Robottrainer
Well-Known Member
Quickjack. Use the rubber pucks with the notch in them that fits over the pinch weld. Get the car up at least 2 feet in the air
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br_an
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puttin' that Idaho-ingenuity on display
HoosierDaddy
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Everything is a compromise.
Couldn't pay me to use only a scissor lift. If I can't walk under it, I want open floor beneath the vehicle. Others may have different width vehicles and don't want such wide lift surfaces to make that possible.
Using jack stands is more work and time. I'm industrial grade lazy. Never cared for running back and forth between sides to lift in stages or making sure the jack's wheels don't drop into a seam between concrete pads or using muscles to lift any of my vehicles. I just leave the QuickJack on the floor and park over it. To lift, just pull the sides under the lift points of the particular vehicle and snap the hoses on.
Passed on 2 posts because I didn't want them in the way for permanent mount or moving/bolting them each time if they were portable. Might feel different if I lifted vehicles all the time and had a high enough ceiling to walk under without ducking.
For my use, came down to QuickJack or a 4 post. But my dream of a future 10' wide car made that choice for me.
The reason there are so many options is that there are different use scenarios that each one works best for.
Michael_vroomvroom
Well-Known Member
I think the design of that USD 2,000+ lift looks rather inconvenient. I'm guessing it's high enough to fit under while sitting on a low "under the car" roller, and maybe I'm missing something, but looks like one would have a hard time rolling back and forth between the pillars while under the car, and it's still too low to walk under there.
The quickjack design seems much more usable for working under the car, but it's low, so one has to lay on the back. Either option is too expensive for me though.
As I've grown to start doing more than just oil changes/brake pads on my car, I've now invested in some better axle stands, and also a better jack. When I ordered my first jack, I did not know "low profile" was a thing, so my first jack, though good quality, was always a bit of a hassle to get under the Mustang. Unpacked it all yesterday:
Jack jacks up to 62 cm (higher than quickjack, which tops out at around 50cm), and stands go up to a matching 63 cm, so should make things a bit more comfortable and safe under there than before.
Min height for the new axle stands is rather high at 40 cm however, so perhaps I'll keep still have use for my older smaller and lower quality stands for the more frequent trackday race pad/OEM pad swaps where I just need to get the tires of the ground. If so, at least they will be less of a waste of money, while I guess I'll try to sell the jack.
Nowhere as convenient as using the quick jack I imagine though, so for those with enough money ...
Fly2High
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I think the design of that USD 2,000+ lift looks rather inconvenient. I'm guessing it's high enough to fit under while sitting on a low "under the car" roller, and maybe I'm missing something, but looks like one would have a hard time rolling back and forth between the pillars while under the car, and it's still too low to walk under there.
The quickjack design seems much more usable for working under the car, but it's low, so one has to lay on the back. Either option is too expensive for me though.
As I've grown to start doing more than just oil changes/brake pads on my car, I've now invested in some better axle stands, and also a better jack. When I ordered my first jack, I did not know "low profile" was a thing, so my first jack, though good quality, was always a bit of a hassle to get under the Mustang. Unpacked it all yesterday:
Jack jacks up to 62 cm (higher than quickjack, which tops out at around 50cm), and stands go up to a matching 63 cm, so should make things a bit more comfortable and safe under there than before.
Min height for the new axle stands is rather high at 40 cm however, so perhaps I'll keep still have use for my older smaller and lower quality stands for the more frequent trackday race pad/OEM pad swaps where I just need to get the tires of the ground. If so, at least they will be less of a waste of money, while I guess I'll try to sell the jack.
Nowhere as convenient as using the quick jack I imagine though, so for those with enough money ...
Really nice driveway!! Hope you put down some plywood under those stands and jacks.
From my thinking, I would suspect that you really cannot use the top stand position unless you put something under your jack. The jack needs to go higher than the stand to be able to lift it off the stand and to remove the stands so you might lose a cm, give or take, going down a notch on the stand. They are rather impressive in height. At the same time, nothing prevents you from driving up a board or two and putting something under the full length of the Quick Jack to get more height.
For me, my 3 ton, low profile, Harbour Freight Pittsburg Jack (62326) can go from 2 7/8" up to 19.5" (7.3 cm to 49.5 cm) so the Quick Jack would be an improvement if I used both 2" and 3" blocks together (21") but not much. Looking back, I probably should have gone with a regular jack since the Mustang is not as low as I thought and even adding a block on top of the jack for the pinch weld, it still needs some pumping to make contact.
When I jack up my wife's SUV, I place the jack on a length of 2 x 12 and gain the extra 1.5" of height. On her car, with the higher lift positions off the floor and the longer suspension throw, I need all the height I can get. OF course, if it we me, I would never own an SUV but that is another topic.
So far, I have never jacked any of my cars up to the max height of the stands. Have not had any repair that needed me to.
With adapters and different blocks, the Quick Jacks go up to :
500SLX
Lifting height
C - Frame only: 17.5" (445 mm)
D - With 2" block: 18" (457 mm)
E - With 3" block: 19" (483 mm)
F - Max. height: 21" (533 mm)
G - With adapters: 21" (533 mm)
H - With adapters + pin: 23.75" (603 mm)
Not sure how the pinch weld block fits into all this.
The height the quick jack can attain is something to take into consideration as well.
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Fly2High
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For kicks and giggles, how high would I need to get the Mustang GT in order to remove the tranny and say do a clutch job or install a shifter kit?
Michael_vroomvroom
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I glued some cardboard under the older jacks, which seems to have been enough to protect the floor so far, but will perhaps try to find something better this time around.
Yeah, that is true. But finding really high axle stands was not so easy, unless I want the minimum height to be really high too (and expensive), which creates another problem. These were the best match I could find. In any case, at the very top position, an axle stand insert feels a bit wobbly before you put weight on, so going down a notch from max is perhaps preferable anyway.
