Autocross/daily driver questions

[TeeLew]

Using the bump rubber strickly as bottom-out control forces you to use a higher primary spring than you might want. Depending on the rate progression of the bump rubber, it's initial 1/2" or so of travel might be almost imperceptible.

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[BlackPlague]

I suppose it makes sense when you put it that way. But that really delves pretty deep into knowing exactly what you want, I would think. This would get into having custom compression rates wouldn't it? I haven't seen any of that kind of info for bumpstops, although I haven't done a ton of research. I could see pro racers getting into this, but it would involve some data collection.

 

[TeeLew]

You're not really wrong on any of that, but using a longer bump rubber which is softer and engaged ealier in the travel is less tricky/critical to work with than one which engages late and hard.

We can help you figure it out if you want some help.

 

[TeeLew]

I don't know the shaft diameter of your dampers, but these are a good option for an early engagement setup. https://www.penskeshocks.com/product/bump-rubber/ I'd look at the black version on the front and red or yellow on the back. Set the gaps so the max compression of the damper gives about 30-40mm total compression, then increase / decrease the air gap at static ride to tune the engagement point.

 

[BlackPlague]

I'm currently sitting stock, trying to decide what route I want to go. There's a ton of info from everyone and it's all swirling in my head

 

[TeeLew]

I'm currently sitting stock, trying to decide what route I want to go. There's a ton of info from everyone and it's all swirling in my head

Forget about car parts for a moment. Start out by very clearly defining exactly what you want to do. That always makes the path a little easier to find.

 

[BlackPlague]

UOTE="TeeLew, post: 3416916, member: 49696"]
Forget about car parts for a moment. Start out by very clearly defining exactly what you want to do. That always makes the path a little easier to find.
[/QUOTE]

I'm an avid autocrosser, I run in two different regions because I enjoy it so much. I'm upgrading to 305s on a dedicated set of wheels this next season so I'll be in cam-c. This car is also my daily when it's not winter, and I'll be running the stock PP1 wheels and ps4s otherwise, so I don't want to destroy the ride, but I want to upgrade the suspension to something that will improve the cornering. I expect a harsher ride, but adjustability is key so I can change the dynamic between AutoX and daily.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

something to keep in mind is nearly everything you do to “upgrade” your car will sacrifice daily drive comfort.

vorshlag plates are awesome, However eliminating that shock bushing puts a sound frequency into the chassis that is noticeable.

rt660 are an-awesome tire but 305s require two hands on the wheel when driving on imperfect pavement.

stock suspension rides great on the road. As you firm it up the car starts to get bouncy unless you’re on high dollar coil overs.

if I was just getting into things, I’d get a spare set of rotatable 305s, use crash bolts to dial in some camber, and some larger bump stomps to artificially increase spring rate/smooth transition to full bump.

Upgrade your brakes and then go tightening on the nut behind the wheel before doing anything else.

One additional note no one appears to have mentioned. Soft suspension teaches you valuable skills that may never be learned or learned at a slower (or costly) rate if starting on a grippy, stiff setup.

Smooth, intentional, and early inputs are required to wheel a soft suspension with lower grip. It forces you to look further down course. Soft suspension gives you more time to think about and input corrections when the car gets out of whack.soft suspension teachs you there’s more grip at the limit if you more slowly approach that limt through smooth inputs.

you’d be surprised how fast you can be even with the car rolled over on the bump stomps through corners

 

[kz]

Upgrade your brakes

? Why ?

 

[shogun32]

? Why ?

Autocross no. Road course yes

 

[kz]

I'm an avid autocrosser, I run in two different regions because I enjoy it so much. I'm upgrading to 305s on a dedicated set of wheels this next season so I'll be in cam-c. This car is also my daily when it's not winter, and I'll be running the stock PP1 wheels and ps4s otherwise, so I don't want to destroy the ride, but I want to upgrade the suspension to something that will improve the cornering. I expect a harsher ride, but adjustability is key so I can change the dynamic between AutoX and daily.

If you want a comparison you can ride/drive my car - I will try to make it up to Toledo if the dates align for one of the locals and for Pro/Tour if there are any but it's probably too late to make a choice. Mine currently is on Ford Performance M5300W springs and Magride - which unlike conventional dampers can have some impact on how you see the suspension (+ spherical bearings, rear subframe bushing lockouts) and in my personal opinion is completely daily driveable.
No rates published for 5300-W springs but they're supposed to be 250f/600-800ish rear (they're dual rate). Have Steeda's somewhere in the basement I bought from someone from the forum so likely will install them so you can try them out - little stiffer than FP ones.
If you're doing dampers, it makes sense to do camber plates and forget about bolts.

No reason to touch brakes for autocross unless you want to reduce weight. And sure as hell you don't want as undersprung car as stock is in autocross if you're already out of FS. It's frustrating to drive.

 

[Dana Pants]

And sure as hell you don't want as undersprung car as stock in in autocross if you're already out of FS. It's frustrating to drive.

Why do these things keep happening to me?

 

[shogun32]

Why do these things keep happening to me?

not enough weight up front I think. dragging the brake would probably help. You were leaning left and on the gas and then made a hard left turn with the wheel. There was insufficient weight on the right front wheel and it immediately gave up and you plowed straight. At the cone immediate preceeding I would have rolled off the power and give it a little brake and then feed left turn "way too soon" so the weight had time to shift before you needed to go left in earnest.

Also your arms seem excessively extended.

 

[TeeLew]

Why do these things keep happening to me?

You set your car up with quite a lot of oversteer. There are advantages to this when autocrossing, but as soon as the speeds come up or you really have to lean on the rear of the car, it becomes very difficult to pull off consistent laps.

 

[Dana Pants]

You set your car up with quite a lot of oversteer. There are advantages to this when autocrossing, but as soon as the speeds come up or you really have to lean on the rear of the car, it becomes very difficult to pull off consistent laps.

Technically, I’ve done track days and after a few laps the car gets pushy.

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