Steeda progressive install. One thing ive noticed.

[Sleeperls]

About to tackle this as soon. As everything comes in. In all the vids they never show them trimming the rear bump stop. Also reading through alot of the comments folks say something ablock clocking bushings.

Any insight?

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[JustSomeGuy]

After the car is lowered the bushings need to be clocked. It essentially means sit the car on the ground on the wheels, loosen the bolts at bushing pivot points, which allows them to reorient to the new ride position, then torque the bolt again. You need blocks to set the car on so that it’s on the wheels but lifted so you can still get under the car.

 

[NightmareMoon]

The bushings reduce travel before you 'bottom out', but also soften the impact when bottoming out. Its way better to hit a bumpstop before you hit metal on metal of shock body to upper mount. (or spring fully compressing). on the other side, if you have a bit more range before the rate starts going up fast when it gets into the bumpstop, that's better than touching the bumpstop.

So if you're lowering more than 3/4 then taking some off the bumpstop isn't a bad idea. Keep in mind the travel at the shock is less than the travel at the wheel, and you do want some progressiveness as the bumpstops compresses.

Anytime you lower a mostly stock mustang, you need to clock all the pivot points in the suspension with rubber bushings, or the suspension will bind and won't settle at the right ride height (and you'll have some strange dynamics as the twisted bushings resist movement).

 

[Sleeperls]

Thanks fellas. I'm still stuck in early foxbody days. Everything on my drag/street car is hein joint so no worries about binding. Such a wide spectrum of owners its nice to see a few fellows with some actual knowledge and not hear say.

 

[shogun32]

Such a wide spectrum of owners its nice to see a few fellows with some actual knowledge and not hear say.

M6G doesn't do 'hearsay' - just as long as you post in Suspension section.
Oil and engine bolts-ons/tune though I won't vouch for. /JK

I recommend reading the next 20 pages of threads. You'll breeze thru it in no time.

 

[1958cyclist]

After the car is lowered the bushings need to be clocked. It essentially means sit the car on the ground on the wheels, loosen the bolts at bushing pivot points, which allows them to reorient to the new ride position, then torque the bolt again. You need blocks to set the car on so that it’s on the wheels but lifted so you can still get under the car.

Should one also loosen and retighten the sway bar saddle bushings and end links, and possibly shorten them as well? Torque specs for those could also be helpful.

 

[JustSomeGuy]

My understanding is that sway bars and end links should be torqued under the weight of the car as well, similar to “clocking”.

The info I have saved for toque specs;

Rear Sway Bar Mount (13mm): 52 ft/lbs.

Rear Sway Bar End Links (15mm / 18mm / 6mm allen): 85 ft/lbs.

Stabilizer Bar Bracket Bolts: 52 ft/lbs.

Front Sway Bar End Links (18mm / 17mm): 85 ft/lbs.

Front Sway Bar Mounts (18mm):

 

[Wraith_S550]

They send detailed instructions and they have them on their site also

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