2023 GT Premium - My Twin Turbo Build

[AcceptableNebula]

It's Alive

It's been a bit since I've updated this. Just have been insanely busy at work and just put my spare time into getting the car together. It is running pretty well considering. I was able to shut off the codes from active air shutters, so I could finally remove the shutter motor.

I got the Eibach drag springs in the front and it got its first bath in 8 weeks. I was shocked the Eibach springs were a pound heavier each yet 1" shorter.

There are a few more things left to do, including doing the catback and installing the new exhaust valves I made. Also still waiting on the correct front wheels to arrive. I was told they would ship this week, but I'm not holding my breath.

-Catch can
-Cortex Boost Controller
-Catback

Once I check those boxes off it should be good to go for tuning.

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[AcceptableNebula]

Active Exhaust Valves

I assembled and tack welded the exhaust valves together today. I am going to hopefully have time to modify the Kooks catback exhaust this weekend. I still need to make the brackets to accept the Ford actuators, and pray they close clockwise. If not the valves are reversible pretty easily. After everything is fitted, I'll finish stitching the caps on and I'll weld the screws that hold the flaps on.

 

[AcceptableNebula]

I was able to take the factory exhaust down. Weighed it complete, the one piece system that includes the suitcase muffler. Came in a 66lbs 10oz.

Of course because I just assumed the valves closed clockwise, both sides close counter clockwise. I'm glad I only semi welded the caps on the exhaust valves.

I gotta get my Cortex Boost controller installed before it gets tuned. I have 7 lbs springs in my wastegates, but I would like to be able to turn it up to make sure I have enough power without overtaxing the stock bottom end. I just can't find a good spot for a rectangular box thats hidden. So I decided to put it in a vent pod. I see a lot of 3D printed holders but I decided to make mine out of aluminum. Plus they don't replace the front louver panel, just support the 4" long Cortex box, but still allow some airflow. I will Cerakote them before putting them in permanently. I modified the front flaps so they open up to reveal the controller, but will still close to hide it/stop air flow. I removed the tie bar between them and removed the lower stop for the flap. Picture is to show the concept, as nothing is actually assembled.

 

[NGOT8R]

Great job on the build, everything turned out beautifully!

 

[AcceptableNebula]

Was able to get the boost controller mounts Cerakoted. While I had it mixed up, I coated the 3rd revision of the washer tank bottom. Figured I couldn't go wrong with aluminum, so I used the same design I 3d printed. Still haven't found the final spot for the washer tank, but it's on my list.

My GT500 injectors arrived. After looking at the injector data from a 2020 GT500 tune, these should be around 62lbs/hr, and the factory GT port injectors are around 28lbs/hr. My plan is the outgrow these sooner than later, but for now they seem like a good fit.

Will hopefully get the boost controller in tomorrow.

 

[AcceptableNebula]

Was able to make the plate to accept the actuator spring. Just have to make up the brackets to hold the actuators and they will be ready for testing.

I also assembled the boost controller into the vent assembly. Just need to hook up the wiring and it'll be good to go.

 

[Whitedevil95]

Nice work! I am gonna start following this build.

 

[AcceptableNebula]

Well I've been really busy with other stuff but I did order a new radiator cover. Ever since seeing @DeadSpool 's engine bay, I realized mine needed some extra help. I don't want to mess with the manifold at the moment because I am still working out my options for that. Once I've made a choice, then I will worry about the atheistics of the wiring/tubing/fuel lines on the intake. I decided to try a Carbon Fiber radiator cover. I don't want to fall down the CF rabbit hole but I think I like this so far.

The factory plastic weighs 1 lb 11 oz. This CF one from TruFiber weighs 1 lb 10.5 oz.

 

[DeadSpool]

Well I've been really busy with other stuff but I did order a new radiator cover. Ever since seeing @DeadSpool 's engine bay, I realized mine needed some extra help. I don't want to mess with the manifold at the moment because I am still working out my options for that. Once I've made a choice, then I will worry about the atheistics of the wiring/tubing/fuel lines on the intake. I decided to try a Carbon Fiber radiator cover. I don't want to fall down the CF rabbit hole but I think I like this so far.

The factory plastic weighs 1 lb 11 oz. This CF one from TruFiber weighs 1 lb 10.5 oz.

Looking good! Ya it’s a total rabbit hole lol. Next you gotta make it run like this:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/4200lbs-running-8’s-on-just-18psi.191738/#post-3850094

 

[AcceptableNebula]

I was able to get the wiring harness all done for the boost controller. I brought the wires back thru the center console as it will eventually control fuel pumps #2 and #3 based on boost, and a signal wire to install a Flex Fuel sensor. While I'm not sure I will use it for boost control, I'm just not going to carry a little tube with me to know the ethanol content. I also ran the wires to install the Canbus module so I can have boost by gear. I will mess with that later since I won't need BBG this year.

