Kenetic Crank Saver and Whipple MFP Crank Support

[19BULLITTwhipple]

Are the crank saver stud and the crank support able to be installed together?

The instructions dont list the stud. Wondering if there are any drawbacks to using the stud vs using the bolt listed in the instructions.

Whipple 3.5 pulley, 6 rib gen 5 Whipple

Thanks in advance.

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[bankyf]

I have the crank support on the car and the stud sitting on a shelf because I haven't gotten a chance to put it on yet. I don't see any reason why it won't work or any disadvantage. I have definitely heard of people using both. Keep in mind that once you put the stud on, you really need to remove all of the plugs if you want to turn the engine over with the nut.

 

[bankyf]

If you haven't tried to put the crank support on yet, make sure they included the small machined washers (spacers). Mine wouldn't bolt down without hitting the balancer. I thought they forgot them, so had Lethal send me a set and then later found them in the box. Good thing I had a second set because it took both to get it spaced out enough

 

[J17GT]

I just picked up a MFP crank support for my whipple setup. What is the consensus on the crank bolt to use? ARP? Stock? Kinetik stud? I'm assuming you still discard the large washer no matter which route you go?

*2 year thread bump!

 

[Angrey]

If it will work, it can't hurt to use the crank saver, I'm not familiar enough with the details of the crank support, but once the support is on, it would help to reduce/prevent longitudinal drift of the end of the crank, which is where most of the failures derive.

The crank saver attempts to do the same thing, just by infilling the space and gaps around the crank bolt, so it has virtually nowhere to wander.

I'm guessing there's some sorta engineering and thought that went into why the diameter of the exterior crank and the receiver for the balancer bolt aren't coordinated. I'm guessing that a wider diameter on the crank attachment helps from a number of standpoints (imagine trying to attach to a thin cylinder of steel) and instead of using a ginormous, way oversized fastener, and instead of leaving the snout infilled with steel, they left it hollow for weight/rotational savings.

In theory, a high quality fastener, torqued and stretched optimally would not allow the bolt/balancer end to flex or wander, or provide bad harmonics, but there's obviously some sort of magic to filling up the void and making it so that the balancer can walk or vibrate less on the end of the snout.

Doing both seems like belt and suspenders, but couldn't hurt.

 

[J17GT]

Appreciate the reply. I'm assuming this crank support was designed with the stock Ford bolt being used. They state when installing the snout hub and crank bolt to discard the large washer you would normally use. The snout hub itself takes the place of the washer with how it's designed.

My question is, are the washers used with the ARP bolt or stud kit the same thickness as the factory washer? I would think yes, but I guess the only way to know for sure would be to order one and measure it. I would just want to be sure I have full bolt engagement or not risk the bolt being too long.

Probably overthinking this. Maybe I'm not making sense... LOL

 

[SheepDog]

same thickness as the factory washer?

I would think the issue would be the diameter of the washer, more than the thickness. I assume they want you to discard the washer, as it wont fit inside the snout hub extension gizmo. If you use a stud instead of a bolt, then the overall length wont matter as much but like you said, if they intend on you using the OEM crank bolt but discarding the washer, then the thickness of the hub section that contacts the bolt head would have to be very similar to the washer you throw away. Otherwise the bolt may or may not have enough thread engagement on it. I don't think the OEM bolt comes anywhere near engaging all the way to the bottom of the threads in the crankshaft. You could also go with the Apex Torque stud kit, and then just source a new nut and washer that fits inside the hub.

 

[80FoxCoupe]

I just picked up a MFP crank support for my whipple setup. What is the consensus on the crank bolt to use? ARP? Stock? Kinetik stud? I'm assuming you still discard the large washer no matter which route you go?

*2 year thread bump!

Post up a picture of the crank mandrel. That will help in determining what will work.

 

[J17GT]

Post up a picture of the crank mandrel. That will help in determining what will work.

Here’s a pic of the bottom and did the best I could to get a decent pic of the inside.

 

[J17GT]

One more

 

[80FoxCoupe]

Here’s a pic of the bottom and did the best I could to get a decent pic of the inside.

What balancer does this fit?

 

[J17GT]

What balancer does this fit?

I’m planning to use it with my stock balancer. Many use it with ATI balancers as well. I’m only running a 6 rib setup.

 

[80FoxCoupe]

I’m planning to use it with my stock balancer. Many use it with ATI balancers as well. I’m only running a 6 rib setup.

Really need to have both the arp bolt and kinetic stud in hand while taking measurements. As others said, the mandrel could take the place of a washer in theory. General rule of thumb for a bolt is thread engagement equals diameter. I personally would want 2x diameter in this application. The crank snout has a counter bore that is larger than thread diameter. This means there is a gap around the stock or arp bolt. The kinetic stud has a shank diameter that fits closely in the counter bore. This larger shank bottoms out where the threads begin. The threads themselves do not bottom out. You would need to ensure the nut is fully engaged on threads with the new stack.

 

[J17GT]

Really need to have both the arp bolt and kinetic stud in hand while taking measurements. As others said, the mandrel could take the place of a washer in theory. General rule of thumb for a bolt is thread engagement equals diameter. I personally would want 2x diameter in this application. The crank snout has a counter bore that is larger than thread diameter. This means there is a gap around the stock or arp bolt. The kinetic stud has a shank diameter that fits closely in the counter bore. This larger shank bottoms out where the threads begin. The threads themselves do not bottom out. You would need to ensure the nut is fully engaged on threads with the new stack.

I follow you. Although if this support is doing its job, maybe the stock bolt is all I need. Going along with the belt and suspenders theory.

 

[Angrey]

Truth be told, something this torque crucial should have always been a stud and a nut.

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