hot, the IAT shows 44-45C(111-112F). When engine braking IAT shows 33-34C(91-92F), and driving with moderate rpm (between 1800 and 3500) the IAT drops again to 27 with the lid on, where in all cases the outside temp was reported by the car the same 22C(76F)
that seems pretty severe even for heat-soak. Can you sit at idle but force the rad fans to run? I'm guessing the eddy-currents are such that you get reversion from the radiator and feeding the hot air back into the factory 'snorkel'.
I’m curious about this one too. This past weekend when stuck in line to get in the park, my inlet temps were bouncing between 180-210°F, ambient was about 85°. I’ve noticed any kind of idling brings them up to this range after a little while. A snorkel might be the way to go along with that cover.
Indeed it does. This summer we had daily temps around 36C(97F) and the IAT was showing 55C(131F), which keeps the 20 degree difference.
On the thumb screws - very nice idea. I will consider it once I get my head around final version of the lidVelossa Tech do two mustang snorkels, one might be adaptable to for the M1 fascia ? This is the 2018+ version :
@Rhyanski - ref the plexiglass removal.
Drill a 3mm hole in it, fit one of these in a colour of your choice :
Pop a lock nut on the underside
Personally, once the template is done and knowing what plexiglass tends to look like after a few years, I would get them cut from 3mm matt carbon and colour code the thumbscrew to suit the car / car accents ...
WD
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Have you taken notice after installing the Steeda pop kit struts that your passenerside trunk body panel will start to make contact w trunklid chipping the paint off?? It has happened to me on my 2021 roush and the 2023 mach 1............. Something is going on w them...Did a few small things that I’ve been putting off for no good reason.
1. swapped my steeda low profile jacking rails for steeda full length. The extra 15” of usable rail length will fit my 7000 series quick jacks much better.
2. Adjusted up my defouler on my LTH to make sure they’re out of harms way. I had plenty of cable but rotating the defouler up makes me feel better
3. Installed Steeda trunk pop kit. While I was at it I discovered the bumper button to open the trunk. Am I the only person on the planet that didn’t know this existed? I always used the fob. Nice. The steeda No wing/small wing kit works perfectly with my gt350 wing. Nice controlled to full open.
Will take a pic after work. Its the same damn exact spot 2x on 2 diff cars. I added that kit because the GT500 wing.
