2023 GT Premium - My Twin Turbo Build

[AcceptableNebula]

Today I pressed out the LCA bushings and Toe Rod bushings out of the knuckles, then installed the new bearings. The ARP studs went in nicely too.

I got most of the rear end back together but ran into a snag with the AAD toe rods. They provide camber lock out plates, as the rods are the adjustment device. Unfortunately the M12 bolts provided don't fit into the M10 holes in the plates. They are also too small to span the distance between the stops on the cradle. So I will just make my own tomorrow night and finish up the last few components remaining.

I ended up installing the Eibach springs. After some research, all the other brands of drag springs are similar in weight, and reference the need for more control under hard launches.

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[NGOT8R]

How much trouble did the RLCA bushing removal and bearing install give you? I bent up a brand new 12 ton shop press when I did mine and had to enlist the help of my buddy, who had a much bigger press to finish the job.

 

[AcceptableNebula]

How much trouble did the RLCA bushing removal and bearing install give you? I bent up a brand new 12 ton shop press when I did mine and had to enlist the help of my buddy, who had a much bigger press to finish the job.

They came right out without issue. I turned a mandrel that was 0.010" smaller than the bushing sleeve OD for each one. This gave me even pressing force over the bushing. My car only has 550 miles on it so I would imagine it only gets worse with any age.

 

[DeadSpool]

Today I pressed out the LCA bushings and Toe Rod bushings out of the knuckles, then installed the new bearings. The ARP studs went in nicely too.

I got most of the rear end back together but ran into a snag with the AAD toe rods. They provide camber lock out plates, as the rods are the adjustment device. Unfortunately the M12 bolts provided don't fit into the M10 holes in the plates. They are also too small to span the distance between the stops on the cradle. So I will just make my own tomorrow night and finish up the last few components remaining.

I ended up installing the Eibach springs. After some research, all the other brands of drag springs are similar in weight, and reference the need for more control under hard launches.

looking great sir! I just did all of mine last winter.


BMR Solid billet Diff Mounts
Kelltrac Big Bertha Bolts
Kelltrac Bushing upgrade kit w/irs lockouts
FRPP Toelink bearing
Iron 8.8 diff case
Frpp Torsion diff
3.15 FRPP gears
FRPP Wheel hubs

Bought AAD camber arms I’ll install this winter too.

 

[AcceptableNebula]

Was able of finish things up tonight. I had to make toe lockout plates as the AAD toe bar ones included were not meant for this kit. I don't have the time to wait for them to send replacements so it was easier to make them myself. These were the item I was most excited to install. However, the opening to accept the bearing was 0.004" too small, and 0.006" on the other side. 6061 aluminum is not good at flexing and will generally crack before bending. Doesn't sound like much, but considering it only takes 0.0002" for 1 object to enter another, it's quite a bit of flex.

I haven't done all the math yet but even though some weight was added, I feel like after the dust settles it'll be net zero or lighter than the stock setup. Each spring was 5 lbs more, and each axle was 5 lbs more. The big winner of the night was the Carbon Fiber driveshaft. The factory 2 piece weighed in at 29lbs 5oz. The DSS driveshaft weighed in at exactly 16lbs. Upper Control Arms saved 2 lbs per arm. The old factory bushing pieces together weighed 9 lbs, due to each having a metal sleeve and large internal bolt sleeve.

At the end of it all, I'm actually very proud of myself. Not for what I did, but for what I didn't do. Usually when I have something completely dismantled, I can't resist the urge to coat and protect every part. I attached the only photo I could find tonight of my GTO where everything was powdercoated, even the undercarriage was bedlinered. If I did that now, snow would be here before I got the Mustang on the track.

Maybe l'll relapse over the winter...

 

[Decible]

@AcceptableNebula When you do the 350R brake / suspension conversion let me know how it goes. It’s something I want to do and and think I’m going to use the 2020 updated R knuckles and SPL parts to finish it out.

 

[furdfan2018]

ABSOLUTE next level build. Very cool!!

 

[AcceptableNebula]

I got the BMR drivehshaft safety loop in. Seems pretty pointless with a CF shaft but I'll see what tech inspection says about it. I'd love to take it off as its 8 lbs of unnecessary weight. If they make me keep it, I'll probably remake it out of aluminum and recoat it in the same hammertone powder coat. I doubt anyone is getting under it with a magnet. Its a far back as the mount will but only leaves about 1/4" of clearance.

I found this puke tank/breather box from a seller on ebay that sells stuff from NASCAR racing teams. It's all carbon fiber and extremely light. Just had to machine a little spacer to accept an AN fitting. We'll see how it holds up.

Last thing was the vent tube to the MMR differential cover. The new shape stopped the hose/plastic line from reaching it. After putting a 90 degree bend in the plastic line using a heat gun, and positioning the clamps, I got enough extra line to reconnect the vent line.

