SSG 5.0
Well-Known Member
honestly, from 4xx hp and 200 shots looks to be alright like you mentioned. These engines easily can hold 700 rwhp. I think the engines are that stout from 15 and up.
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That’s a very nice jump and the torque that nitrous produces is just nasty. Damn itI picked up 170 rwhp off of a 150 shot on E85, taking me from 469 rwhp/434 rwtq to 639 rwhp/602 rwtq. That’s around 709 hp at the crank, taking into consideration that the drivetrain consumes 11% of the power.
I’m with you, I’ve covered all those bases. My ProMax controller has so many safety features, TPS activation, low fuel pressure shutoff, high/low bottle pressure shutoff, gear lockout, rpm activation and more. I use the, all too.That’s a very nice jump and the torque that nitrous produces is just nasty. Damn itwhy you all do this to me. That nitrous hit is intoxicating. On an M6 I would go with a progressive shot though and definitely use a window switch. To avoid any manifold detonation/backfire or over revving with the juice on in case I miss a shift.
Thanks bro I started reading but I’m going to get with you off line. I just got the itch really bad lol.I’m with you, I’ve covered all those bases. My ProMax controller has so many safety features, TPS activation, low fuel pressure shutoff, high/low bottle pressure shutoff, gear lockout, rpm activation and more. I use the, all too.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/coming-soon-nitrous-install-on-my-fbo-2019-bullitt.151347/
You aren't running bigger injectors with the bap?You will jet the nitrous system with the appropriate jets for E85. A boost-a-pump is also a very good idea. Aside from that, I can confirm that the factory fuel system is adequate for a 150 shot.
When you tune for nitrous, your tuner will likely start you out on a 100 shot (this of course, is after your E85 tune has been dialed in). Once the tuner is satisfied with the logs from your 100 shot, he will give you the green light to proceed on to the 150 shot (jetting change required), check the logs and let you know when tuning is complete and you’re all ready to go.
Note: I recommend using E85 with an ethanol content of 85% or higher on nitrous, as an extra margin of safety. This will require actual testing, whether you buy it at the pump or by the pail. When I tuned mine, I ordered six 5 gal. pails and specifically used them for tuning the car on nitrous.
Nope, I’m still on the factory injectors.You aren't running bigger injectors with the bap?
Damn. I know it can handle it but surprised Lund tuned you on it. Good info!Nope, I’m still on the factory injectors.
Yes, it would. I couldn’t do this on mine because the space in my tire well was already occupied. If I hadn’t put stereo components back there, I would have gone that route.@NGOT8R
Question. Would a designated tank work better then a bap? That way you’re not restricted by stock fuel rail pressure especially when going with a bigger shot. You’d also have the choice of running C16.
Agreed. I would run E85 or the highest octane unleaded race fuel in the cell.Problem with C-16 is it is leaded. Unless a dedicated race car I wouldn't use it due to O2 sensor contamination.
In the small amounts that’s used with nitrous it does minimal damage to the O2 sensors. If you use it continuously over and over daily, going through the whole stand alone container, yes the O2s will foul out quickly. You can use it even with 91oct because it binds to N2O helping with stabilizing the burn of the oxygen found in nitrous. You can go like 3 months and not use a full 5 gallon container. If you have strong reservations, you can resort to VP109 and there shouldn’t be any issues at all.Problem with C-16 is it is leaded. Unless a dedicated race car I wouldn't use it due to O2 sensor contamination.