After a total of 23 weeks, my matching wheels from RSR Forged finally arrived. I guess it doesn't matter because the car wasn't really driven much during that time period. I am very happy with them and the overall look but now the brakes like horrible. Fortunately there is no weight penalty for up sizing being monoblocks. The fronts were about 7oz lighter than stock wheels/tires.

I still have to finish the catback and change the injectors then I'll start doing some street tuning. Will more than likely delete the IMRC from the tune and lock them out too.

 

[AcceptableNebula]

Well today kinda spiraled out of control. Started the morning washing the car. Decided that with the catback down, it would be a great time to put the rear Eibach drag springs in and the Viking shocks w/billet shock mounts. Well, the amount of stuff that had to come off to get the springs out made me think now was as good of a time as any to redo the rear suspension.

One thing that is alarming is each Eibach rear spring is 5 lbs (66%) heavier than the stock spring, which is 7.6 lbs. I am not sure I want to install them now. There may be a better alternative like an airbag setup inside the stock springs that would give me adjustability.

I opened the diff to put on the MMR Billet cover. I really didn't want to put it on, cuz I strongly dislike them, but I bought it before knowing how much they suck. Rather than letting it collect dust I installed it. In typical MMR fashion, it was 25% heavier than the stock one. They also don't include any plugs for the holes. The drain and fill plugs swap over, but my car doesn't have anything to put into the 2 extra 1/8 NPT holes. I was able to save 6.4 oz by mounting the cover with race spec titanium bolts. The MMR provided bolts were just A2 stainless bolts, so the titanium is an upgrade. I found it funny that the Limited Slip spring actually spells out LS in both directions.

I got the cradle and diff back in. I removed the factory bushings from the cradle and installed Whiteline poly bushings for the differential and cradle mounts. I will get more pics tomorrow.

During this change, I am swapping the following in.

DSS 2000HP axles
DSS CF Driveshaft
Whiteline Bushings
MMR Diff Cover
BMR Billet Upper Control Arms
BMR Billet Tie Bars
AAD Billet Toe Rods
Cortex LCA Bearings
Ford Performance LCA Toe Rod Bearings
Viking Double Adjustable Shocks
UPR Billet Shock Mounts
BMR Driveshaft Safety Loop
ARP Wheel Studs

 

[AcceptableNebula]

Today I pressed out the LCA bushings and Toe Rod bushings out of the knuckles, then installed the new bearings. The ARP studs went in nicely too.

I got most of the rear end back together but ran into a snag with the AAD toe rods. They provide camber lock out plates, as the rods are the adjustment device. Unfortunately the M12 bolts provided don't fit into the M10 holes in the plates. They are also too small to span the distance between the stops on the cradle. So I will just make my own tomorrow night and finish up the last few components remaining.

I ended up installing the Eibach springs. After some research, all the other brands of drag springs are similar in weight, and reference the need for more control under hard launches.

 

[NGOT8R]

How much trouble did the RLCA bushing removal and bearing install give you? I bent up a brand new 12 ton shop press when I did mine and had to enlist the help of my buddy, who had a much bigger press to finish the job.

 

[AcceptableNebula]

How much trouble did the RLCA bushing removal and bearing install give you? I bent up a brand new 12 ton shop press when I did mine and had to enlist the help of my buddy, who had a much bigger press to finish the job.

They came right out without issue. I turned a mandrel that was 0.010" smaller than the bushing sleeve OD for each one. This gave me even pressing force over the bushing. My car only has 550 miles on it so I would imagine it only gets worse with any age.

 

[DeadSpool]

Today I pressed out the LCA bushings and Toe Rod bushings out of the knuckles, then installed the new bearings. The ARP studs went in nicely too.

I got most of the rear end back together but ran into a snag with the AAD toe rods. They provide camber lock out plates, as the rods are the adjustment device. Unfortunately the M12 bolts provided don't fit into the M10 holes in the plates. They are also too small to span the distance between the stops on the cradle. So I will just make my own tomorrow night and finish up the last few components remaining.

I ended up installing the Eibach springs. After some research, all the other brands of drag springs are similar in weight, and reference the need for more control under hard launches.

looking great sir! I just did all of mine last winter.


BMR Solid billet Diff Mounts
Kelltrac Big Bertha Bolts
Kelltrac Bushing upgrade kit w/irs lockouts
FRPP Toelink bearing
Iron 8.8 diff case
Frpp Torsion diff
3.15 FRPP gears
FRPP Wheel hubs

Bought AAD camber arms I’ll install this winter too.

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