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FI Setup Plans (Traction & Supporting Mods)

w3ab1ak91

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Hey guys,

So I just wanted to share my plans for my 21' Mustang GT PP, which will be getting a VMP Odin supercharger installed (800HP range). I like to focus on the whole package, not just slap power on and hit go. With that being said here is a layout of my plans for supporting mods, feedback would be great, suggestions, etc.

Handling/Traction Mods

- Ford Performance Lowering Springs for Magneride (Currently have installed)
- Steeda Stop-the-Hop Ultimate package (Subframe bushing support system, subframe alignment kit, billet aluminum vertical links, subframe support braces(cradle), adjustable rear toe links
- Steeda Front Roll Center & Bumpsteer Correction Kit
- GForce Renegade Half Shafts
- Down-gearing to 3.31 gear set
- Project 6GR Seven Wheels (19x11 Rear & 19x10 Front)
- Indy Firehawk 500/Toyo R888R/Nitto NT05 Tires (Haven't made a tire choice yet) 315-325 Rear Tire / 285 Front Tire

Other Supporting Mods
- Upgraded twin disc clutch (McLeod/Exedy/etc) still need to choose something here
- Upgraded drive shaft (CF?)
- Oil/Air Separator (Are these really necessary? Never ran one on any of my cars)
- Steeda clutch spring and stainless clutch lines installed already
- Oil & Crank Gears (At time of supercharger install)

So there you have it, I believe I have all bases covered with strengthening parts that could break with the increased power and whatever I can do to get as much traction down as possible. Any suggestions/pointers are appreciated. And feel free to share your own forced induction builds!
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Temovic55

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Hey guys,

So I just wanted to share my plans for my 21' Mustang GT PP, which will be getting a VMP Odin supercharger installed (800HP range). I like to focus on the whole package, not just slap power on and hit go. With that being said here is a layout of my plans for supporting mods, feedback would be great, suggestions, etc.

Handling/Traction Mods

- Ford Performance Lowering Springs for Magneride (Currently have installed)
- Steeda Stop-the-Hop Ultimate package (Subframe bushing support system, subframe alignment kit, billet aluminum vertical links, subframe support braces(cradle), adjustable rear toe links
- Steeda Front Roll Center & Bumpsteer Correction Kit
- GForce Renegade Half Shafts
- Down-gearing to 3.31 gear set
- Project 6GR Seven Wheels (19x11 Rear & 19x10 Front)
- Indy Firehawk 500/Toyo R888R/Nitto NT05 Tires (Haven't made a tire choice yet) 315-325 Rear Tire / 285 Front Tire

Other Supporting Mods
- Upgraded twin disc clutch (McLeod/Exedy/etc) still need to choose something here
- Upgraded drive shaft (CF?)
- Oil/Air Separator (Are these really necessary? Never ran one on any of my cars)
- Steeda clutch spring and stainless clutch lines installed already
- Oil & Crank Gears (At time of supercharger install)

So there you have it, I believe I have all bases covered with strengthening parts that could break with the increased power and whatever I can do to get as much traction down as possible. Any suggestions/pointers are appreciated. And feel free to share your own forced induction builds!
Hi w3ab1ak91,
I will comment on the things I really know that helped or think they're recommended. So, please don't take my words for granted lol
Your goals looks a lot heading to drag racing / street mostly and not a DD. I got the same application just as a factory Roush II which comes with great suspensions. currently around 730 whp so I didn't add anything to the handling. Bought a pair of Toyo r888r but didn't put them on since the car is hooking up well so far with the factory tires.
I went with Mcleod RST with SS lines. MGW X-SPEC shifter, Oil separator, JLT for both sides ( passenger side is a must ) to keep the TB clean most of the time.
Yes, you should change the OPG's while the install ( I went with boundary ) check the O ring, Gaskets if needed ( I assume your car is still new ) so that might not be necessary.
Very important question, who's tuning the car ? leaning towards someone ?
wish u best of luck with your project,
 
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w3ab1ak91

w3ab1ak91

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Thanks for the reply. Yeah the car is still under 2k miles. I also have the MGW race spec shifter low profile (love that thing). And basically I want to have a car that can do good on a strip but mainly for the street. I also want it to be a fun car on road trips and such so I don't want the cornering to suffer too severely, hence why I'm not going for full drag radials.

DGR performance in PA is who will be doing the install/tune. They're super nice people and very knowledgeable. I hear a lot of good things from folks about them.

Your factory tires being a roush might be different, mine are the Pirelli all seasons and idk they spin stock lol.
 

Temovic55

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Sure mate, keep us posted and show some results.
I forgot to tell you that I did installed a water meth system ( AEM V3 ) which has helped maintain the temps.
Enjoy your ride!
 

andrewtac

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I went BMR instead of Steeda, booth work. If you do anything on diff bushings you will likely hear the rear end. I used the aluminum ones, and it is loud. Had the rear end rebuilt thinking it was out of spec. Still whines. My car is not a dd (fun car), I'd prefer no whine, but priority was not breaking crap so it whines. Good tires are a must.
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