 

[AcceptableNebula]

Today I was able to get some work done on the catback. I took the Kooks catback and hacked it up. I wanted the Kooks because they typically use a high quality 304 stainless, and no one makes what I am making anyway. By flipping the mufflers around, I could get the offset and clearance to a run a pipe around the outer side of the mufflers. This additional pipe will house my active exhaust valves I made. I definitely thought I would have more room for the piping. I cut half of the slip joints off as I will weld all of the joints. Leaving off the clamps and 2" of pipe along many joints will reduce the weight. The slip joint gives me some flexibility in angles, and makes overlapping welds instead of butt welds.

The whole purpose of this project is to make an Active Exhaust system that meets many different needs. Having the valve inside a performance muffler is cool, but the lowest level is that of the performance muffler that it is attached too. By putting the valve equipped pipe in the orientation of a J pipe, when the valve is shut, it theoretically will function as a Helmholtz resonator. I am not sure I will make it to the 25" mark with the valve but I will get as close as I can. So it will make it as quiet as possible and also as loud as possible using the factory sound modes.

You may have noticed the V-bands on the mufflers. The second function of it was to save weight at the track. Since the turbos function as mufflers to some extent, I want to be able to drop my mufflers completely when I race and install 2 straight pipes in their place. IIRC, each muffler weighs like 10-12 lbs. I will weigh them again to get the exact figure.

More to come...

PS: the tips are not welding in yet and are just placed there for spacing purposes.

 

[AcceptableNebula]

Well the exhaust is mostly done but I still need to make the replacement pipes for the mufflers. I also finished the exhaust valves and tested them. I will have to do the calibration process tomorrow as the valves worked fine in all positions but ended up tripping a code for performance. After a quick Google, it seems common when moving the valves motors from one exhaust to another. Ended up putting them on V-bands in case I need to take them out to adjust something in the future.

Will have a some more pictures tomorrow.

 

[furdfan2018]

Keep it coming!

 

[AcceptableNebula]

Well I got the exhaust all finished up today. Took a lot longer than I expected, even with the help of a friend. I was quickly reminded how much of a pain cutting stainless with a hole saw was. Getting it setup in the mill required an aluminum slug to be put in the pipe as the vise was just crushing the pipe.

This is a picture of both setups at once. Being able to remove the mufflers saves a total of 15 lbs. I made these lighter weight brackets a few weeks ago off rough measurements for the muffler delete pipes. The delete pipes assembled and welded come in just over 3 lbs vs 10.5 lbs for the welded muffler/tip setup. I did completely luck out with the offset 45 elbows I ordered. Putting them together was almost the perfect offset to match the Kooks mufflers. I didn't even have to alter them at all.

I did not get a chance to weigh the entire system but it's on my to do list. I had an alignment appointment already booked, so I brought the car there. I will pick it back up tomorrow and get some more exterior pics.

 

[NGOT8R]

Well I got the exhaust all finished up today. Took a lot longer than I expected, even with the help of a friend. I was quickly reminded how much of a pain cutting stainless with a hole saw was. Getting it setup in the mill required an aluminum slug to be put in the pipe as the vise was just crushing the pipe.

This is a picture of both setups at once. Being able to remove the mufflers saves a total of 15 lbs. I made these lighter weight brackets a few weeks ago off rough measurements for the muffler delete pipes. The delete pipes assembled and welded come in just over 3 lbs vs 10.5 lbs for the welded muffler/tip setup. I did completely luck out with the offset 45 elbows I ordered. Putting them together was almost the perfect offset to match the Kooks mufflers. I didn't even have to alter them at all.

I did not get a chance to weigh the entire system but it's on my to do list. I had an alignment appointment already booked, so I brought the car there. I will pick it back up tomorrow and get some more exterior pics.

Beautiful job as always! Any sound clips to share with us?

 

[AcceptableNebula]

Beautiful job as always! Any sound clips to share with us?

Not yet. I have to still get the valves to calibrate and I created the base file Thursday night. The stock tune would barely idle the car, as the vacuum source to the IMRC was removed but the tables 1-13 were still active. My guess is it will sound better once I get some more tuning in.

The valves work fine, and I don't have an SES light on anymore but they still pout and return to Normal. It may just take some time.

The goal is to hit one of the track rentals on the first 3 Fridays in October.

 

[NGOT8R]

Not yet. I have to still get the valves to calibrate and I created the base file Thursday night. The stock tune would barely idle the car, as the vacuum source to the IMRC was removed but the tables 1-13 were still active. My guess is it will sound better once I get some more tuning in.

The valves work fine, and I don't have an SES light on anymore but they still pout and return to Normal. It may just take some time.

The goal is to hit one of the track rentals on the first 3 Fridays in October.

Let‘s goooo!

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