Ronin Oil Drain Plug

[pilotgore]

Their hypothesis isn't far from my thoughts... The cap fits snug, but not tight. Once the car heats up, the metal on the cap expands and is more susceptible to loosening via vibration. Whether its a few hours at the track, or a few thousand miles on the street, it's the same failure mode. The real issue (IMHO) is that the cap doesn't "lock" in place.

Agreed.

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[HoosierDaddy]

I think mine is track related. The last time they replaced it, they hypothesized that maybe some oil from the oil change was still in the receiver plug, which was making the plug too slippery when reinstalled and would then come out with hours of vibration on track.

I'm getting the impression the Ronin cap doesn't screw on and include an o-ring at the base to create friction and tension like every other valve I'm aware of that uses a cap.

 

[Sivi70980]

I'm getting the impression the Ronin cap doesn't screw on and include an o-ring at the base to create friction and tension like every other valve I'm aware of that uses a cap.

My cap has an o ring and seals perfectly fine. Haven’t lost it yet.

 

[pilotgore]

My cap has an o ring and seals perfectly fine. Haven’t lost it yet.

Have you had it on track? Seems like 2 track days is the magic number for mine to fall off. I may order another one and safety wire it.

 

[Sivi70980]

Have you had it on track? Seems like 2 track days is the magic number for mine to fall off. I may order another one and safety wire it.

Nope. Just daily driven with occasional trips to Mexico. After changing the oil, the cap goes on nice and snug. I do agree that it would be a nice touch if it locked in place. I also like the safety wire idea.

 

[pilotgore]

Nope. Just daily driven with occasional trips to Mexico. After changing the oil, the cap goes on nice and snug. I do agree that it would be a nice touch if it locked in place. I also like the safety wire idea.

Here’s what customer service told me (which may be a good idea for others who aren’t tracking their cars regularly.)

“What seems to be possibly happening is that after an oil change, the threads on the black part installed on your Mustang (and also the gold cap, for extra measure) need to absolutely be entirely clean and free of any oil that may have been left behind. So after the oil change is done and prior to replacing the gold cap, please be sure the threads of the black portion and also the gold cap are entirely clean/dry/free of any oil residue. This can be done with a towel but then also a quick spray of brake cleaner or contact cleaner, or a similar solvent. Use it sparingly, but a small spritz should ensure the area is clear and good as new. Then replace the gold cap and ensure it is screwed in well and tight with the o-ring secure and compressed.”

Welp…. That didn’t work for me unfortunately.

 

[Sivi70980]

Here’s what customer service told me (which may be a good idea for others who aren’t tracking their cars regularly.)

“What seems to be possibly happening is that after an oil change, the threads on the black part installed on your Mustang (and also the gold cap, for extra measure) need to absolutely be entirely clean and free of any oil that may have been left behind. So after the oil change is done and prior to replacing the gold cap, please be sure the threads of the black portion and also the gold cap are entirely clean/dry/free of any oil residue. This can be done with a towel but then also a quick spray of brake cleaner or contact cleaner, or a similar solvent. Use it sparingly, but a small spritz should ensure the area is clear and good as new. Then replace the gold cap and ensure it is screwed in well and tight with the o-ring secure and compressed.”

Welp…. That didn’t work for me unfortunately.

I just use a shop rag to make sure threads are clean before replacing. I thought everyone was doing that already lol. Sorry it didn't work for you. I bet you had/have a ton of fun on a track though...

 

[Rapid Red]

Seems like OEM would be a lot less trouble, sometimes KISS is the best option.

 

[Sivi70980]

Seems like OEM would be a lot less trouble, sometimes KISS is the best option.

Per manual the drain plug ($10) is a single use item. Any valve type plug pays for itself in 5 or 6 oil changes. The valves are also much more controlled and make changing a TON easier. Valves also have magnetic ends to help pull contaminants to the bottom of the pan and drain them. And if we go further, over time (likely longer than the life of the car) the pan itself with wear from factory plugs being used. A valve stays in the pan so no wear at all. The design of the Ronin isn't compromised by missing the cap either.

 

[pilotgore]

I sent a note to Ronins customer service this morning and let them know what was going on. They’re going to send me another new replacement unit, free or charge. I can’t say enough good things about their customer service. This unit WILL be safety wired! I’ll post pics when installed.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I sent a note to Ronins customer service this morning and let them know what was going on. They’re going to send me another new replacement unit, free or charge. I can’t say enough good things about their customer service. This unit WILL be safety wired! I’ll post pics when installed.

While the Ronin design seems better on paper, if they really do lose caps, I'd rather use the Fumoto when available than have to safety wire the cap on a Ronin. With the Fumoto, no exposed threads that have a cap for protection and no cap to lose or safety wire. Can you safety wire the Ronin cap without breaching the interior and reducing the benefit of the cap being a 100% failsafe for a valve failure (admittedly unlikely)?

I stopped using Fumotos years ago in favor of Femco valves. Femcos have a threaded cap. Haven't heard of them ever losing caps. But they don't make a replacement for the plastic Ford drains.

 

[galaxy]

I've been using Fumoto valves on three different vehicles totaling something waaayy close to 200,000 miles. I have even lost the safety clips that go on the valves. Have never had a problem and will be going this route again!

 

[Postal Bob]

Per manual the drain plug ($10) is a single use item.

Just curious, where in the manual does it say that? Though I've heard it should be replaced after a few oil changes.

 

[galaxy]

It doesn’t even make logical sense why this would be a single use item. It’s not even what I’d call “cheap insurance”. There’s nothing there to wear out. It cam locks into place. Sure, you might, maybe, could argue the o rings may eventually start to seep or something like that, but the plugs not going anywhere.

 

[Hoofer]

I installed the Ronin on my '20 GT PP1 early last year at the first oil change ~1,000 miles.
I love it. Best $80 I spent. I also don't track my car. In fact, I haven't even washed it yet - lol.

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