Anyone know what wire I accidentally cut into here?

[revolio_gt]

Installing an 18+ IM on my 16. There was a zip tie right there that I cut with scissors (pita to get to, on the back of the manifold) but looks like I barely snipped the purple wire. Is that something I need to fix? I am locking out my IMRCs for reference, so maybe I don't need to? How would I even fix it if I do needd to? solder?

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[Timbuck]

I don’t know what it is , but as you only just nicked it And it looks like you only just took the outer plastic off an hit and didn’t cut wire ?? Just electrical tape it and it will be fine.
maybe some close up pics would be better to show us A bit more detail.

 

[revolio_gt]

Here’s a still from the vid, it’s def severed in 2

 

[K4fxd]

Looks cut to me. You gotta fix it. Solder is best.

 

[Skye]

I cannot tell you what the wire is, but the attached might help determining what all is inside that bundle.

 

[Skye]

Two more.

Glad it is one lead. You might spend more time making room for the repair than doing the repair itself.

Good Luck.

 

[JetGray_Mach1]

I would solder the wire back together + shrink wrap the cable. Then electrical tape the whole bundle.

 

[ORRadtech]

I would solder the wire back together + shrink wrap the cable. Then electrical tape the whole bundle.

I'm not a big fan of soldering wiring in cars. The heat can weaken the copper and it creates two points that can be prone to breaking. Especially in vibration prone areas. My preference is a good crimp connector that encorporates solder in the center and a weather seal heat shrink insulator.
If you really look at automotive wiring you will not find solder anywhere. The only place solder is used by any manufacturer is soldering pins to a circuit board. Every thing else is crimped.
Also, don't use plastic electrical tape to repair the harness. There's a special fabric harness tape that seals better and doesn't deteriorate into a sticky mess like plastic tape does.

 

[wingnutt]

solder seal crimps are the latest thing (google it if you don’t know) used em on my F150 that got squirrel’ed…and no, factories don’t solder because they don’t fix things, they just build new stuff.

but I agree on the tape, toss the plastic crap, find some self-vulcanizing, rock on

 

[JetGray_Mach1]

I'm not a big fan of soldering wiring in cars. The heat can weaken the copper and it creates two points that can be prone to breaking. Especially in vibration prone areas. My preference is a good crimp connector that encorporates solder in the center and a weather seal heat shrink insulator.
If you really look at automotive wiring you will not find solder anywhere. The only place solder is used by any manufacturer is soldering pins to a circuit board. Every thing else is crimped.
Also, don't use plastic electrical tape to repair the harness. There's a special fabric harness tape that seals better and doesn't deteriorate into a sticky mess like plastic tape does.

Fair enough. Well normally you apply light solder to the wires the shrink wrap holds the wire and connection together. But I am not disagreeing with you. What is your preferred crimped connector for automotive applications?

 

[JetGray_Mach1]

There is so many to choose from! Can someone make some recommendation for the good ones in amazon, I want to stock up on some good stuff myself.

 

[wingnutt]

yes…

https://www.amazon.com/Amliber-Connectors-Solderstick-Waterproof-Electrical/dp/B0BXKHBDFB/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1S6V2S2U1CTKD&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.C3xIs1gQHhlvtjZent3I_yqSyTeZrPz7A6Xm9ajms_ZMSmxSFyyyXyTIMl1Qq2_JZ8bJlf4Q35UKFC92FWgbbTUxBIKcWhB6pSQJQl4kfN8QazKAS9yD04uBeUiH2HhctIZrKkrYNKWbwNIxPModNPM2isr-0aZ2hDJCIbD4MHVJBNCXzXk7agYIoqqgL2XOef1L3uVk_olFiHZZQ6HziZfpJRdE9SwmOLn9t4-CB9A.aU_X-7SBoI6QN8OS7SX8dyIsDyJxqEp_MfhCO1GQBYU&dib_tag=se&keywords=solder+seal+wire+connectors&qid=1709959473&sprefix=Solder+sea,aps,180&sr=8-7

…even comes with a cute little heat gun

 

[JetGray_Mach1]

yes…

https://www.amazon.com/Amliber-Connectors-Solderstick-Waterproof-Electrical/dp/B0BXKHBDFB/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1S6V2S2U1CTKD&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.C3xIs1gQHhlvtjZent3I_yqSyTeZrPz7A6Xm9ajms_ZMSmxSFyyyXyTIMl1Qq2_JZ8bJlf4Q35UKFC92FWgbbTUxBIKcWhB6pSQJQl4kfN8QazKAS9yD04uBeUiH2HhctIZrKkrYNKWbwNIxPModNPM2isr-0aZ2hDJCIbD4MHVJBNCXzXk7agYIoqqgL2XOef1L3uVk_olFiHZZQ6HziZfpJRdE9SwmOLn9t4-CB9A.aU_X-7SBoI6QN8OS7SX8dyIsDyJxqEp_MfhCO1GQBYU&dib_tag=se&keywords=solder+seal+wire+connectors&qid=1709959473&sprefix=Solder+sea,aps,180&sr=8-7

…even comes with a cute little heat gun

lol thanks

 

[ORRadtech]

So I guess technically the butt connectors with the solder aren't crimp connectors. But when used correctly they do am excellent job without making the wire vulnerable. The caveat to using them is to not use too close to a high heat source like directly next to exhaust. The low melting point of the solder in them means they could remelt. And,of course, you don't always need a butt connector so crimp on ones with heat shrink are good to have too.
The connectors above are as good as any. Wirefy also makes good ones. They also make these crimp ones. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1WWR7...lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM
And to complicate things even more, be sure to use the correct crimping tool. Insulated connectors need a different tool than uninsulated ones.

 

[revolio_gt]

Well I tried to solder it and put everything back on. Wasn’t the best solder job because it was difficult to get to and my iron is a $20 piece of shit. Seeing one code which is P0023, I’m guessing it’s related?

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