Then you had better luck with your jack than I. I can only fit the regular jack under my non-lowered car at some places (I have the jacking rails fortunately). I've read magneride cars are a bit lower than non-magneride cars, so perhaps it's due to that.
Michael_vroomvroom
Well-Known Member
I've seen people here report installing the MGW shifter on stands at least, and that's what I'm going to be doing in the future. Had the MGW shifter for a month already, but not yet sure when I will install it.
Taking the the transmission out completely I'm not sure about. Also curious, though I doubt I'll ever feel competent enough to do that myself.
Mambruh
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Just be prepared for that big shop bill. I had my Barton shifter installed and it quite a bit. I have mine trans mounted as well.
Norm Peterson
corner barstool sitter
Swapping shifters isn't that bad of a job on jackstands. I forget how high up I set my stands, except that it wasn't all the way up. That was an MGW into an early S197, but I can't see the job needing any more height for an S550.
In most FE-RWD and FWD cars, jackstands can provide enough height to remove & replace the transmission, at least if the transmission can be separated from the bellhousing. The bellhousing and the clutch components and the flywheel don't need nearly as much lift height.
Norm
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ALLSTOCK
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I got a daytona jack at harbor freight, and two Torin stands.
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-low-profile-super-duty-rapid-pump-floor-jack-yellow-63183.html
https://www.amazon.com/Torin-Big-Al...=1&keywords=jack+stand&qid=1619800765&sr=8-12
Apparently there was a law suit or something a while back between daytona and snapon.
TLDR: bla bla something something daytona jacks are basically the same as the super expensive snapon branded ones
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-low-profile-super-duty-rapid-pump-floor-jack-yellow-63183.html
https://www.amazon.com/Torin-Big-Al...=1&keywords=jack+stand&qid=1619800765&sr=8-12
Apparently there was a law suit or something a while back between daytona and snapon.
TLDR: bla bla something something daytona jacks are basically the same as the super expensive snapon branded ones
Fly2High
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The last time I was involved with tranny work and a clutch was with my father doing both to a RX-7 and a Celica. Of course my father has a bit of weight on him so we had to jack the car up really high for him to fit under either car. But compared to the Mustang, those trannies are tiny and in both cases the cars were old and the trannies needed rebuilding anyway.
Norm Peterson
corner barstool sitter
You're right, little stuff.
1964 Dodge (aluminum-case Torqueflite for a V8)
'72 Pinto (yeah, another toy transmission even the one behind the V6 I eventually swapped in).
'79 Malibu V8 (3? clutch jobs, two coming at transmission swap times)
'87 Maxima (twice for internal transaxle repair).
Norm
Fly2High
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Norm,
I always know where you are coming from and respect and appreciate your wisdom.
The one question I have to ask, are you hard on cars or are they all just junk?
I think the list speaks for itself.
I thought I was bad with my '86 Daytona. In one summer, they put in 4 trannies and rebuilt 3 of them over a two month period. Then again, I only brought it in for the first rebuild. They did not give me back the car until all that had transpired while at the dealership. Outside of that, I think the tranny got rebuilt 2 other times and the clutch was changed 3 times over the 90K miles I had it. The car was a test car with a mandatory 7/70 warranty so I did not need to get involved. If I recall, there was an alignment issue with the tranny and the engine or something that caused the clutch to chatter when engaged like crazy. Also had a bad design on one of the shafts where the bearing rode on the shaft with no inner race. The shaft would wear and eventually wobble. Was also the last Dodge I would ever buy. No other car since ever needed tranny work, not even a clutch but then it was a Maxima and a TC.
Norm Peterson
corner barstool sitter
Well, it goes like this:Norm,
I always know where you are coming from and respect and appreciate your wisdom.
The one question I have to ask, are you hard on cars or are they all just junk?
I think the list speaks for itself.
I've always driven with a healthy dose of . . . well, let's call it 'sports-car enthusiasm' and leave it at that.
The Dodge was a hand-me-down car from my parents, who'd given me pretty much unlimited use of it while I was in school and dating. Its failure was a broken low-reverse band (a common failure for those transmissions), which cost me the use of reverse (the car remained fully drivable going forward). Apartment complex parking lot tranny swap. I even did a little suspension tuning on the Dodge and treated it to much better rubber than it came with originally.
I did one clutch job on the Pinto when I built up its 2.0L engine, mainly because everything was apart. And the other as part of a four to V6 powertrain swap. FWIW, the Pinto was a sport-sedan project car from the get-go.
The Malibu was another car with project intentions. Turned out, the OE Saginaw wasn't a strong enough transmission for the 350 I swapped in, and the T-10 that replaced it wasn't what I wanted when I went to a stouter build on a different 350 and wanted an overdrive gear (because of 3.73 gears). Along the way, my son managed to kill one of the 350s (dropped a valve and hydraulic'ed a couple of cylinders).
Near as I can figure, either the bellhousing or the rear face of the block on the 1987 Maxima wasn't drilled accurately enough. About every 50,000 miles the input shaft bearing would disassemble itself. Nissan did the first repair, but after getting past the shock of their pricing I did the next two - combined - for less money. Other than that it was a fun car to drive, and big enough for the family. Like the Pinto and the Chevy, we got about 175,000 miles out of it.
Sorry for the long off-topic, but to (try to) drag it back I never used more than a floor jack and jackstands for any of those jobs. I used to be able to bench-press the trannys back in, but those days are two decades and change in the past. I did get a real tranny jack for an eventual Magnum XL swap into the Mustang. That in itself might call for a little extra lift height, but I'll figure out a way to deal with it somehow if it does.
Norm
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